Boon Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 The problem is that you have a MASSSSSSIVE charge imbalance between your batteries! Your rear battery is probably fucked by now if you've been cycling it like you say. Let's say the rear battery is flat as a pancake so can't provide any power. So all the power for your system has to come from the front battery. You have a 3500w amp so we'll call it 400A maximum current. You're pulling close to that over a single run of 0ga so of course it's going to get hot. It won't blow the fuse because big fuses like that actually take like 500A to blow instantly but you can see from the discoloration that it's been getting really really hot. When it gets too hot the resistance rises so the voltage drops and the amp goes into protect. Your rear battery is probably not even taking a charge properly. Charge/replace your rear battery for a start! 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amalan Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Your fuse block melted not from over current obviously, since the fuse didnt blow. I bet it was the vibration that caused it to burn up, with the fuse block shaking and vibrating it creates resistance and heat. The same thing happened to me when I had mounted my fuse block few year back on my intake that shakes a lot. It melted bad but never blew the fuse. hm im not sure that was the case here, like i said before the wire was super gunky like was encrusted in gunk so it looked like all the weather elements were just pelted onto the fuse like salt snow rain etc. it really started going crappy during/after a bad snow storm. if you relook at those pictures you can tell the screws holding the cover down are rusted soo i dont think salt/slush + high current mix well. The problem is that you have a MASSSSSSIVE charge imbalance between your batteries! Your rear battery is probably fucked by now if you've been cycling it like you say. Let's say the rear battery is flat as a pancake so can't provide any power. So all the power for your system has to come from the front battery. You have a 3500w amp so we'll call it 400A maximum current. You're pulling close to that over a single run of 0ga so of course it's going to get hot. It won't blow the fuse because big fuses like that actually take like 500A to blow instantly but you can see from the discoloration that it's been getting really really hot. When it gets too hot the resistance rises so the voltage drops and the amp goes into protect. Your rear battery is probably not even taking a charge properly. Charge/replace your rear battery for a start! well everything seems dandy now, the rear batt is sitting around 13.8v on idle and doesnt drop too badly like around 13.1-13.4 on full tilt. either way i crank my system maybe once every month for like 20 seconds to show off but otherwise its down at like 20% volume which i find enjoyable for music. The rear battery is fine i think i just need to stop being lazy and drill a hole through the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 oh damn, I didn't notice that. 10% copper? crap. No wonder the cross section looked funny. Well, didn't someone just say the electrons flow over the wire, not inside, so... hopefully that part is copper That bike lock cable is looking better and better haha [edit] double fuck, am I going to have to smear Dielectric Grease all over everything? lol.. .damn 'that only happens with vary high frequency alternating current direct current flows throughout the wire, its not until you hit a higher alternating frequency that it moves to the outside which is why busbars work so damn well... theres some display on bcae1 showing how as frequency increases how electrons favor the outside of a wire for dc, the entire crossection is used edit, found link, check it out http://www.bcae1.com/trnsfrmr.htm notice what happens if you put "0 hertz", aka, dc current, into the charts? Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 crazy man... how bright is that led bulb in the background? ive been thinking of getting them J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amalan Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 crazy man... how bright is that led bulb in the background? ive been thinking of getting them super bright lol theyre from http://www.v-leds.com/ but i got mine ages ago before they started changing prices. theyre one of the brightest on the market but kinda pricey now http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa302/T...ja/DSC03868.jpg picture of them i used them as license plate bulbs and theyre much brighter than oem lexus ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clintcav Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Look everybody has named everything it could be except what it is,Vibration and water and heat and wire size and fuse brand and size and quality. The fuse is there only to protect the wire against shorting out against the chassis thats it. Chances are it is a bad connection. A loose ground wire from the amp to the chassis or from the ground block to the chassis, or it could be a loose connection on the pos side. If it is a cheap fuse holder maybe the bolt on the terminal that holds the fuse in doesnt get tight or the screws that hold the wire in the fuse holder dont get tight or are stripped out. I dont know what amp you have but if it is 3500 watts it will pull alot of current. When you are playing it for a long time and your rear battery gets low now your current draw is even higher, you are trying to charge a dead battery plus keep the system going. And now that your voltage is low that means increased resistance and current draw. With that kind of load a loose connection will get hot. What happens is a loose conection causes increased resistance as the resistance builds up so does heat. Looking again at the pics i can see that the fuse wasnt contacting the block very good on one end. You can see it is only blued on one screw. 2001 EXPEDITION 6 RE MT 15" WITH TEAM PSI PARTS 4 ROCKFORD T30001BD 3 ROCKFORD T5002 6 DEKA GROUP 31 INTIMIDATOR BATTS 156 AT 42Hz at 12 volts (need more alternator) usac outlaw in the kick door open Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 regardless of how good the connection was the fuse should have blown J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 If the fuse is loose or it is a cheap holder, It will create heat and melt the fuse as shown. You can see from the purple color on the holder nut that it has gotten super hot. Either the fuse was loose to the holder, the wire was loose in the holder, or the fuse itself was loose in the casing. Another thing to note is if the blade of the fuse is not sitting flush to the holder that will also be an issue. It looks like the fuse wasn't sitting flush on the holder. Not enough contact between the 2 will create problems. It could be the cheap metal they used to make the holder. The corrosion is an after affect of the weather not the cause. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amalan Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 If the fuse is loose or it is a cheap holder, It will create heat and melt the fuse as shown. You can see from the purple color on the holder nut that it has gotten super hot. Either the fuse was loose to the holder, the wire was loose in the holder, or the fuse itself was loose in the casing. Another thing to note is if the blade of the fuse is not sitting flush to the holder that will also be an issue. It looks like the fuse wasn't sitting flush on the holder. Not enough contact between the 2 will create problems. It could be the cheap metal they used to make the holder. The corrosion is an after affect of the weather not the cause. its a us amps holder so eh i dunno but the metal block on the right thats angled is like that because it got so hot that it melted the plastic barriers holding it from sliding and repositioned it like that. so it first got hot enough to melt the plastic before it made the fuse blade become angled like that. and the nuts were on decently tight took a little force to get them off but enough to keep them on there. The fuse holder is bolted down and the wire is zip tied so i dont think there was that much movement in the wire/holder. I put a stinger fuse in a spare holder i had and everything is working like it should for the most part so hopefully i wont have to deal with this bs again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 If the fuse is loose or it is a cheap holder, It will create heat and melt the fuse as shown. You can see from the purple color on the holder nut that it has gotten super hot. Either the fuse was loose to the holder, the wire was loose in the holder, or the fuse itself was loose in the casing. Another thing to note is if the blade of the fuse is not sitting flush to the holder that will also be an issue. It looks like the fuse wasn't sitting flush on the holder. Not enough contact between the 2 will create problems. It could be the cheap metal they used to make the holder. The corrosion is an after affect of the weather not the cause. right but the fuse still should have blown J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.