stratusrt01

I agree that 12.5V drops are nothing, really. Batteries are 12.8, so realistically, you are only dropping .3V before you kill it. I know there's more to it than that, but once you pull over 300 amps, you're going to go to battery power, which is normally 12.8V. My Ohio 300 amp alternator puts out pretty much nothing at idle, and I was told by a couple other manufacturers that in order to make 300 amps, there has to be some give, and that's charge at idle. As soon as I touch the gas, my amperage and voltage comes up to normal, but at idle, I'm also running off of straight battery power, pretty much. In contrast, a couple friends have 200 amp alternators, and theirs put out decent power at idle, and it's the same alternator casing, just mine is 300 amps, their's is 200 amps.

Guess I should have put a few more pieces of info: mids and highs are CDT HD's, 2 sets with the CDT imaging and centerchannel setups. All are included with the car, that's over $1200 in mids and highs. fastest way to contact me for questions is probably by email, since it's forwarded to my phone: [email protected]

Well, it's time to grow up and buy a larger car for daily driving. The Good: Runs 100% like new Near new 18" rims and tires TC Sportline bodykit (the only "good" kit for this car) Lots of custom fiberglass work The Bad: Couple cracks in the bodykit (if I get asking price, I will fix and repaint these before the sale) 2 small dents in the rear 1/4 panel windshield is cracked, but still passes NC inspection with the crack Car will come with the mids and highs still in it, and if I get asking price, I can put a decent Pioneer headunit in the car if the buyer wants. Something like the 6000UB or similar. Car already has 2 runs of 1/0 in it, and will stay in there. I also have a dual 10" box for the car that worked very well in the car, although it is not the box that hit the 152.4 in the car. Just a great daily driver box. The rear deck is cutout and replaced by a grill cloth cover. Most people don't even notice from the outside. Asking $5500 obo. I have the rest of the interior panels for the car not shown in the pics, don't want them to become sun damaged, so they're removed while the car is sitting:

he's not in the military, see the brass that says ROTC? He's just an ROTC cadet in college. I don't think they'd let him be commissioned if they saw those pics......ewwwwww.

Everyone looked a little rough after being rained on for a couple hours.

It was a good show, got me back into the game after a long absence. I see that the horn is not going to be worth running and competing with now. Adding the 2nd amp only picked up .2!!!!!!, so I guess it's back to the drawing board for the 29th.

Happy Birthday Ray, just imagine how you'll feel in 7 years when you're my age!!!!!!!!

Open a Pawn Shop instead...... When everyone else is doing bad, Pawn Shops make killer money. And you can sell car audio out of it also, there's a couple places here in town that make a killing like that. example: Joe buys a pair of DD 3512's and the next month he can't afford them, so he pawns them for about 1/6th of what he paid, thinking that he's going to pay it back and get the subs back, but that happens about 35% of the time, so the shop keeps the woofers and then sells them again. It's a great circle, and makes money, even when times are hard.

It's loud and peaky, exactly what I wanted.......lol Definately not an SQ setup.

yeah, subs are in a tapped horn and inverted, so there's really no woofer porn, you'd just be looking at the baskets. And I'm taking it easy because these are brand new woofers, along with a brand new setup, so I'm being nice to them for a few days before I give them hell.

quick video, still taking it easy, but it'll do a little bit....

For the car, I want perfect reproduction of music For the truck, I'd love to just be able to hear my mids and highs all the time.

A little reading for you on caps. This is an exert of a long thread from Richard Clark on using caps in Car Audio. If he says they're worthless, then they're worthless, point blank. While this is just one side of the conversation, all the math and science is covered. http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=17919

I guess I should have added, .25 ohms, wide open on music, and at 18.3 volts..... And yes, eventually it went into protect from overheating, but it took about 10 minutes cranking on it pretty hard. As soon as it cooled down, it came right back on and started playing just fine again. Props to Jacob for building a hell of an amp that will take some abuse. It's wired back up at 1 ohm now, and playing great. You guys know I have to stress test everything!!!!

A Sundown SAZ-3000d can run at .25 ohms wide open on music? BTW: I know the answer already...

Well, that's the way it's getting fired up tomorrow. Nightshade 18's, horn and SAZ-3000d at 18V, and then a pair of Powerbass 4" coaxials on the headunit.......lol

I "should" have the bass playing tomorrow if everything goes right. Then I have to do something quick and decent for the mids and highs.