doubleD Posted September 20, 2008 Report Posted September 20, 2008 Ive got 4 18" treo ssi subs in a 16 cubic foot box an 200 sqr inch port . running a treo ssx 2ooo.1 on them. larg battery up front and larg deep cycle batt in the back. ive got a 210 amp ohio gen alt an isolator. at night i stil have the whole headlight dim thing an voltage drop. What should i do, ad stock alt back on for front batt and use the large alt for the audio end. or what is most likley the cause , and how to fix it. just to add , all this was put in by audio shop in tulsa ok
Beanz Posted September 20, 2008 Report Posted September 20, 2008 you got vids of the subs?sounds like it's crazy! That's why they don't deliver. Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait. You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.
Guest Posted September 20, 2008 Report Posted September 20, 2008 put a few more deep cycle batteries in there.
tacomabanga1986 Posted September 20, 2008 Report Posted September 20, 2008 get rid of that isolator, it blocks most of the current flow to back battery, ied just put a fuse inline with it and be that, ive had mine wired with front battery for about 2yrs now and nothin wrong and no voltage drop at all, but i dont have half the shit u do tho, but ied try takein the isolator out and just straight wire the front and rear battery together like pos of front to rear pos and so on, and that should fix, i heard isolators blocked most of the current just to save front batterys amprage to run the rest of the car like engin and assories, and might be an ohm load also, i got a 130amp stock alt under the hood, with a duralast gold top 950amp in front and a stinger sp800 in back and i took out my 2 mtx 5500 15's dual 4ohm and i useto have it wired 1ohm(its 1ohm stable) and now i got my mtx 8000 15 single 4ohm and now its at 2ohm and no dimming at all, try that should work, im not sayin u dotn kno ur ish but little shit can be looked over really easy here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit
wL<3bass Posted September 20, 2008 Report Posted September 20, 2008 Ive got 4 18" treo ssi subs in a 16 cubic foot box an 200 sqr inch port . running a treo ssx 2ooo.1 on them. larg battery up front and larg deep cycle batt in the back. ive got a 210 amp ohio gen alt an isolator. at night i stil have the whole headlight dim thing an voltage drop. What should i do, ad stock alt back on for front batt and use the large alt for the audio end. or what is most likley the cause , and how to fix it. just to add , all this was put in by audio shop in tulsa ok Done the big 3 yet? Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
MECHMAN Posted September 23, 2008 Report Posted September 23, 2008 Done the big 3 yet? Get rid of the isolator. You essentially only are running off one battery when you have an isloator installed. Just parralel the two bats together and you will have twice at much battery researve. Additionally, the charge voltage to the rear battery will be aprox. 1 volt higher, (without the voltage drop through the isolator) so it will be charged much better. 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected]
doubleD Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Posted September 23, 2008 Get rid of the isolator. You essentially only are running off one battery when you have an isloator installed. Just parralel the two bats together and you will have twice at much battery researve. Additionally, the charge voltage to the rear battery will be aprox. 1 volt higher, (without the voltage drop through the isolator) so it will be charged much better. what about using my stock alt just for the engine batt, and using the big alt just for the audio end. that way they would be sepperate
dmanson Posted September 24, 2008 Report Posted September 24, 2008 what about using my stock alt just for the engine batt, and using the big alt just for the audio end. that way they would be sepperate you can always do it like that. have your highs amp running at the stock alt and then ya HO alt handling ya sub amp(s)....... 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
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