a_steezy Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 two of my friends just asked about capacitors... i said don't waste your damn money and caps are for fegssss what are peoples views on them?? Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kicker Guy Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 They have a purpose.... but most people don't use them right and think they are the perfect bandaid. Personally I don't mind them but they are far from the end all be all of car audio. Quote Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1 Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood. Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2 Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 the price of a decent cap is the price of a decent battery, a battery is thousands of times more powerful than most caps, so why not? I told this to a customer one day, 1 farad=1columb of electrons at 1 volt. 12 volt car=1/12 columb of electrons. 1 columb of electrons in one hour=1 amp. smallest battery we have is 20 amp hours, or 480 times the reserve of a capacitor. now who is dumb enough to get a capacitor knowing that (i may be wrong on the math, physics was a long time ago, and im drunk, but it should be right) Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Powered By Hate Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) the price of a decent cap is the price of a decent battery, a battery is thousands of times more powerful than most caps, so why not?I told this to a customer one day, 1 farad=1columb of electrons at 1 volt. 12 volt car=1/12 columb of electrons. 1 columb of electrons in one hour=1 amp. smallest battery we have is 20 amp hours, or 480 times the reserve of a capacitor. now who is dumb enough to get a capacitor knowing that (i may be wrong on the math, physics was a long time ago, and im drunk, but it should be right) Well... some caps arnet like a 2 liter bottle.. some caps are over 100lbs and custom made.. My buddy mike has one I'm trying to get.. its from years ago but its supposed to be a "million farads" realistically.. prolly less. Fact is I need the energy when my stereo hits for that 1-3 seconds RIGHT AWAY. Caps discharge faster than batteries BUT they dont have nearly as much power.. That giant cap would only be good for a pure spl, test tone, "sixty seven cycles" vehicle.. Small caps can be used as bottom fishing weights.. have no love for em. Im not en expert but I did stay in a holiday inn express last night.. that and I have this many batteries. Edited September 20, 2008 by Powered By Hate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aznboi3644 Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 Capacitors actual do what they are INTENDED for...Its just that 99% of people expect way too much from a capacitor because they do not know what capacitors are for...The companies that sell caps make up a shit load of marketing lies like "improves sound quality and no more dimming lights" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 (edited) ok so 2 peeps in this thread said people dont use caps for wut they were made for. explain to me wut they were made for and if im using mine wrong btw i bought my cap so i could have a tighter more accurate kick bass Edited September 21, 2008 by IH8PunkRok Quote -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Performer Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 They're just a short step ahead of the burst. Basically, given you have the right sized cap for the right sized amp, and the right situation of song/music they do work. Say you're listening to some rock music, where you have a bass drum that hits every second or two. Now your cap is between your amp and battery, so the amp is going to pull from the cap before it gets to the battery and the rest of the electrical throughout the vehicle. So between each bass hit there's a second or two in which the amp is not doing anything, a cap will charge up between that time and store a small burst of power. When it comes time to hit bass, well the cap has just enough to push that bass for the second, therefore the amp uses the power from the cap and doesn't draw much from the battery. Then the cycle repeats. The thing is, just like everyone is saying, most people just go off of what the sales rep at best buy/circuit city tells them, that if they buy the biggest cap they sell it will be like another battery, which is WRONG. The key is if you want to make use of a cap the right way you must get the right sized cap, for the right sized amp. With a battery/alt. upgrade you can go as big as you want and it just gets better, however with a cap you must know WHEN and if it will be efficient for the system. If you're music has a low sustaining bass note that makes the amp work CONSTANTLY then obviously a cap wont do, there's no down time for the cap to charge. You'll just draw the power from the cap, then go to the battery, as well as have the cap trying to charge back at the same time. In that case it's worse for your application. If you get too big a cap for what your amp is using then you are just wasting battery power, the cap will need to be charging to MORE power, just stressing even more on the battery. Caps work for the situations in which they make the system efficient, if you get one of the components within your cap/amp/music/battery/alt combination wrong it will be inefficient. If you make all of those components right, then the cap will be efficient. All in all, sometimes the situation will be that to get the right cap it's almost the same as well as easier to just upgrade alt/battery, in which case THAT is what you want to do. Quote CERTIFIED BITCHES!!! Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks' Click to see my build! Proud DC owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 the price of a decent cap is the price of a decent battery, a battery is thousands of times more powerful than most caps, so why not?I told this to a customer one day, 1 farad=1columb of electrons at 1 volt. 12 volt car=1/12 columb of electrons. 1 columb of electrons in one hour=1 amp. smallest battery we have is 20 amp hours, or 480 times the reserve of a capacitor. now who is dumb enough to get a capacitor knowing that (i may be wrong on the math, physics was a long time ago, and im drunk, but it should be right) Your maths/physics is way way way off but the idea is right Quote 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 Only capacitor that I think is worth anything Click! and it's still just a small agm battery with a really fast discharge/recharge and does help with fast kick bass. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickyMcD Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 In all seriousness, you should never need a capacitor. The amplifier power supply should be chock full of high capacitance. A well built amplifier will have enough capacitance and charge to handle zero headroom transients as long as it has a stiff supply of juice. For a well built amplifier, external capacitors are simply not needed. Instead, if the amplifier is not handling said transients well, stiffen the supply voltage. That being said, some amplifiers are built more as absolute raw powerhouses that do have very slight trouble with extreme voltage swings that may in fact benefit from external capacitance. Cheers, Mick Quote Work;DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS VeniceMeyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2'sRAMSA Monitor AmplifiersP.Audio MonitorsBSS OMNIDRIVE and SoundwebDBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ'sRCF TT22ARCF ART320 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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