JakeW Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Started out with a soundoffaudio passenger side box and a Power Acoustik 10”.... couldn’t pass up the deal on this fox acoustics driver side sealed 12” box! Upgraded + alt to batt +, battery - to body, fuse box + to battery +. There is also a ground below the box, which bolts straight though to the frame, due to my switching sides back and forth with installs lol. So the install now- stinger 1/0 OFC, taramps smart 3, which is a beast! Aux shuriken battery, fox acoustics sealed .95cf box, net audio pac LOC which plugs into the stock subwoofer plug, and a lvl 2 dc 12”, has a 3/4” raiser ring in anticipation for lvl 4, while I wait another 7 days for the lvl 4 with custom dust cap!! My first system I’ve ever installed myself. ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Whatever the diameter of that pole vent on the bottom of the magnet of that subwoofer you are getting, it has to be AT LEAST that far from the wall it’s facing. So make sure that spacer is thick enough. The mounting depth of that subwoofer you are getting is 6.75” and the pole vent appears to have a diameter of about 1.5”-2”. So do some measuring when you get that subwoofer and then make sure it’s done correctly because if it’s too close then the subwoofer won’t have enough breathing room and not be that loud and get hot while doing so and eventually give out even on rms less than rated. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Copy! Something I think I understand but makes absolute sense. The box without spacer allows for 7” depth. Spacer is 3/4” with another layer of a foam sealer which I’d say is maybe 1/4”. With that considering, would pulling the poly fill from directly underneath the driver be a good idea? ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Take the poly fill out of that enclosure and never put it back in and add another .75” spacer to equal a total of 1.5” if the pole vent is 1.5” in diameter. But if the pole vent has a diameter of 2” then you would have to use 3 .75” spacers. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Copy. Will pull out the poly fill! And will verify the vents, one of the lead builders at the shop I use knows rusty @ DC personally so he should be of much help As are you! Thanks ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Unfortunately the depth in the rear under seat area is what’s limiting me on the size of the sub I can run. (Which you already know) but aside from lvl 4 dc, I really don’t know what else I can do. Aside from upgrading to 2 12s ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 6 minutes ago, JakeW said: Unfortunately the depth in the rear under seat area is what’s limiting me on the size of the sub I can run. (Which you already know) but aside from lvl 4 dc, I really don’t know what else I can do. Aside from upgrading to 2 12s It's not for everyone, but you can always do a blow through from the bed 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 For future reference once you catch the bass itch, If not a blow through, I would take out the back seats and make a wall. Subwoofer walls are easier to do correctly for optimal bandwidth and peaks. For now, just get another 12” dc lvl 2 and get a custom enclosure made and get a port on the side of the enclosure on the drivers side blowing towards the door and be done with it. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 11 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said: For future reference once you catch the bass itch, If not a blow through, I would take out the back seats and make a wall. Subwoofer walls are easier to do correctly for optimal bandwidth and peaks. For now, just get another 12” dc lvl 2 and get a custom enclosure made and get a port on the side of the enclosure on the drivers side blowing towards the door and be done with it. Trust me I’ve got it! But that’s a big commitment! Was actually considering pulling the 40 seat, and building something to house 3 12s ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 As the box sits, I have just over 10” of mounting depth not counting compression of foam as sub gets tightened down. Sub lip to bottom of driver is 6-1/8”. Pole vent in driver is 1-1/2” on this level 2. I hope that’s sufficient! ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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