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Fuse After Back Bat. To Amp


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No point putting one after front battery if your not gonna put one before back battery... Save the front but not the back huh... Am I right or what....

Passport Build Here

Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start

HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78

Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH

Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's

Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped

Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube)

Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q

Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5

Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C

Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5

Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4

Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4)

Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter

Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack

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I am with got bass

i dont need to know your sexual preference, im asking about fuses :P

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well if you get a short in the middle the front fuse pops, but the back battery still is going to short out and do whatever its gonna do once shorted out.

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Ideally you should have 3 fuses - 1 at each end of the run from front to back and 1 between the back battery and your amp/s.

You have to ask yourself - could this ever somehow become short? If it falls out of the amp's terminal, where will it go? If you're happy enough that it's not going anywhere (happy enough to stake your car on it) then you don't need a fuse :)

For amps with no fuses... I don't add an extra fuse for them personally. If the power supply fails 'short' then the parts tend to noisily and explosively remove themselves from the current path until there's nothing left conducting :)

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Say you dont have a fuse at both ends of your powerwire and you have a rear bat as well. If your power wire should happen to get rubbed through and ground out in the middle of the run, and you are only fused at the front, you will still have power feeding from the rear battery after the front fuse has blown. with a fuse at both ends you eliminate the current being able to go through the cable at all, therefor eliminating a fire hazard in the instance that would happen being that both of the fuses will have popped...

Edited by kandiman71874

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You don't nessarily need a fuse anywhere but... When something happens and your shit blows up or your car goes up in flames your gonna wish you had a fuse lol

Passport Build Here

Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start

HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78

Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH

Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's

Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped

Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube)

Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q

Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5

Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C

Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5

Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4

Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4)

Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter

Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack

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