Hotdog Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Can I run a wire strait from Alternator to Battery? I ask this because the wires from my alternator go to fuse box then from fuse box to battery. Is it better to just wire from alt to Battery leaving the other wires intact? or do I have to upgrade Wire from Alt to fuse box, then Fuse Box to Battery? Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben29555 Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 just run it straight from alt to battery with a fuse inbetween Quote My Build Log loud bass songs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 run it from alt to battery. leave the factory wiring intact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQMonte Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Can I run a wire strait from Alternator to Battery? I ask this because the wires from my alternator go to fuse box then from fuse box to battery. Is it better to just wire from alt to Battery leaving the other wires intact? or do I have to upgrade Wire from Alt to fuse box, then Fuse Box to Battery? You can run the power lead from the alt to the battery but should run the ground to the chassis. My only suggestion would be to fuse the power lead according to the current capacity of the wire you're using. Quote Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03 CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6 Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 run it from alt to battery. leave the factory wiring intact I have not done it yet because I did not want there to be a chance of messing up the fuse box.. It was strange because there is multiple wire running from Alt to fuse box. For right now this is just a factory Alt that puts out 135 amps. Now if I upgrade the Alt to a 200 or bigger will I have to add a second battery or not? Will a bigger Alt actually do damage to the battery and as far as that goes will a bigger Alt mess with the Fuse box? Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 You can run the power lead from the alt to the battery but should run the ground to the chassis. My only suggestion would be to fuse the power lead according to the current capacity of the wire you're using. I have already grounded to Battery to Chassis with 2ga... I have not done a major investigation yet but where can you find the Ground that goes from Engine block to Chassis? Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 One other question.. as you can see the Distribution block on the battery has a volt meter on it.. Now when I am at idle radio off it reads 13.6 When The AC is on and radio at full tilt it bounces from 13.6 to 12.6 but never lower then 12.6. My system in my sig.. what are your recommendation on possible ALT + Battery upgrades that will give me what I need for the system to be happy. Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQMonte Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 I have already grounded to Battery to Chassis with 2ga... I have not done a major investigation yet but where can you find the Ground that goes from Engine block to Chassis? First, multiple successive posts isn't necessary, just click the "quote" button on each post you want to reply to and then click "add reply" so you can respond to all of them in a single post.The ground from block to chassis is different on each vehicle, however, that ground is there basically to ground out the alternator, which is grounded to the engine block, which is grounded to the chassis. That being said, you can use a bolt on the alternator bracket and run it to the chassis in the spot of your choice, just make sure to grind the surface down to bare metal. Quote Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03 CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6 Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomabanga1986 Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 on alt wise, my alt is 70 amps n i done the big three in 0guage n mine flotes around 14.x volts, with air or radio full tilt doesnt go below 13.8, but i just replaced all my ground wires with 0guage due to the fact that they was only 10-12guage n wouldn't of helped any if they was still there or not, but if ur factory grounds are 4guage ied keep em n just add to it, n i just ran a wire from my alt to a fuse, then to a dist block( i have 2 batterys) then to battery pos, n make sure u sand the spot to bare metal befor u do ur upgrade n dont tightin the bolt or w/e u use to attach ur grounds cause the sheet metal is thin n it will strip, i stripped about 3 holes befor i got mine right, n has worked every since heres some pics of my big three if that helps from chassis to block from chassis to battery neg alt to fuse holder n dist block n battery pos, the round fuse holder goes to rear battery, the other one goes to alt Quote here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomabanga1986 Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 hope that helps, or clears up any of ur questions, the only wires i left was factory alt wire, n just ran a wire str8 from the alt to battery pos threw a fuse holder, n wala and on the secondary battery, it depents really when i first added my extra battery my mids n highs amp sounded like it got a 100w boost in power, my mids are alot louder n midbass alot cleaner, n subs sound awesome to, but a extra battery helps if u run around 1000w or more, i never tried runnin anything around 1000w without a second battery or atleast a cap cause i dnt want to mess up anything Quote here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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