Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Need help purchasing an aero port


jessdabest77

Recommended Posts

Posted

How’s everyone doing out there. Been gone for a little minute but now things looking better so ready to finish my build. I have a 2002 Chevy S10 Xtreme extended cab truck. My equipment I do have right now is a 270 amp Singer high output alternator, two FI Sp4 v1 dual 2 15’s, two SQ 3500 amps, CT Sounds 125.4 amp, and a bunch of Second Skin sound deadner.  My plan is to build a loud and low daily driver. I want to build a ported box for the subs behind the seat’s. Because of space I want to use an areo port but can not find a 10 or 12 inch flared ports anywhere. I’m hoping you guys can help me where I can buy those ports and any suggestions on my build. Any ideas on what stereo to use, power, RCA’s, and speaker wires, mids and high’s,and even the box build. I know I’m asking for much and I really would appreciate any help because this build is so important to me because eventually I’m going to give this truck to my grandson. So it’s a family project and hopefully with your guys help I can make this happen. 

D9A0F51F-BAA6-4324-B6BA-394608CD39C2.jpeg

FDF6450A-B221-4A0D-B62E-1CE210CDAF3E.jpeg

25D9AC66-4051-4D46-82B1-D9A09374989B.jpeg

Posted

best way if you are set on a port of that size is make the out of wood whether it be an octo port or round port . get your self a router , a circle jig and a couple sheets of MDF , some wood glue and brad nailer and have at it ... for a 10'' port , GP car audio sells a 10'' octo port https://gpcaraudio.com/gp-10-diy-stack-fab-octa-port/

Posted

Based on the space you gave last time you would need a 12" port to reach the port area needed, imagine the size of the flare if it was available.

 

You could try using two 8" professionally flared ports, it would be tight airspeed wise but it could work, subs forward ports up.

Posted

Flared aeros are superior to similar sized slot ports BUT in your case you are using two and using two is less efficient than one, then there's the port area, two 8" aeros have about 100 square inches of port area out of the 130 or so needed. This is why it's not as easy to predict an easy win for aeros in your case.

Posted

Thank you Joe X I’m going to build it using an areo port. Wish there was at least a 10” available but I’m honestly thinking of doing a single 8” areo and see what it does. Any ideas on port and subs placement ( up, down,side)?

Posted

In those vehicles usually you do subs up or forward, port(s) up or sideways, really depending on the size and the form factor of the box. In some cases firing up results in rear window rattling so firing elsewhere saves you from dealing with that rattling.

Posted

Wow I never had considered the back window. It makes lots of sense if the subs face up that the back window will vibrate bad. I wonder if it’s worth doing that or if facing subs forward will lose output?

Posted

Every vehicle is different but firing forward doesn't necessarily mean you lose output, I mean walls and blowthroughs do exactly that, If I had to work with aeros I would do one 8" each side facing up (away from the center window), subs facing forward BUT you know there's always the guy that owns the exact same truck and is a successful competitor from whom you can get the best possible advise.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 760 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...