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Subwoofer Suggestions


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Posted

I currently have two 08SoloBarics L7 12" running on a RF t10001bd mono amp. Doors and rears are Kicker ss componets running on a RF 400.4 amp. Im thing of two 12" btl, 2 12" bl or 2 12" DC lvl4. What do you guys thing would be best? Keep in mind its a trunk setup and I could wall it but only if it still all in the trunk to where i can close the seat and have passengers. Reason I want to upgrade is my 2 08s12l7's sounded punny to a single 12" fi bl. WOuld walling my current setup make it sound better??? Anyways Im off to work ill check back when I get home.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

Posted
I currently have two 08SoloBarics L7 12" running on a RF t10001bd mono amp. Doors and rears are Kicker ss componets running on a RF 400.4 amp. Im thing of two 12" btl, 2 12" bl or 2 12" DC lvl4. What do you guys thing would be best? Keep in mind its a trunk setup and I could wall it but only if it still all in the trunk to where i can close the seat and have passengers. Reason I want to upgrade is my 2 08s12l7's sounded punny to a single 12" fi bl. WOuld walling my current setup make it sound better??? Anyways Im off to work ill check back when I get home.

What box are the L7's in now? I think that you need more power regardless what you want to do. With 1k watts a single BL or lvl 4 could be an option.

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1

Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's

Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz

Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood.

Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars

Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2

Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz

Posted

you used the word ground pounder. imo 2 12s isnt that. but get some level 4s and another of the same amp and the right box and it should sound alot better in all aspects then your Solo's

Posted
What box are the L7's in now? I think that you need more power regardless what you want to do. With 1k watts a single BL or lvl 4 could be an option.

Box is a custom box I made. The box is dual chamber L: 36.75” W: 24” H: 14.75” each chamber is 2.9 cubes before port and sub displacement 1.944 cubes after port and sub displacement. Which means more bumps in the trunk!!

Here is the plan I used.

2l712sep4.jpg

2l7125eo9.jpg

2l712s4jw1.jpg

2l712s2bx9.jpg

And here is a couple of shots of the box, don't mind the caluking lol I almost sealed it it without taking any shots of the inside of the box lol...

PICT0108-1.jpg

PICT0104-1.jpg

PICT0106-1.jpg

PICT0109-1.jpg

PICT0128.jpg

PICT0137.jpg

PICT0133.jpg

DOn't get me wrong I love the setup... Maybe there is a way to get more out off the setup?? Like idk like... I could make a surround that only allows the presure to go forward into the cab. That would help? Btw the amp I use the true rms @ 1 ohm is actually 1467 iirc.

you used the word ground pounder. imo 2 12s isnt that. but get some level 4s and another of the same amp and the right box and it should sound alot better in all aspects then your Solo's

Well.. what I ment was I want it to be noticeable louder than my current setup without having to take out the rear seats lol... What would be better 2 12 lvl 4s (or fi btl) with a proberly tuned and ported box or......... 1 12 lvl4 (or fi btl) in a t line box??

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

Posted
Are you using chaulk for adhesive in your enclosure?

I made the box like idk November but I used T-Rex Caulking. Its pretty good stuff, strong and orderless.

cant go wrong either way. but i agree get another t1000 and you will be set. and seal the box from the trunk so that their is less rattling from the trunk.

If I stay with the 08s12l7s I should add another t1000? Or you ment for the lv4 and ot blt? But yeah I plan on getting another amp if i run something else.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

Posted
If I stay with the 08s12l7s I should add another t1000? Or you ment for the lv4 and ot blt? But yeah I plan on getting another amp if i run something else.

I meant with the lvl 4

Team Bass-Hz

Posted

Your box turned out nice, but those subs are not going to sound their best that way because of cancellation. I will bet that if you turn that same box around, it will sound a lot better. If your setup allows, try it and see.

The reason for this effect is that sound travels in all directions at once. When it comes out of your subs, it goes both forward and backwards at the same time. When the bass reaches the rear of the car, it tries to go out the trunk but the trunk won't let it. The trunk doesn't fly apart so it pushes the sound back in the OPPOSITE phase as the original wave. That opposite wave then proceeds to murder some of your good sound. It is just gone. Lower dbs, lower boom, everything.

The frequency this effect takes place varies with the distance of the subs from that back wall. If you must put a box in your trunk, you'll want to put the subs as close as possible to the back wall for minimal cancellation.

Good luck!

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