1979 Starcraft Boat System Build

John · April 9, 2009

Man that is really awesome! I have a boat project I have to start this summer for my buddy and I might have to look into a t-line box for the sub! I was scratching my head on how I would get bass in an open air enviornment to sound good....I think I found the solution! Great work bud!

MATTMAN24 · April 9, 2009

looks great man good work

Neel · April 9, 2009

love the craftsmanship of the build , even every detail like adding more screws to the terminal cup.

cc_audio · April 9, 2009

Thanks for the comments. It gets better. I put the Type R in. Its sounds absolutely beautiful now. Very tight and pounds the lows. Really loves 35herts. Compliments the highs nicely. I couldn't stand the Sony. Way better now. I also stuck the RF 501bd under there. It fit perfectly, couldn't spare any more room. Its like it was meant to be. I forgot to take a picture of the sub mounted, I was in a hurry and the camera wasn't close. Anyway, the output is probably double (seems that way). Had a bunch of friends stop by. They were most impressed. One of them (who works at hawkeye boats) was pissed, cause my single R was louder than his two 15 CVRs in his 22" Baja. I might even get a job at hawkeye (where I priced the wakeboard tower). His first question was "What kind if sub is in there?" I told him its not the sub, its the box you put it in. Then I told him it was an 18" and he believed me. The whole boat rattles like crazy but that doesn't bother me. I'm sure as hell not hushmatting the whole boat. I'm pretty sure I can do a hairtrick, trouble is driving it to comps.

"You can hear me fo you see me I got king kong in da boat!" http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

Excuse me Mr. Meade, can we get our own boat section? We'll call it SMD "SEA MOTIVATED DESIGNS"

Here's the 501bd nice and snug.

Batteries float at a nice 13V. Very impressed with these batteries. They drop to about 11.8 when heavy bassing.

Man I love these subs! I won't be limited on space with these. Should I build a dual T-Line for his truck or just go huge ported? In the market for about 1200-1500W amp to run these (since I stole his amp).

qu1cks1lver56 · April 9, 2009

t-lines are never a bad idea as long as the subs meet the requirements.

moh.vze.com · April 9, 2009

Did somebody say Starcraft!!!?

cc_audio · April 9, 2009

t-lines are never a bad idea as long as the subs meet the requirements.

Like what? If the Fs is real high or the the Qts is higher than .40-.50 (depending on size) just tune to amps bass boost or around 40-45 hertz. You can make a T-Line work with any sub if you really want to. Unless you have two 18's, the box would be MONSTROUS but it would still be the best box (I think). Size is the only limitation for T-Lines. I recommend them first before anything else, unless you don't have the space that is.

Forevrbumpn · May 7, 2009

That turned out really nice man!

Bass boost can help, but can also damage, just be careful with that- Oscope or volt meter to measure voltage drop to find out if your clipping or not will be important, and then just back down some

But that box looks pretty factory, I bet it sounds wicked!

cc_audio · May 7, 2009

That turned out really nice man!

Bass boost can help, but can also damage, just be careful with that- Oscope or volt meter to measure voltage drop to find out if your clipping or not will be important, and then just back down some

But that box looks pretty factory, I bet it sounds wicked!

Thank you sir! Absolutely blew me away. I have now decided T-lines are the only enclosures that should be run in open environments. This box is amazing, best sounding boat setup I've ever heard. It worked out so well, thanks for the box specs by the way. You are a genius. Now if I can get this 18" up and running.

cc_audio · August 2, 2009

Well, the T-Line is ruined. We almost sank the boat and kinda ruined it. The bilge pump died while we were at the beach and the boat has a leak in one of the seals in the lower unit of the outboard (been fixed since). Any way we got in the boat and noticed the back of the boat was flooded, badly. We had to chug it home wide open. The resin on the box could resist a little water here and there while getting in and out of the boat, but being submerged halfway was a little much. So, I will be building a new enclosure, this one towards the front since the other box was too big to be back by the motor, I could hardly get the boat to plane out wit the box back there. I installed the tower speakers and some rear speakers as well. Loud as hell, but no bass I can hear the music as clear as day when I'm wakeboarding, which is awesome. Also built a wakeboarding rack out of stainless. Yes, that is rust, I used a dirty wire wheel and contaminated the welds with some steel, whoops. I'll take some better pics tomorrow of everything together. I keep forgetting everytime we go out to grab the camera. Total cost of the entire boat including licencing and outboard repairs is just shy of $500, which is a lot cheaper than a $30,000 mastercraft or searay.