New System

[Bryan]

wat other subs hav 5000rms?

wats louder - 18" audiopulse lms or 2 12' btls/hdc3s

dude please stop asking what sub(s) is louder..no one knows and there are wayyyyyyyyy too many variables to take account.

[Lynbo]

k i will get my alt checked out, u think itd cost much? and do u hav any idea how much a alt upgrade would be? or does it depend.. and how big of one i'd need to fully power 4400rms?

im pretty sure the crossover is built in. but im not sure wat that is. my friend helped with the install. i know we ran a wire from the amp to the deck, which is attached to the stock system and stock amp.

how would takein out the rear speakers make it louder? those bigger speakers put out alot themselves..

so for the rear firing i'd want the face of the subs and the ports facing away from the interior of the car. how would it make a difference if they subs pointed up? towards the interior?

so impedance is the minimal load it can handle? yea i need to find out alot more info b4 install, but my friends also hav more experience and r helpn me.

yea i am gettin a new deck for all this now and i plan on soon gettin a couple 4 channels for all the speakers (6 tweeters, 2 5x5, 2 6x8?) but for now i hav plenty of treble.

for my box now, could i just make some ports in the existing box for the time being? becaus i dont want to build a whole new box for them when im guna take them out soon

thanks for all the help

No problem just sharing something’s I have picked up here and there.

Here in nor cal I have gone to kragen auto parts and the charging system test was free of charge so ask you local auto parts store if they can do this test and what is the cost for this test.

Upgrade alternator very in price you maybe able to get some examples by looking on e-bay your car model maybe in the line up with pricing. With a single alternator upgrade try in the 180 – 240 amp range just because you want to make sure you have a decent output from your alternator at idle speed.

Taking out the rear speakers will allow for a pathway from your trunk to the interior of your car. Here is a bad example hopefully this helps, you place a large fan in the trunk of your car running at the highest speed possible. Where is the airflow going to go once the fan is up to speed, out of any gaps and cracks it can find as the trunk will become pressurized and will look for a way out of your trunk. If you open you trunk you would probable feel some air pressure right away. If you removed you speakers from your rear deck do you think some of that airflow or pressure will begin to pass through the open holes into your interior of your car? Remember regardless of the subs you decide on using you will be creating a pressure in your trunk some of it will find away into your car and outside as well. Your trunk lid is going to go crazy with some of the power levels and subs you are talking about using. An easy test by removing your rear speakers to relieve some of that pressure from your trunk. If it does not work out you can always replace them, another thing about the speakers in your rear deck these speakers will be affect by some of the pressure created by your subs as they share the same air space into the trunk so they may sound different after you upgrade your subs.

Sub mounting direction has been matter of testing to find out what works best in your application there are few threads on trunk mounted subs and other members have shared there findings and offered there best findings by the way it sounds as well as being tested on a TL mic.

Impendence is a standard measurement of the speaker much like watts (rms & max) is a standard measurement of an amplifier. So in your design you need to match your final sub speaker load (Impendence) to the amplifier output design load (speaker impedance).

Would not advise just to add some ports to your existing box as in sealed applications vs. ported applications for the same subwoofer. Ported in most cases require more internal air space and sometimes the manufacture specs out the net internal volume and does not include the subwoofer physical displacement nor the port displacement so these need to be added to the total interior air space calculations.

You talked about your next box would be approx 6.5 cu. Ft. was this calculated as your external or internal air space? And are you remembering to include your subwoofer displacement and port displacement (round or square ports).

Sorry I got long winded again I guess the rockstars are still flowing after getting off of work.

[bmwkingaudio]

dude please stop asking what sub(s) is louder..no one knows and there are wayyyyyyyyy too many variables to take account.

i wasnt wondering exactly. i just meant like one sub versus two. in like 6 cu ft box.

[bmwkingaudio]

No problem just sharing something’s I have picked up here and there.

Here in nor cal I have gone to kragen auto parts and the charging system test was free of charge so ask you local auto parts store if they can do this test and what is the cost for this test.

Upgrade alternator very in price you maybe able to get some examples by looking on e-bay your car model maybe in the line up with pricing. With a single alternator upgrade try in the 180 – 240 amp range just because you want to make sure you have a decent output from your alternator at idle speed.

Taking out the rear speakers will allow for a pathway from your trunk to the interior of your car. Here is a bad example hopefully this helps, you place a large fan in the trunk of your car running at the highest speed possible. Where is the airflow going to go once the fan is up to speed, out of any gaps and cracks it can find as the trunk will become pressurized and will look for a way out of your trunk. If you open you trunk you would probable feel some air pressure right away. If you removed you speakers from your rear deck do you think some of that airflow or pressure will begin to pass through the open holes into your interior of your car? Remember regardless of the subs you decide on using you will be creating a pressure in your trunk some of it will find away into your car and outside as well. Your trunk lid is going to go crazy with some of the power levels and subs you are talking about using. An easy test by removing your rear speakers to relieve some of that pressure from your trunk. If it does not work out you can always replace them, another thing about the speakers in your rear deck these speakers will be affect by some of the pressure created by your subs as they share the same air space into the trunk so they may sound different after you upgrade your subs.

Sub mounting direction has been matter of testing to find out what works best in your application there are few threads on trunk mounted subs and other members have shared there findings and offered there best findings by the way it sounds as well as being tested on a TL mic.

Impendence is a standard measurement of the speaker much like watts (rms & max) is a standard measurement of an amplifier. So in your design you need to match your final sub speaker load (Impendence) to the amplifier output design load (speaker impedance).

Would not advise just to add some ports to your existing box as in sealed applications vs. ported applications for the same subwoofer. Ported in most cases require more internal air space and sometimes the manufacture specs out the net internal volume and does not include the subwoofer physical displacement nor the port displacement so these need to be added to the total interior air space calculations.

You talked about your next box would be approx 6.5 cu. Ft. was this calculated as your external or internal air space? And are you remembering to include your subwoofer displacement and port displacement (round or square ports).

Sorry I got long winded again I guess the rockstars are still flowing after getting off of work.

yea rite now my alt is supposed to put out 80 amps about. im still guna c if i can take it to get a system test ive found some ho alts that would do 200, and like 160 running hot? i think.

i get the rear speakers example, but my rear speakers dont tie into the trunk, they hav there own compartment so to say. wat if i lay my rear seats down? then there would be a big space for air to flow..

do u know wat those threads on trunk subs r calld?

so by impedance u mean the amp, say 1 ohm, must match the subs, 1 ohm? like u cant run the system at 1 ohm if the amps impedance is 2?

i think im guna just leave my current box alone and work on a new one for the new subs. I'm havin to totally rethink my box design, but im still hopein for 6.5 cu ft. i need to read up more on how to calculate my ports and stuff. know of anything that would help with box designs i could read? like i still dont get sub displacement.. or port. im thinkin square ports tho. i also need to learn how to tune my box..

[bmwkingaudio]

No problem just sharing something’s I have picked up here and there.

Here in nor cal I have gone to kragen auto parts and the charging system test was free of charge so ask you local auto parts store if they can do this test and what is the cost for this test.

Upgrade alternator very in price you maybe able to get some examples by looking on e-bay your car model maybe in the line up with pricing. With a single alternator upgrade try in the 180 – 240 amp range just because you want to make sure you have a decent output from your alternator at idle speed.

Taking out the rear speakers will allow for a pathway from your trunk to the interior of your car. Here is a bad example hopefully this helps, you place a large fan in the trunk of your car running at the highest speed possible. Where is the airflow going to go once the fan is up to speed, out of any gaps and cracks it can find as the trunk will become pressurized and will look for a way out of your trunk. If you open you trunk you would probable feel some air pressure right away. If you removed you speakers from your rear deck do you think some of that airflow or pressure will begin to pass through the open holes into your interior of your car? Remember regardless of the subs you decide on using you will be creating a pressure in your trunk some of it will find away into your car and outside as well. Your trunk lid is going to go crazy with some of the power levels and subs you are talking about using. An easy test by removing your rear speakers to relieve some of that pressure from your trunk. If it does not work out you can always replace them, another thing about the speakers in your rear deck these speakers will be affect by some of the pressure created by your subs as they share the same air space into the trunk so they may sound different after you upgrade your subs.

Sub mounting direction has been matter of testing to find out what works best in your application there are few threads on trunk mounted subs and other members have shared there findings and offered there best findings by the way it sounds as well as being tested on a TL mic.

Impendence is a standard measurement of the speaker much like watts (rms & max) is a standard measurement of an amplifier. So in your design you need to match your final sub speaker load (Impendence) to the amplifier output design load (speaker impedance).

Would not advise just to add some ports to your existing box as in sealed applications vs. ported applications for the same subwoofer. Ported in most cases require more internal air space and sometimes the manufacture specs out the net internal volume and does not include the subwoofer physical displacement nor the port displacement so these need to be added to the total interior air space calculations.

You talked about your next box would be approx 6.5 cu. Ft. was this calculated as your external or internal air space? And are you remembering to include your subwoofer displacement and port displacement (round or square ports).

Sorry I got long winded again I guess the rockstars are still flowing after getting off of work.

how many watts do u think my second batt should do? or even a third?..

[MickyMcD]

Okay, I'm going to cop flak and flame for this but;

I think it's top notch that you are thinking big, and that you have come here to learn. But man, you are way out of your depth.

I'm not talking from a product point of view, I'm talking about both skill and safety. To be 100% blunt, you do not have the skill to install the system you are talking about safely. Period. I'm not acting all high and mighty, I am seriously worried about your safety.

These amplifiers you want put out enough voltage to kill, and the current they draw is massive. It takes a stray lead and everything is gone.

Also, you are always looking for woofers and amplifiers with the highest power ratings you can find. Did you know, that no matter what brand is stamped on the dustcap, that a coil based loudspeaker is around 2% efficient? Make an efficient enclosure to maximise what you are putting in and you will be more than surprised. I reiterate, if you want high power, get a pair of BL's with one point five kilowatts per driver in a well done enclosure.

If you honestly think you have the skill, experience and know how to install this system, go right on ahead. But I am concerned that you don't, and I don't want you to get hurt.

Cheers,

Mick

[bmwkingaudio]

Okay, I'm going to cop flak and flame for this but;

I think it's top notch that you are thinking big, and that you have come here to learn. But man, you are way out of your depth.

I'm not talking from a product point of view, I'm talking about both skill and safety. To be 100% blunt, you do not have the skill to install the system you are talking about safely. Period. I'm not acting all high and mighty, I am seriously worried about your safety.

These amplifiers you want put out enough voltage to kill, and the current they draw is massive. It takes a stray lead and everything is gone.

Also, you are always looking for woofers and amplifiers with the highest power ratings you can find. Did you know, that no matter what brand is stamped on the dustcap, that a coil based loudspeaker is around 2% efficient? Make an efficient enclosure to maximise what you are putting in and you will be more than surprised. I reiterate, if you want high power, get a pair of BL's with one point five kilowatts per driver in a well done enclosure.

If you honestly think you have the skill, experience and know how to install this system, go right on ahead. But I am concerned that you don't, and I don't want you to get hurt.

Cheers,

Mick

i know im under experienced, but i hav people i know to help me. and i came here to try to learn more, and im glad i did. and yea i do get carried away wit power ratings, but i think ive settled on 2 btls and 2 2200ds. thanx for ur input tho, i listen to everythin people tell me on here. i think i hav learned enough to do all the electricals so far. just the box that im stuck on. if u can think of anythin else that mite help me please tell.

[AI James]

i can design your box for a small fee

[wL<3bass]

i know im under experienced, but i hav people i know to help me. and i came here to try to learn more, and im glad i did. and yea i do get carried away wit power ratings, but i think ive settled on 2 btls and 2 2200ds. thanx for ur input tho, i listen to everythin people tell me on here. i think i hav learned enough to do all the electricals so far. just the box that im stuck on. if u can think of anythin else that mite help me please tell.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/01nocomment8so.gif

[bmwkingaudio]

i can design your box for a small fee

how much of a small fee?