TahoeDD Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 as already said.. pypes violators... they get loud and sound really nasty! I can vouch for pypes as well, but personally, I'd take SLP loudmouth 1 catback over them, simply because of quality and ease of install. I installed a UPR offroad X-pipe and a Pypes catback on my buddies 2008 mustang GT, dont get me wrong the thing is LOUD LOUD LOUD and sounds hella good but I had problems with some of the clamps and the tubing over the axel knocking a bit. I'm no welder so he'll be taking it to the shop for them to cut some hangers to shorten them a bit. But who knows I've had no other personal experience with pypes so that might of just been one bad set or maybe a bad set for that model of car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddemon0308 Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I can vouch for pypes as well, but personally, I'd take SLP loudmouth 1 catback over them, simply because of quality and ease of install. I installed a UPR offroad X-pipe and a Pypes catback on my buddies 2008 mustang GT, dont get me wrong the thing is LOUD LOUD LOUD and sounds hella good but I had problems with some of the clamps and the tubing over the axel knocking a bit. I'm no welder so he'll be taking it to the shop for them to cut some hangers to shorten them a bit. But who knows I've had no other personal experience with pypes so that might of just been one bad set or maybe a bad set for that model of car. yeah if you look around online alot of the mustang guys have fit problems when they get to the rear of the car and how the tip sits into the exhaust cut outs on the bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 if u want the loudest...go with open headers lol Nah run open heads... Valves wont last long but it will be loud for as long as it runs... Lol Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky A. Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 FLOWMASTER 10 SERIES RACE MUFFLER FTW! BUILD LINK: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112034-2-sundown-18s-98-f-150/page__p__1565972__fromsearch__1#entry156597298 Ford F-150Truck:37" superswamper tsl radials16" ion alloy wheels3" body lift2" suspension liftOffbrand brushguardPIAA driving lights6000K HID'sSystem:2 18" Sundown NightshaedAq3500Custom Fiberglass boxfosgate T1 6x8 Coxialsbass inferno 2000 watt 4 channel2 XS power d3100's0 Gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TahoeDD Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 FLOWMASTER 10 SERIES RACE MUFFLER FTW! very similar to the slp loudmouth 1, except the flowmaster would be cheaper in price, and quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky A. Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 very similar to the slp loudmouth 1, except the flowmaster would be cheaper in price, and quality. idk dude ive heard both on the same car and im gonna have to go with the flowmaster. wasnt indreibly impressed with the loudmouths. BUILD LINK: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112034-2-sundown-18s-98-f-150/page__p__1565972__fromsearch__1#entry156597298 Ford F-150Truck:37" superswamper tsl radials16" ion alloy wheels3" body lift2" suspension liftOffbrand brushguardPIAA driving lights6000K HID'sSystem:2 18" Sundown NightshaedAq3500Custom Fiberglass boxfosgate T1 6x8 Coxialsbass inferno 2000 watt 4 channel2 XS power d3100's0 Gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 it really comes down to the sound YOU like what will be loud on one car... may not be on another what one person thinks is loud/sounds good may not to you trial and error!!! 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abaddon Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 If you want LOUD. True duals are the way to go. If you want something that sounds good and still has volume, then just go glasspacks. Cherry bombs are frowned upon by alot of people because people think it's redneck. but I've ran glasspacks on a lot of my vehicles and it always has a good tone. 3 inch piping should do the trick, too. 2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71 2 12" Kicker CVX's Audiopipe AP15001d Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery Streetwires 0awg Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulO2288 Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 I promise you straight pipes will be your way to go. ITs not a race car so dont run open headers you dont need to anyway. Run straight pipes but dont run the pipes too large you will loose scavenging and the motor will fall on its face. You could probally run true dual 2.25 pipes and you will have great low end or dual 2.5 and have great mid end and top end. You dont want backpressure you need scavenging and thats all about flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smgs92 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 make your own that way its still legal and it can basically be a straightpipe if you dont know how to make one you need a welder fiberglass steel sheet metal and the tubing for what size pipe you plan to use how i've done it is take the tubing thats going to be the going through the muffler drill several holes in it enough to take up most of the space then take the sheet metal wrap it into the shape you want for the muffler weld it together put a cap on one end then take the fiber glass and shove it into the sheet metal so it takes up the space and if you wanna fine tune it for the sound you want dont weld the other cap on but just tack it on so you can add or remove some fiberglass and once your happy with the sound weld the cap on. thats how to make a custom muffler i've done this and it works fine and is cheaper then going out and buying one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.