V1G1LANT3 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 Do ports have to be built of 3/4"..the same as boxes. Or can I just use 1/2"..trying to cut down on weight. Quote
Nightshade Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 Your not going to be cutting down that much weight by only using a 1/4" thinner wood on the port. Just use 3/4" all the way aroud and quit trying to skimp. Quote 2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo 1 Sundown Audio SCV2000 1 Sundown Audio X15 V2 1 XS Power D3100 Audio Control LC6i Stock Deck 146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz 2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore ChampionHighest NSPL Scores to date:154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz
RamenNoodles Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 Use an aero port if you are worried so much about weight. Quote Diablo Audio Technologies Fi Car Audio Ascendant Audio
V1G1LANT3 Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Posted November 2, 2008 haha...I was just wondering if it's a must to build ports out of 3/4" too. I know I wont be saving much weight..but when the port is 22" long and solid 3/4" it weighs quiet a bit. Quote
V1G1LANT3 Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Posted November 2, 2008 My main question is, will it hurt to use 1/2 mdf" for the port? People don't use it for boxes because it flexes ..will it be the same scenario with the port. Quote
Sp33dyG Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 My main question is, will it hurt to use 1/2 mdf" for the port? People don't use it for boxes because it flexes ..will it be the same scenario with the port. yea some ppl have 2 brace their ports Quote the only person i wouldnt let build my box would be Ray. Team Heavy-Flex4 SA 12's tuned to 29hz Ampere Audio 3800.1 @ 1 ohmXS Power D3100Big 3Stock alt
V1G1LANT3 Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Posted November 2, 2008 My port is going to be 15"x3" opening..it's not real big so I thought maybe it would be sturdy enough by itself..I'll add fiberglass if I need to. ...also I am going to make it curve so that's why I didn't want to go with birch. Quote
wL<3bass Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 (edited) Use birch? If your concerned about weight use birch and aeros... Edited November 2, 2008 by wL<3bass Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
stratusrt01 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 (edited) I curve ports all the time using 3/4" birch, it's actually easier than using MDF. I definately wouldn't use kerfed 1/2" MDF for a port. Edited November 2, 2008 by stratusrt01 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.