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get a bigger amp

Vehicle: 1995 Impala SSHead Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BHMids And Highs: (still deciding)Batteries: 1 Deka Group 34

Time to make a race car.My Build Log: Solo X 12"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build/My Build Log: DC lvl 4 xl 15"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build-My Wall Build Log: 4 Lanzar 15's/ 3k+ RMShttp://www.stevemead...t-by-techforce/My Feedback:http://www.stevemead...1

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most cars are louder with the windows down (to the ear atleast)

and idk about silverados specifically, cuz noone wants to do anything other than an under/behind the seat box, and a single slim 12 shoved under/behind a seat will always sound like a single woofer wedged in a tight space.

its just that some stuff doesnt work well. Big sub up boxes in older jettas for instance(like a 4-15 box, even with 3kw it was....eh). And some stuff works better than you'd expect, like 2 12's back, side port,40hz, in a blazer. I dont know the exact reason, but i do know that a cvr box in that truck makes most everyone happy.

oh, sub up port to passenger side in a ranger was painful loud, but 2 10's and 300 watts. It was a box and amp i literally saw and heard installed 40 times that week cuz we were blowing it out, but in that truck it was astounding.

op, try some stuff. turn the subs up or forward. borrow a bigger amp and see what that does. recheck the settings on your amp and deck (make sure lpf's are 80hz or so, if u get em low enough it basically just decreases volume, things like that). pop out each sub individually and make sure they are both working. Sometimes something dumb happens like a tinsel breaks, and the sub moves cuz its in the box with the other one, but in essence you have half the power to half the subs.

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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some cars get loud for no reason. I sat in a cobalt with 2 10in sealed kenwoods off a 400watt amp and it was as loud as my 2-12's with 1200 watts. i hate to admit it, but something about those subs and that box and that trunk and that car just clicked and made it beat.

and buicks unfortunately never seem to be loud cars unless something drastic was done. Same with older montecarlos and a couple of lexus's. If you want to get louder just go bigger, more power, more subs, better box. it may seem like it should be louder, but sometimes your car just screws you

same deal, my gf has 2 12's literally running off of 150 rms each and it shakes the entire car like theres a monster in the back

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im not sure but i think my subs are ran like the second one

Vehicle: 1995 Impala SSHead Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BHMids And Highs: (still deciding)Batteries: 1 Deka Group 34

Time to make a race car.My Build Log: Solo X 12"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build/My Build Log: DC lvl 4 xl 15"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build-My Wall Build Log: 4 Lanzar 15's/ 3k+ RMShttp://www.stevemead...t-by-techforce/My Feedback:http://www.stevemead...1

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if you want you should try building an HO Box like the one in my sig pic...I got two W3s powered by a 500/1 in my 99 Seville and it hits hard.

I can get some schematics on dimensions for the box...I didn't build this one though, JL used to make it in like 04 with the older w3's and the shop I went to had the box left over and just update it with v3w3's

Also, if you have speakers in the rear deck then remove them, this will allow air to travel through those holes into your cabin...I had my Bose sub removed from my rear deck to help allow air into my cabin

Edited by wonderbreadSTS

2015 Mazda 6

JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm

2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i

NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical

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wow you guys thread jacked this guy lol.

OP - ok so your running your subs at 4ohms. the amp puts out "750w" but ill bet thats the max power. you never actualy reach max power. its more like the number the amp can reach just before blowing up. chances are it only puts out 350w so you only have 175w per sub. this might give you a good idea as to why your not as loud as you think you should be. invest in a REAL amp. if it doesnt tell you the RMS power, dont even look at it.

while you wait for your new amp, read around on these forums. learn how to set your gains with a DMM so you dont blow things up when it arives.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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you could always cut out the back deck, geting the air out of the trunk is the hardest part

~2006 chrysler Sebring~

~2 runs of 1/0 front to back~

~1/0 wire for "big 3"~

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4 spl-hx 12'' dual 2

2 dtr 1.3400

3 c&d terminologies 1000s

100 aH Each

piccso 6.5 comps

pinoeer avh 4900dvd

pioneer xm box

blue gauges

custom dave the box guys box

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new stuff on the way

Team

Soundstream

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