Decaf Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 the double baffle either has to be included in the 24" height, or im asking if the total height could be 24.75".... otherwise the box will have to get deeper again
newls1 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Posted July 10, 2009 24.75 is no issue. If 25 is easier for you, then do that. What ever is easier for you....Thanks again I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny
JasonJones Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 im not follwing you? What I think a baffle is, is just a second copy of the "top" board right? If so, Im just going to double up on the top board right?. I really dont want to go higher then 24 if I dont have to. 25 and up, the box will be in my rear view mirror. Not a big deal by any means, but I just hate the way it looks. With that much power and cone area I highly doubt you'll have a rear view mirror for long! Good luck in the build!
Decaf Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 heres some bracing, almost done, this pic doesnt include the 2 baffles
treossi Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 thats a sick looking box, can't wait to see this build, so hurry up Team sundownWESTCOASTSPL.COM we're throwing dbdrag events very soon visit the website for details
newls1 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Posted July 10, 2009 very nice. Can I put the drivers a little more evenly apart? I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny
Decaf Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 what do you mean evenly currently the subs are placed where they are to fit a 2x4s the way it is, with the 4" width section making contact with the baffle vs just 2," that would also be the strongest placement and you want the subs farther away from the port as possible just let me know what u need to change because the box changes with every little difference i assumed 3cuft total for sub and bracing disp, which might be a bit high, either way the less volume you take up the lower it will be tuned and the more volume it will have, which is good for looooowwwwsss do you know how to weld allthread like i have it in the pic? ideally you want every piece of all thread to intersect with another for a concrete strong box
Decaf Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 top side front still need to finalize bracing to get tuning but... looks like its gonna be a sick box... a plexi window would be shweeet
newls1 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Posted July 10, 2009 I dont know how to weld, but I can see what I can do. Plexi window will be a sure thing. I was thinking about that as-well. That is the biggest port I have ever seen. Thanks decaf, looks amazing, and I really thank you for the time you have into this. I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny
Decaf Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 well if you cant weld... then make sure the allthread barely touches and just fiberglass the joints just make sure you fiberglass everything, and do little resin 45s, maybe and inch or two it would really help if you can round over all the wood involved in the port too you never mentioned sub placement, are they ok where they are at? if so im gonna run my numbers and give you a final volume and tuning it is a big port, basically each sub gets 1 port section if you want to think of it that way, and each is 100sqin... so 100sqin/7cuft = 14.2sqin/cuft it should be very loud and sexi with a plexi window on the back side, im assuming, facing the passangers.... get it etched or throw a sticker on the inside, a few LEDs behind the plexi and youve got one desirable looking box/setup
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