SundownTL3.2 Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 i personally liek old school for mids/highs better because stuff wasnt as mass produced as they r to mass produced in components. to me they were of higher quality which makes a better sound. today's bass is more power than sound quality. we all want good sounding bass but that itself can be achieved by a properly built box and nice area that doesnt rattle.... i mean yes it is easy to make a farting sound sound good haha...... 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT........... THINKING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfoodstamp Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 i have done the IA20.1 [ vs ] the 2100hcca and the orion will eat it and shit it out in power and SQ -? are you saing the [D] class sounds better than the [AB] class amps. i have a lot of amps some [D] class most are [AB]class and the [d]class just dont sound as good at any power range. I agree with just one more amp. Most 12 volt manufacturers rated their amps at 12 volts some even 11.8 at a lower distortion rate not this p.m.p.o bulsh!t. The difference comes into play with amp technology. The first class d amps I remember came out in 01 or 02 before that a thousand watt amp was 2 foot long and weighed 20 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E a r t h Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 i used to run ZED built US Acoustics in the late 90s. i have to say they were damn good with ratings like .001 thd and 12.9v, i think they were excellent. but with technology constantly getting better, you'd be hard pressed to find something better then what today has to offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSoundz Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Fosgate Power series is still made in the USA http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif Actually effective 2009, RF Power series amps, speakers and woofers are made in Thailand. There is a thread about this in the RF Forums. Here is the link http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/forum/topic...?TOPIC_ID=31989 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eliassami5 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 lol its funny how ppl come back to car audio after a while and they want the biggest and best for $1000 bucks, but they are afraid of more alts and batts...YOU DONT NEED IT. If all you want is a bangin system (probly sounding like a broken record right about now) you can have it for less than $500 if you know what to look for. You DONT need more batts and you DONT need more alts for the kind of system you are gonna run. And i certainly dont believe in the "you get what you pay for" moto all the time, in some cases yes but you wont believe what you can get out of the cheaper things sometimes. What you need to do is start off with a mild system and once you get familiar with the new technology and feel like you need an upgrade then jump up to the sundown/ diablo tech/ DC/ whatever you want, by then ull be ready for the extra batts and alts and all the other headaches that come with a bigger system. 91' Jeep Cherokee - The Heep Just Empty Every Pocket 96' Volvo 960 - The B◘x [sPL_4_U] HiFonics - Alpine Pioneer - Clarion Infinity - Kicker KnuKonceptz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 lol its funny how ppl come back to car audio after a while and they want the biggest and best for $1000 bucks, but they are afraid of more alts and batts...YOU DONT NEED IT. If all you want is a bangin system (probly sounding like a broken record right about now) you can have it for less than $500 if you know what to look for. You DONT need more batts and you DONT need more alts for the kind of system you are gonna run. And i certainly dont believe in the "you get what you pay for" moto all the time, in some cases yes but you wont believe what you can get out of the cheaper things sometimes. What you need to do is start off with a mild system and once you get familiar with the new technology and feel like you need an upgrade then jump up to the sundown/ diablo tech/ DC/ whatever you want, by then ull be ready for the extra batts and alts and all the other headaches that come with a bigger system. i agree with ^2 i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vj226966 Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 lol its funny how ppl come back to car audio after a while and they want the biggest and best for $1000 bucks, but they are afraid of more alts and batts...YOU DONT NEED IT. If all you want is a bangin system (probly sounding like a broken record right about now) you can have it for less than $500 if you know what to look for. You DONT need more batts and you DONT need more alts for the kind of system you are gonna run. And i certainly dont believe in the "you get what you pay for" moto all the time, in some cases yes but you wont believe what you can get out of the cheaper things sometimes. What you need to do is start off with a mild system and once you get familiar with the new technology and feel like you need an upgrade then jump up to the sundown/ diablo tech/ DC/ whatever you want, by then ull be ready for the extra batts and alts and all the other headaches that come with a bigger system. I can see stepping up to 1 or 2 batts and maybe a higher output alt,but 6 batts and multiple alts are overkill just to run 2 18s and a Sundown 3500 or Rockford 4000.1.No i wont be able to get in the 150s or high 140s,but if i can get into the low 140s thats loud enough for me.If all goes to plan i will be starting my "budget old school"build in a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 If you can't do high 40's with 2 18's I'm gonna have to call biggest fail ever. I think we're up to 144dB from 2 8's at the shop... 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vj226966 Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 If you can't do high 40's with 2 18's I'm gonna have to call biggest fail ever. I think we're up to 144dB from 2 8's at the shop...No i am not going to be running 2 18s.Im going with 2 15s and a Orion 2100 HCCA.My first plan was to go with 2 18 BTLs and a Rockford 4000.1 or Sundown 3500.To run either of them the extra batts and 300 amp alt was just to costly for me.Being able to get in the mid 140s would be plenty for me.LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1030tooled Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 You are falling into the "market hype" of NOT loud subs. Your old school stuff (in terms of making noise) was much louder. Especially to the human ear. Alot of the old school stuff was based on what was loud in the field of concerts. Car subs today are great for moving tons of air and no noise. They are very good at producing a wide range of hz just because it's in a controled field and can move the air, unlike a concert sub in a car. The concert sub in a car would have a very narrow band width of hz and would distort easier. Nothing wrong with moving air, but explaining this will lead me to effieciancy. The old school sub was very efficient and made noise and took less actual power to do so. The new subs move tons of air, not as efficient(loud), but play alot cleaner and more hz. This is why class D amps are so great now. I remember back when class D technology was coming into play for car audio back in the early 90's. The makers said it produced tons of power, but the down fall was distortion because of the modified sine, it was square, unlike a class A amp which is a true(wave, not square) sine. This is how the class D amp got it's name...."Class Distortion" A sub with high sensitivity on a class D amp will show how dirty the sound is! Even at no volume, the sub will move crazy like. Unlike the low sensitive subs (that move tons of air) on a class D amp the sound is clean. This is also why the subs that move tons of air need tons of power. Unlike the subs back when we were kids, that took less power to produce noise. In terms of noise output, which is louder? Debatable? And this could get nasty. All car subs today require to be in the car to be loud(or to create the air movement). I remember a time, when I would be in the house and all day long you could hear people with the loud car audio drive by.......now you don't. And I know a few big guys around town pumping the crap out of their stuff,.........you just don't hear it. Be easy guys..! LOL 93' Ford Aerostar Alpine head unit 4-5.25 MB Quarts 20-10" pyramids super Pro 1 Lanzar amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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