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An on going issue...


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:sorry: Aight... i apparently must be doing something wrong here... I have two 18" BTLs powered by a SAZ3500d. My BTLs coils are constantly getting warm. I've matched the gain to the H/U several times tried two different enclosures and adjusted and re adjusted my L/P and Subsonic filters. All this to make sure that i am not clipping. I tried backing off the gain and shit still gets warm. Maybe i am just a noob when it comes to knowledge of subwoofers. For piece of mind can some one give me some advice? Is it normal for them to get warm under normal unclipped power? Thanks.

'05 GMC Envoy

H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD

Subs: (8) SA-12's

Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's

MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0

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by sounds of it your not using an O-scope, so your pretty much in same boat its hard to make sure your not clipping with out one :( as for that sub getting warm, well given it has good amount of power going to it every sub will get little warm. can you judge the heat better for us? is it just little warm, really warm, hot, ect.... and how long of playing them to they start to get warm?

i'm not a pro but i think i heard someone say btls get little warm in one of the posts floating around here, could be wrong tho, but in any case i see you want help with this and i'd like to see you get your answer so maybe some more info on how long you play them befor they get warm and how warm they get would help someone more in the know about that brand could help you

sorry if i couldn't be of anymore help :(

Edited by LordArcane
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They are getting warmer than skin temp but not so hot that you can't hold your hand on it. They usually get like this after 2-3 minutes at full tilt on music. But if i do any sine waves etc. it doesnt take that long. My port area is 128.3in^2, Enclosure is right at 10ft^3 after all displacement. They did get stinky a few times in the past and that is when i backed the gain off.

'05 GMC Envoy

H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD

Subs: (8) SA-12's

Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's

MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0

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by sounds of it your not using an O-scope, so your pretty much in same boat its hard to make sure your not clipping with out one :( as for that sub getting warm, well given it has good amount of power going to it every sub will get little warm. can you judge the heat better for us? is it just little warm, really warm, hot, ect.... and how long of playing them to they start to get warm?

i'm not a pro but i think i heard someone say btls get little warm in one of the posts floating around here, could be wrong tho, but in any case i see you want help with this and i'd like to see you get your answer so maybe some more info on how long you play them befor they get warm and how warm they get would help someone more in the know about that brand could help you

sorry if i couldn't be of anymore help :(

Thought i saw a vid where i think it was steve, but i could be wrong, plugged a BTL 18 into the wall and it didnt even get warm that fast iirc. But i saw someone else say they get warm.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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warmth is normal!!!hot to touch is not..remember you are creating motion 50/40/30/20 cycles a second,you will create heat

07 mote carlo..

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bxi2608,2 10w7's in 4rth order(designed by pete k)ported into cabin via armrest cutout

dc power 260 amp alt-missing link module (15.4v)kicker 1/0 kit deka intimidator under hood

metered 141.0 @ 32hz windows down @ kick,termlab

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Is there any chance you have the bass knob hooked up? and if so did you remember to turn it all the way up before you set your gains?

The other thing did you use a test tone that is recorded 50 hertz at 0 DB?

I preferer a 0db test tone recording or what ever the DB Drag disc is recorded at because for me it helps insure the safety of my subs.

Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one.

"Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go."

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

The Destruction of a person builds character.

 

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maybe ur headunit is clipping

or the material u are playing isnt very clean

they should get warm... any speaker does... as long as you dont smell the glue/former, then it isnt getting hot enough to matter

do you think in ur personal opinion that the subs are moving alot? or not as much as you thought.... could be a issue that they arent loading correctly

the only time u need to set it with a 0db sine wave is for playing sine waves, no normal rap music is that loud... -3db to -6db is good imo

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50 Hz 0 dB is the tone youre supposed to use. An O-Scope is the ideal way to set your gains, but not everyone can afford one/has one. On a tone its alot easier to hear when its clipping. All of the sudden it seems like it got alot louder than before, youre clipping, in my experience. I had access to an O-scope when i set mine, but before i did, i used a DMM and set my gains using ohms law to see what the output voltage should be. Then i backed it off a fuzz.

woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked

You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port...

YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money.

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Is there any chance you have the bass knob hooked up? and if so did you remember to turn it all the way up before you set your gains?

The other thing did you use a test tone that is recorded 50 hertz at 0 DB?

I preferer a 0db test tone recording or what ever the DB Drag disc is recorded at because for me it helps insure the safety of my subs.

I used the TOXIC BASS Radiation CD that i downloaded a few years ago. IDK how it was recorded? As for the remote gain knob i did have it turn to the max when i matched my gain.

'05 GMC Envoy

H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD

Subs: (8) SA-12's

Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's

MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0

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