Jump to content
 
 

Sign in to follow this  
audiofanaticz

Alternator Pros, check this out!

Recommended Posts

Seeing we be having a battle with 350+ amp units between to main companies really gots me thinking on a few things.

Last night I drove home from a part and noticed my alternator crapped out for the 3rd time... Just a small 250 amp unit. This alternator was to be good to go and what not. Ended up making a hour and some minute drive home in the dark on the reserve power of my 2 d3100s..

Ive been researching a little bit and am seeing that I can rebuild my own alternator for ruffly for $90ish (if buying in bulk) to $140ish. So why are these alternators costing so 3 to 4 times the amount of that? Just something Ive always wondered. Im really not concerned with the coinage you charge IF you can provide an alternator to do said power, and make it be reliable. It seems like all I got so far from previous companies is A)Overpriced, B)Overated/priced, and C) Un-reliable.

So I came across this one site which produce a 350 amp unit, only they are doing it a little different then other companies. So this makes me to wonder are they onto something new, while this could be the reason other alts keep burning out?

CS1443-1.JPG

CS144-21.JPG

CS1442-4.JPG

ALTPIC6.JPG

EXTREME DUTY DUAL RECTIFIER The rectifier is the most common cause of alternator failure. It's the only choice for super heavy duty operation. If you are using your alternator to it's extreme, YOU MUST HAVE THIS ALTERNATOR!

For GM Vehicles and other adapted applications Offered in 140, 170, 200, 250, and now on special order 350 amp versions, call for details. With many different front housing mounting configurations, a direct fit in your GM vehicle or adaptive fit to many vehicle types is likely. We have helped with many adaptive applications like Busses, Porsche's, Boats, Fords and many others.

Alternators produce AC current, just like the current from your house wall outlet. Then it uses a bridge rectifier, typically with 6 diodes, to convert the AC current to DC for the battery and vehicles electrical system. With Dual Rectifiers, you get 12 Diodes, which spreads the current load over a much larger area making the alternator twice as durable and twice as efficient at converting the AC current it makes to DC. The many benefits include: less heat build up, less current loss, higher amperage output when hot, more power at idle. Plus, the service duty and life increases substantially. When the rectifier heats up the diodes won't pass as much amperage through them, therefore, the amperage output drops. With our double rectifier alternator you have twice the amperage carrying capacity and double the cooling surface area to keep the diodes cool. This all adds up to...... MORE POWER, LESS HEAT PROBLEMS and GREATER RELIABILITY.

* $279.95....D1-CS144-DR140............New Delco-Remy CS-144 type, 140 Amp Dual Rectifier with New OEM Voltage Regulator

* $309.95....D1-CS144-DR170............New Delco-Remy CS-144 type, 170 Amp Dual Rectifier with New OEM Voltage Regulator

* $369.95....D1-CS144-DR200............New Delco-Remy CS-144 type, 200 Amp Dual Rectifier with New OEM Voltage Regulator

* $429.95....D1-CS144-DR250............New Delco-Remy CS-144 type, 250 Amp Dual Rectifier with New OEM Voltage Regulator

* $499.95....D1-CS144-DR350............New Delco-Remy CS-144 type, 350 Amp Dual Rectifier with New OEM Voltage Regulator

Also available in self-exciting rectifiers for $10 more.

So what do you think of this dual rectifier deal?


ellk.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hhmmmm, interesting! is there link to the site?


REFF'S
My link
EBAY
http://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=true
I love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That has been around for awhile. More rectification is never a bad idea. I dont really like how it sticks out so far. Really limits the applications it will work on. I would prefer much more to get external rectifier. Remote mount.

Way larger diodes, better heat dissipation, etc. Problem is nobody wants to pay the extra to go with it.

There is much more to building a reliable alternator than just the rectifier. 90% of the time the diodes are enough for the application under normal operating conditions.

You need to take a look at why your alt keeps going out and what is failing.

Most common causes of alt failure are regulators going out, doides burning up, insulation on the windings thermally breaking down, and bearings.

Regulators - They go out usually to a heavy duty cycle. Having to go full field or close to it for long periods of time. This is caused by several things..

1. Low output at idle

2. Weak or bad batteries.

3. Too much current draw in relation to amount of alt current available from the alt.

Rectifiers - They go out usually due to duty cycle just like regulators.

1. Too much output current in relation to diode capacity. Need more diode capacity.

2. Bad connections between the alt and batteries/load... positive or ground.

3. Too much current draw for long periods of time. Again, duty cycle

Winding Insulation - It goes for the following...

1. Putting out close to max current for long periods of time.

2. Bad connections at the rectifier.

3. Poor stator construction. not enough varnish on the wire, wires loose..

Alternators have a duty cycle just like anything else. Most would think.. "I got a 350 amp alternator why cant it do 350 all the time". Well... same as a car engine. You can say I have a 400 hp motor that can turn 8000 rpm. What do you think would happen if you turned 8000 rpm on a 4 hour road trip? You would have a blown motor. Same with alternators. Will your engine wear out sooner if your pulling a trailer all the time.. Ofcourse it will. Your alt will go out sooner too if your pullling an excessive amount of current for too long a periods of time.

Now if your alt is failing for bad diodes you have multiple scenarios. Is your electrical system in good shape? Batteries good/charged, connections good, etc. Building a bullet proof alternator is great but it doesnt mean you can blame an alternator for failing when you have multiple problems contributing to its demise.

It does take a little common sense and awareness of what is going on in your system to make sure its running correctly and will last for years to come.

I just thought of something for comparison.... Its like old cars compared to new computer controlled cars. Back then everyone had to be a mechanic to adjust your fuel mixture, choke, timing, points, dwell, idle rpm etc to keep their car running good. Nowadays cars do that by computer 4000 times a second while your driving. I guess our stereo systems and electrical systems are more like old cars. They need a little tune-up and checkout every now and then. :)

I really like where this thread is going.. It will be really good reading.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ahhh! knowledge I love it!


Teamflexissueslong.jpg

06 chrysler 300C Hemi

one mmatts dreadnaut 15 powered by a planet audio vx 2200d

fosgate p200 running planet audio 8" midbass drivers and super compression tweeters

stock battery and a stinger spv44

Irragi 300 amp alternator

big 3 1/0

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/55075-system-in-my-300c/page__view__findpost__p__763656__fromsearch__1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good info there Dom.

Brian, may I ask by who was your most current alt that just went out made by?


2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Good info there Dom.

Brian, may I ask by who was your most current alt that just went out made by?

Brand is in my signature.

As for My charging system, It consists of d3100s, that get a slow 2 amp trickle charge every other night (they have no problem resting at 14volts), a little less now since I have had no real load to drain the batteries since my subs where out getting reconed.


ellk.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So you have a 250 amp MechMan?

U have a 99 tahoe?

You could have several problems. going on.

How much power do you have on your subs?

Your MechMan still under warranty?

yes a 99 tahoe, but its not really about my alternator. Im looking at manufactures outside the audio industry since Im finding it hard to get a quality product at a fair price.


ellk.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name