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recently just purchased 2 of the Skar  EV-L 12 2500W subs. I'm not getting the performance I was expecting out of them, any recommendations on what the optimal amp would be to run 2 of these 12 inch subs? I have a 3000w amp in it currently but the rms on the amp is less than 1000 at 2 ohms, anything would help, im trying to have these speakers hit super hard without damaging the speakers

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First, those are not 2500 watt subs. They are 1250 watt subs. Tuned correctly and in the correct enclosure, you could put 1500-1700 watts to them and be fine.

What amp are you running? Any upgrades to your electrical system? Do you have the dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm? Do you know the specs of your enclosure? What kind of vehicle are they in? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

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11 hours ago, Tilley96 said:

I am running a power acoustik re1.3000 class D Mono Block 2 ohm amp. The electrical system car was is stock (ex. alternator, battery, ect) but system wise, im running 0 Guage wire with a 200a fuse with 4 Guage ground wire. The subs are the 2ohm version. If I'm correct I believe the encloser is 38x14x20 with a 3" port on both sides. I currently drive a 2014 Honda accord. The speakers are in the trunk

 

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Well dude, I hate to be negative, but you're not getting even 1000 watts total out of that power acoustics amp. Even if you beef up your electrical. 

We just had this same exact problem with another member. Same subs, same amp.  He beefed up his electrical, did the big 3, bought a Taramps smart 3 amplifier, and now he's blowing eardrums. 

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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@Anthony10111upgraded his electrical system and got a Taramps Smart 3 and loves it last I heard. We went back and forth with him about his power acoustics amp. When he finally caved and bought a Smart 3, he couldn't believe the difference. But you can't run that amp on stock electrical. No amp that would power those subs properly will run off stock electrical. 

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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I got an extra battery and the big 3 now... I cant get all my power without clipping but that should fix when my alternator that's on the way gets here... But I am f**kin slamming ... Them power acoustics are junk.. I'm going by experience.. I hate to bash them cuz I really thought they were good ... But nope.. junk.. unfortunately lol... and yeah My taramps smart 3 slams but it might not be enough for a bass head lol.. My suburban is HARD to get banging..  I got my ears moving n shit.. I can only imagine what a smaller airspace and my same setup would be like.. So maybe it is enough?.. not sure lol

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13 hours ago, Anthony10111 said:

I got an extra battery and the big 3 now... I cant get all my power without clipping but that should fix when my alternator that's on the way gets here... But I am f**kin slamming ... Them power acoustics are junk.. I'm going by experience.. I hate to bash them cuz I really thought they were good ... But nope.. junk.. unfortunately lol... and yeah My taramps smart 3 slams but it might not be enough for a bass head lol.. My suburban is HARD to get banging..  I got my ears moving n shit.. I can only imagine what a smaller airspace and my same setup would be like.. So maybe it is enough?.. not sure lol

Remember- clipping is in reference to the signal from the head unit not lack of power. But yes, you need amps to make amps!

‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18.  Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. 

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  • 2 months later...

Make sure the gauge of your ground wire matches your power lead.  You mention 1/0 coming from the engine bay and 4 gauge for the ground.  Probably not an issue with your current amp as it's power requirements are lower, but if you move to something like the Taramps 3k, you will want at least 1/0 for power and ground, and you many want to consider a double run for both power and ground.

 

As for clip mentioned previously in the post, low/sagging voltage can drive an amplifier into clipping, especially when the system voltage drops significantly lower than the voltage it was tuned at.  As an example, if you tuned your amp with the electrical system managing to maintain 13.8-14.1ish volts, but while playing the system your voltage drops to 12.4 or lower, the amp will almost certainly be driven into clipping.  It has to do with the power supply voltage (a square wave supply in a class D amplifier for example) sagging lower than what the output side (an analog signal) of the amp is trying to deliver causing the peaks and valleys of the audio signal to "clip" looking like the tops and bottoms of the square wave rather than clean analog peaks and valleys.

 

So like Dafaseles and Anthony mentioned, moving to something like the Taramps (or any other 2500-3k RMS amplifier) you will want to prioritize a high output alternator as soon as your budget permits.  Just try and remember - batteries and caps store power, your alternator is what actually generates power.  You may be able to store up some power in the batteries, but your voltage will sag and you will exhaust them and have to turn everything down while they recover/recharge until you have the alternator(s) that can keep up.

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