arnold1992 Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 i just strip the rubber twist the wire and electrical tape it up lol RE se xxx 18d2 (4) Audioque 2200 (2) DC Power 270XP blue 3 C&D fr310 Stinger wiring CDT components
dsmdan Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 I like that idea of some high quality ring terminals bolted together as well. I have nothing against tape or wire nuts I just like more finess and good looks too. -Dan Kasun 05' Dodge Ram 1500 QCSB Hemi Blow-thru build in progress. 2 RD HW18's, RD D9, 5 Deka 9a31's, 6th order blow-thru box, Eclipse 7200mkii HU, 140' Knu Kollossus wire. DC Power 270xp Alt, Etc.
SQMonte Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 what are "direct connect subs"? Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03 CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6 Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f
wL<3bass Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 what are "direct connect subs"? Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
wL<3bass Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 But if you got some ring terminals, and solder, just do bolt thru terminals This is what I do. Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
EricR Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 i just strip the rubber twist the wire and electrical tape it up lol i lol'd i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
J00bles Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 I don't use solder.Twist and twist on tops. X2 solder creates resistance, SO twisting the wires and putting a cap on them will yield THE BEST electrical flow of ANY type of connection. 8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee Click to see J00bles' Youtube Channel
wL<3bass Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 X2 solder creates resistance, SO twisting the wires and putting a cap on them will yield THE BEST electrical flow of ANY type of connection. I'll take my "massive" amounts of electrical loss through solder rather than having one of those caps somehow coming undone and shorting my speaker leads. Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
Twistedchild420 Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 Good job OP...same thing i do............ My POS Bass machine-2003 Hyundai Santa Fe on some shitty 22'sBed Liner Paint Job-Pioneer AVH 3200DVD4 DAD BD series 15's in a 4th Order (Bassheads ENT Design)4 Arc Audio XDI2000.1 for the woofers6 Cadence CVL68MBX 6.5's-Cadence CVL88MBX 8's-6 Cadence XT20 Supertweeters2 Arc Audio KS300.4's for mids and tweets1 Arc Audio ALD 10v Line DriverAll Audiotechnix Power wire1 DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator1 XS Power D3400 up front....6 XS Power D3100's in the rearAir Lift 1000 Bags in rear to help with suspensionIf your still reading this GFY.......
loburbon Posted November 1, 2009 Report Posted November 1, 2009 i work with explosives on a daily basis and the best connection is to strip back plenty of wire and braid them together then tape them up. it is super strong and the connections is super tight. it works great for direct connect subs also 2000 gmc yukon 4 sundown Zv3 15's 4 dd m2a's kenwood kdc-x994 2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000 dual alts. 154@37hz and climbing http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3231683 http://www.myspace.com/torque150
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