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Second Skin Audio

Buy Fi Or Wait For Smd?


Buy FI or wait for SMD?  

69 members have voted

  1. 1. Should I wait for release of SMD or buy FI?

    • Wait 4 SMD
      38
    • Buy FI
      32


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Posted

one of the few places where you can get a dozen people to go "if its ONLY 6000 watts..." lol

go for the btls, or a couple extra watts and 2 smd 18's, if you could muster up like 8k, that would be pretty sick.

That's what I was thinking! 6,000 watts is nothing to piss on for fuck's sake!
Posted

Wish i ONLY had 6000watts :lol:

H/U Pioneer deh80prs w/ HRT iStreamer Ipod DAC
Front stage is active, 4 Morel Elate 6.5" & 8 CDT DRT26 tweets
amp running 4mids, Mosconi Audio 300.2
amp running 8tit & alum tweets, Mosconi Audio 200.2
8 12" Ascendant Audio Chaos. amps 2 Digital Designs M4'z
box is a 4th order band pass
batts. 1 XS Power D3400 under hood,6 D3100 in back
2 XP 370 amp DC Power alts.
MLA module 15+volts
All in a 97 2door Tahoe LT

2010 West Coast Reg. 140-149.9 Bass Race Champ

Team Bass Hz

Posted

haha i wish i ONLY had 1000 watts lol

First Gen Xterra: Always changing

DNX 690HD

RF 360.3
RF T3002
RF T4004
RF T10001bd
Silver Flute 6.5"s
Tang Band 1" Tweeters
Sundown X18 in 7cubes net tuned to 32hz

Trust me .25 Blows your Load.

Posted

i think all the guy is trying to say is that the fact that steve didn't actually design or build this that its kind of dumb to put his name on it.

not saying that he didn't though. he very well could have helped scott with designs and building.

but think about it like this:

a home owner doesn't actually build or design their "house"

but the fact that they worked their ass off to pay for it and worked hard to get to the point where they can have their own "house" makes it theirs.

Posted

i think all the guy is trying to say is that the fact that steve didn't actually design or build this that its kind of dumb to put his name on it.

not saying that he didn't though. he very well could have helped scott with designs and building.

but think about it like this:

a home owner doesn't actually build or design their "house"

but the fact that they worked their ass off to pay for it and worked hard to get to the point where they can have their own "house" makes it theirs.

No point in trying to explain that to these people. There's a lot of dick riding going on. As you can tell from the mom joke. But I'm done posting on this thread.

OP go with Fi.

Posted

No point in trying to explain that to these people. There's a lot of dick riding going on. As you can tell from the mom joke. But I'm done posting on this thread.

OP go with Fi.

i'm not defending or trying to offend anyone.

i hate forums where people argue. this is a place to share and gain knowledge, get ideas and share my hobby. if i wanted to argue i would go to ca.com

Posted

6000+ walled with 3 15's

You could also get 1 18inch SMD sub and power it with 6000Watts. :diablo::wacko:

And later get another one and get more amps an batteries.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

Posted

No point in trying to explain that to these people. There's a lot of dick riding going on. As you can tell from the mom joke. But I'm done posting on this thread.

OP go with Fi.

That does happen a lot here.

But if you are going to say something about the sub can I ask why you don't like it? I have yet to find a Fi/AA sub that didn't have great potential. I am not attacking you or anything I am just curious.

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1

Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's

Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz

Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood.

Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars

Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2

Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz

Posted

I would probably wait for the SMD's to be PROVEN, not just released, before making a decision.

Sorry Steve, but I can't take word in place of results. Sometimes people/companies do things with the best of intentions and it makes sense on paper, but then you hook it up and it sounds like sh*t. I'm about 99% sure that WON'T be the case with the SMD's, but ya never know, right?

Too many projects, too little time...

Posted

Let me say I love BTL's, but I just sold mine to buy SMD subs. . .I am not worried about the wait. The delays were beyond Scott's control. When I saw the proto at his office, I knew I had to have them.

I would also like to say there always seems to be a lot of mis-info on how much power you need to use a certain driver. This gets brought up over and over at ***. I am going to have to disagree with some of the comments above. . .

Example - It does not matter if you have 100, 200, 1000, or whatever watts, the BTL is the loudest sub sub Fi makes. Let's say you have 1000 watts. The Q is not automatically your best choice as a sub just because you are closer to its power rating. The BTL still has the potential to be louder.

Same thing with the SMD sub. You may not have the power to drive it to its limits, and you might save money buying a BTL, but that does not mean you have to have 3500 watts just to use it and get good performance out of it.

Brian

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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