Bigg Boy Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 u talking about the three terminals on top I have a gnd to and done have it grounded. Im gonna go try it. Maybe that why my alt doesnt do anything at idle Quote Dodge Magnum with custom 300c front end, laid out on air bags *4) 12" Cadence Daytona walled *1) AudioQue 20k *270a DC Power Alt (Dual coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Yeah, that wire needs grounded. GND means ground. POS is positive, and FLD or FIE is field. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigg Boy Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 my alt harness had the gnd connect I guess through the harness. I will give it a shot tho Quote Dodge Magnum with custom 300c front end, laid out on air bags *4) 12" Cadence Daytona walled *1) AudioQue 20k *270a DC Power Alt (Dual coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Nate from EA said to try a relay off of the ignition wire. Ima give that a whirl tomorrow. I'll do pos and neg off the battery, then ignition in, and regulator out. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 It's officially time to retire the head unit. I get noise as soon as the ignition comes on. I hooked up my mp3 player up to the rca's where the head unit would hook up, and no noise whatsoever. Not even white noise. It's ungodly quiet. As far as the alternator, I charred the connector from my cs-130d (header + connector = fail.) So I have some female connectors in it, and it's working. No flickering lights at all. So it's most definitely something with the alt. I hooked up a 14 gauge wire from the regulator right to my rear battery, I still get the flicker and noise. I am going to take a guess and say my rectifier is going, almost like I'm getting AC backfeed. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 So I did some more troubleshooting. With the head unit hooked up to my jump pack, I get no noise at all. I've got a nasty ground gremlin somewhere. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 (edited) Time to reply again. I'm going to bet a ham sammich that it is the head unit. With it running, its feeding something thru the system that makes baby jesus cry. All grounds read 1/2 ohm or less, it's not grounds. Edited June 14, 2009 by lanman31337 Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Time to reply again. I'm going to bet a ham sammich that it is the head unit. With it running, its feeding something thru the system that makes baby jesus cry. All grounds read 1/2 ohm or less, it's not grounds. its the gay. It finally caught you. lol Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 I got to thinking maybe, just maybe it was the grounds, so I metered every single last one out. I did battery to transmission, battery to body connection, and all were reading less than 1/2 ohm. So I checked directly from transmission to body near where I had my connection, .3 ohms. So for giggles I sanded down every single last ground terminal, and where it sits. All clean, ohms still read the same. Beautiful I says. I hooked the radio directly up to the battery, still noise as soon as I turn the ignition on, and get this, if I hook up just the rear RCAs for my rear channel on my amp, I get noise from the front speakers. So it has to be something with the radio backfeeding voltage through the system, (I'm guessing some AC) to cause the static everywhere and the crosstalk. With my radio hooked up to a jump pack, it worked perfectly, however in the jump pack it had nothing to backfeed into except itself. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kian Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) Material list: Automotive SPDT relay switch (Radio Shack) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=22495 12 AWG wire (You will be rewiring almost everything and upgrade from the 16 AWG) Butt connectors (For the bottom of your relay switch you will need 4 of them) Step 1. Get a accessory line from your head unit. run it to your relay switch #86 Step 2. Ground your relay. #85 to the ground or chassis of your car. Step 3. Run a constant 12 Volts to the relay #87. (Straight from your battery) Step 4. From the relay #30 run a wire from this to your voltage controller. (Don't plug in anything yet, just make sure it is long enough) Step 5. On your voltage controller there should be a yellow 16 Gauge wire. (If not yellow then the wire to your left, where the dial is) Remove that wire. Now with the new wire you ran to your Voltage controller #30 run that where the yellow wire is (Or the color of the wire that was in the left side) Step 6. Leave the middle wire alone. It should be black. Step 7. Where the plug is at your alternator there should be a yellow wire with a white stripe, cut that leave about 4 inches from the alt plug. Step 8. Run a new wire from your voltage controller to the cut yellow wire at the plug. Solder it or crimp it. Now on the right of the voltage controller there should be a blue wire, disconnect it. and screw down the wire you just ran to the plug to the voltage controller. When you turn your car on and your head unit turns on, you should hear a click and then the alt will turn on. Please tell me how you made out, or if you need any help let me know. kian Edited June 15, 2009 by Kian Quote --------------------------------------------------------------- Club 150 (15x.x) Youtube Future Build: 1x 15" T3 TSNS 2x Sundown Audio SAZ3000d Parellel strapped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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