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Posted

Double baffle IS nessesary for spl and really so the box doesnt break apart. the baffle is the weakest part on any box and to tell the truth, it REALLY isnt that hard to make it a double. Very quick work once you have the first one done.

4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz

1- T1000.1bd's

3 Maxx 29 deep cycles

4 runs of 1/0 gauge

-Big 3

-Trunk sealed off from the cabin

Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module

All in a CAR.

Posted

I say. if you decide you wanted to have the port at the bottom, flip the box upside down, and then double baffle top and bottom since you have to cover the first hole some how, then take a cutout and glue it, and fill in the crevice with resin or silcone. Then you'll have your port on bottom. =). Easy modification. But if it sounds good like that then w/e. But I say you need a double baffle also, your going to regret it if your subs break your box.

yuk.jpg

Posted

instead of doin a double baffle can i just do like steve did and cut out around the speakers and put it on top,cuz i planned on fiberglassing the inside for support to

1998 gmc sierra

h/u:eclipse cd3200

sub:dd9518g d1.5

amp:jl e300/4

sub amp:dd m2a

front stage:id ctx65cs

dc power 270 alt

lots of kicker 1/0

Posted

instead of doin a double baffle can i just do like steve did and cut out around the speakers and put it on top,cuz i planned on fiberglassing the inside for support to

Yes you could but you haven't done it so do it! Your going to do alot of fiberglassing.
Posted

you swapped the board around so the port is on the bottom!!!???? how do you switch a board around if a box is built even half properly???

-------------------------------------------------

1st place circuit city car/spl show (maplewood,MN) 2006

146.6 dB's with 2 12" L7 and 1606d brutus

Posted

I think from what I read he's saying that he was just gonna cover up the port holes and baffle with some more wood. I'd just build a whole new box cuz that route is goin to affect airflow unless he resins and glasses the shit out of it.

4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz

1- T1000.1bd's

3 Maxx 29 deep cycles

4 runs of 1/0 gauge

-Big 3

-Trunk sealed off from the cabin

Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module

All in a CAR.

Posted

I too suggest redoing the box. Maybe go it metered, play around with it some and just redo it. Part of getting loud is trial and error. Everything these guys have said is correct about the port and baffle.

Build, test, rebuild, retest...gotta love it

Posted

i was able to swap the port around cuz i never screwed that board in,i ran out of silicone and screws,and i dont get how your talkin bout not bein able to flip pieces if a box is built properly,i had the port at the top just so people can see the magnets until i got it finished,i kno there not straight cuts i gotta sand them even,im not the best cutter,and i plan on doing a double baffle im gonna make it like steves where the subs sit flush,and i plan on fiberglassing the inside

1998 gmc sierra

h/u:eclipse cd3200

sub:dd9518g d1.5

amp:jl e300/4

sub amp:dd m2a

front stage:id ctx65cs

dc power 270 alt

lots of kicker 1/0

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