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A Bunch Of Boxes I Made Wrong For Your Critical Pleasure


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6 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

It states on the title of this thread, free designs, and now you are charging people money. And when a subwoofer enclosure’s port(s) has more than one bend then it shouldn’t wrap around the subwoofer and line the inner walls of the enclosure. That decreases output a bunch. So let me understand this correctly. A guy who just learned the difference between net volume and gross volume and then thinks it’s ok to wrap a port around the inside of an enclosure is selling enclosure designs on a world renown car audio forum?

 

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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build

 

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  • LT.Smoke changed the title to A Bunch Of Boxes I Made Wrong For Your Critical Pleasure
  • LT.Smoke featured and unfeatured this topic

Welp, the box I just made certainly works. Not really sure why you guys are so mad about all of this. There were free designs in this thread, I plan on posting more up on my YouTube channel, and the ones I've made and sold have all worked fine. I don't have anyone complaining back to me about my designs. I definitely never said they were absolutely perfect, and I also never said anyone on this forum had to pay me for the design. If the S10 dude wanted a design from me, I'd just give it to him, but I'd also put it on eBay. I don't see how there's a problem with getting something for my work. I also don't see exactly why you are THIS critical. Why is it you didn't say anything about the port before I built the box? Should I have wrapped it back in so the internal opening of the port is behind the subwoofer? Should I really care about having too many port corners? Why? I doubt it's restrictive at all. It's a 100 sq. inch port on a 12". I also see people do transmission lines with way more corners. Should I really be concerned? The box turned out well, IMO, and everywhere else I've posted it people are very positive about it.

 

The guy I sold cut sheets to came to me for them and didn't ask for more. I also gave him a video on how to assemble it. He built it and told me it does what he wanted, he's happy. The designs I sell on eBay have written instructions, video, cut sheets, and the CAD files for $5. That's not bad, and the people buying them can always decide whether they want it or not. I'm not forcing anyone to do anything.

 

So, anyway, more box designs on the way. Despite your criticism, the boxes I've built still work, make the bass I was looking for, and for sure are not perfect. I know.

 

Y'all want to be salty, be salty I guess!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

9.95 cu. ft. box for four 12 inch kickers tuned to 33Hz. Not sure what the basket displacement but guessing about 9.5 cu. ft. and 34 ish Hz tuning after displacement.

 

The guy has his speakers in a 1.6 cu. ft./sub (before desplacement) 33Hz tuned prefab that I really don't like... this should get him going :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

But, just because you can, doesn't mean you should!  Different woods have different "rings" or resonant frequencies.  Hexibase did an amazing videos showing the dampening effects of many different woods, and plastics (3d printed enclosures).  Of these, mahogany actually had the best dampening effects, making it great for subwoofer enclosures.  And to no surprise, Pine did the worst by far, only outdone by one of the plastics.  And you argue about your port area being an effective means to combat the fact that your port wraps around the subwoofer.  However, if you simply decrease the port area to something smaller, and more in spec with what the sub actually needs, then you wouldn't need such a long port.  These small details, along with many others may not make a large or even noticeable different by themselves...but when you put them all together it really makes a HUGE difference in the overall quality.  Its kind of on the same level as when an installer uses butt connectors and zip ties, or actual soldering, wire loom, and cloth tape.  Sure, that one butt connector may not make any difference, but over the course of the entire installation, the more expensive and time consuming option gives ten times better results.  In the install case, its visual.  However, in your box designs, its literally performance.  But, considering you are making boxes out of "cheap plywood" I'm assuming you are years away from learning these things.  Keep at it. Just don't charge people for your work.  I've been doing this for years, and have a degree in electrical engineering, and I still invite people over so I can hook their shit up to my equipment for free of charge.

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I'll have some videos on that box again inside a vehicle later. It was working pretty well IMO, and it's a neat box. More of an experiment than anything. I did hook it up to the same amp I had in the basement briefly inside of my truck then the amp blew out a couple of mosfets so I ordered new mosfets. I had the gain cranked to 100% without noticing, and it's only 4 ohm stable so. lol. It blowed up. Maybe that amp will be working in the future, either that or I'll get my JL amp fixed.

 

Today I put a couple chinese chip amps in my truck for a pair of 6.5 woofers and 5 1/4 coaxials and finished welding up the mount for the big stupid big port box.

 

I'm aware that different woods have different acoustic effects concerning dampening. I watched this video recently and I also watched that Hexibase video you're talking about. That dude has a lot of cool videos on his channel. In this video he says that he built his so-called "World's Second Best Speakers" enclosure from the cheapest plywood AKA the same stuff I used here. I think it's not so bad. This dude also blasts MDF as a "superior" box material too which I found funny.

 

I'm not sure if I argued that the port area negated the effect of wrapping my port all the way around. That was a mistake I guess since I mostly just wanted to try out making a box with a really big port nearly the same area as the cone. What I was trying to convey was that with the size of the port and that I tuned it low at 26Hz it ended up being substantially different than how I expected and then I had to think about that particularly since I put the port right up to the baffle. The port is long enough and big enough that it could be a 42 or 43Hz 1/4 wave if there was no chamber... but there's a big chamber. Some way or another, I've ended up with a box that seems to be tuned lower than I expected and also plays lower than I expected. I can play under 10Hz with this thing while still making enough pressure to feel it quite a lot in the floor on the next level up, rattle windows, etc. The point of that box wasn't exactly to make a box that was within the spec of the woofer, or that was perfectly within the "rules" of box building. I built it simply with the goal of getting extremely low, experimenting with a larger than normal/"appropriate" size port. It was somewhat inspired by Dayton Audio's Ultimax 12 recommended box which is 4 cubic feet tuned at 20Hz. Also inspired by their Ultimax 18 inch woofer which has recommended boxes ranging from 4 cubes to like 15 cubes I think :P so I figured it was worse a shot

 

Anyway, thanks for the comments. Just got a new job so I'm going to keep building halfway sensical nonsense.

 

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Also I just want to make a little note that, for my area, I seem to be better than other installers/builders simply for not being a scammer. The last guy that came through for that box had someone else helping him out before and they kind of seemed to take advantage of him. He had 4 of those Boss Phantom 1150 Watt subs not knowing they weren't rated accurately, same with his Hifonics amp. Who ever set up his radio also had a high pass set to like 80 Hz on his subwoofer out which I couldn't figure out for a little while since I wasn't familiar with the radio. Then he also had one of those "Epicenter" audio filter things on it which I really couldn't figure out what it did and seemed like a gimmick. Ended up bypassing it while trying to figure things out and it seemed better without it. Then, after all of that, he had prefab boxes made from 5/8 MDF that were too small for the subwoofers he was originally intending on using. He had me build the box for Kicker CVX 12's, then he came back and said that two were on back order so he had me put in the Boss subs for the time being. Kinda hate those subs for existing since he could have gotten way better subs for the $81 they cost like some Skars or the GW-124 at Wal-Mart that I use. The Duals and Jensens there probably take a comparable amount of power as the Boss subs. It was getting down with them after messing around for quite a while though.

 

I really don't know who hooked him up before. Wiring was nice, but everything seemed to be set really weird and nobody told him his amp and the Boss subs don't do rated. I looked into what that "Epicenter" thing is and I don't think it should be in anyone's set up. I don't know what the hell it does and their description on their website made it sound like a huge gimmick. I'll post a screen cap of it.

big giant bass thing.png

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  • 1 month later...

We got the Epicenter figured out and I learned more about it. It actually works for what it's for, just hard to get a bearing on exactly what it does which is annoying for me. Oh well.

 

Two more boxes for your bass wumpers to burr some womps or something.

 

Single 18" 7 cubes, 34Hz. Fits in older Ford Explorers. The early 2000's ones.

 

https://youtu.be/DXxOXha7Hgc

 

Quad Kicker 12" box... or any other 12" subs that it's right for. 9.95 cu. ft. 33Hz. Fits older Escalade.

 

https://youtu.be/o88oK5NN7Tk

 

My GW-124 in my truck and yes it is extremely sloppy, no I do not care.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4edvSXAU9Y

 

 

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