audiofanaticz Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 What alternator is giving you the 15.2 reading? This alt is pluged in. We see the volt meter and the alternator but see no plugs in the alt to run it? Houdini in the hiz-ouse. LOL This alt with the "reading" is not pluged in. Thanks for the pics SMD members appreciate them. wowzers what is up with that. You looked at them pictures more closely then I have. How do you get a voltage readout of the alternator when theres nothing hooked up? Please teach me this trick! Id love to mess with the other competitiors at the next show!!!! Maybe that is a voltage is being taken from a dead 16 volt battery or a charger, and made to look like the alternator, but got FAILED because the alt plug is MIA? Explain please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactownstang Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Coulda hit hold on the DMM???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Coulda hit hold on the DMM???? There seems to be no hold feature on a extech 380225 multimeter. And if there was, why is the ground terminal being grounded out against the testing machine.. I just confused, that is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrafrica Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 what is the big 3???? And far as the best connection ever....... get a huge fucking battery, cut the top off, drop an alt in there and then pour all that into your big amplifier. or just smelt them all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 what is the big 3???? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrafrica Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 why thank you very much. that helped out alot. And far as the best connection ever....... get a huge fucking battery, cut the top off, drop an alt in there and then pour all that into your big amplifier. or just smelt them all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missinglink Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 wowzers what is up with that. You looked at them pictures more closely then I have. How do you get a voltage readout of the alternator when theres nothing hooked up? Please teach me this trick! Id love to mess with the other competitiors at the next show!!!! Maybe that is a voltage is being taken from a dead 16 volt battery or a charger, and made to look like the alternator, but got FAILED because the alt plug is MIA? Explain please? "Houdini" LMFAO MLA missinglinkaudio The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Really though. Why do you need a cheap dmm that can be had for $80 or less online to read the 15.24 volts, when you have a D&V Alt-98 alternator tester that costs how much, $5,000+? If it was me, Id have to say that the alternator dyno machine should be more accurate then some cheaper dmm. Correct me if Im wrong please, but the pictures of the dyno screen clearly state testing voltage and also none of them are showing 15.24 volts, or even 14 volts for that matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Really though. Why do you need a cheap dmm that can be had for $80 or less online to read the 15.24 volts, when you have a D&V Alt-98 alternator tester that costs how much, $5,000+? If it was me, Id have to say that the alternator dyno machine should be more accurate then some cheaper dmm. Correct me if Im wrong please, but the pictures of the dyno screen clearly state testing voltage and also none of them are showing 15.24 volts, or even 14 volts for that matter. The internal adjustable regulator that is used on our CS units has a potentiometer built into it, the same as an external regulator would. It is a Transpo regulator, built with versatility in mind. When the CS connector is plugged in, it functions as a normal CS regulator, set-point at 14.6 volts. When the CS connector is unplugged, it defaults to whatever voltage the potentiometer is manually set at. Furthermore, the regulator has a function where voltage can be switched from the manual potentiometer setting to 14.6 V at will, whenever the P terminal is energized. (this allows for voltage adjustment on the fly from a remote switch, such as in the driver's compartment) The automated dyno session requires the regulator plug to be plugged in in order for the DV tester to test the indicator light function of the regulator. In OEM type installations where the regulator is plugged in, this ensures that the customer's indicator light will still work properly when installed. Obviously, if the customer opts for adjustable voltage, the indicator light function is negated, and the unit will be self exciting and function as a one wire alternator. The voltage displayed on the readout of the DV indicates the simulated battery voltage that the regulator would see. In order for an alternator to function, it has to see a load. That voltage number has nothing to do with the voltage output of the alternator, is is merely the input going to the S terminal of the regulator. Because it is necessary to go into manual mode on the tester to measure with the alternator plug disconnected, it is easier to just measure the voltage with a DMM. The DMM is grounded against the mounting fixture, because the alternator is grounded against the fixture. (note the big black grounding clamp connected to it) The positive lead of the DMM is against the charge post of the alternator. It is a pretty silly accusation to say that we have to fake voltage settings on an alternator. MLA can vouch, any clown can tweak the voltage up on an alternator, it's a surprisingly simple operation. We have countless units in the field operating at anywhere between 15 and 18 volts, depending on the turn of a screw. (many of those units in the hands of SMD members) Thank you for posting your negative responses, it saves me the trouble illustrating to forum members who the professionals are in this discussion. p.s. the DV isn't $5,000, it's closer to $50,000 nowadays. 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Ok, then why do i not see any red wire connected to the post on the alternator. I dont see the probe nor the wire anywhere near it... Infact, I see the red lead from the dmm running along with the red one towards the bottom of the screen. So really now, what is the positive connected too. its clearly not the alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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