purplesyrup Posted June 28, 2013 Report Posted June 28, 2013 (edited) Anyone have a tutorial for closed ended terminals? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168386-step-by-step-how-to-video-soldering-sky-highs-power-cable-to-closed-end-terminals-pull-test-page-3/?p=2460072 Edited June 28, 2013 by purplesyrup Quote
Jahosaphet Posted June 28, 2013 Report Posted June 28, 2013 Anyone have a tutorial for closed ended terminals? This is how i have done in past Us iron or torch to pre tin the wire.. (Cover stripped wire with solder) Put closed end lug in vise. Get the ring term how as hell with torch. Fill with molten solder keep it hot with torch and slowly push wire into terminal Keep it hot with torch a sec to allow some of the solder to wick its way into the wire Hold still and allow to cool But id rather the other type terms. Personally Quote
Jahosaphet Posted June 28, 2013 Report Posted June 28, 2013 Anyone have a tutorial for closed ended terminals? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168386-step-by-step-how-to-video-soldering-sky-highs-power-cable-to-closed-end-terminals-pull-test-page-3/?p=2460072 Quote
Jahosaphet Posted June 28, 2013 Report Posted June 28, 2013 Anyone have a tutorial for closed ended terminals? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168386-step-by-step-how-to-video-soldering-sky-highs-power-cable-to-closed-end-terminals-pull-test-page-3/?p=2460072 Pretty much same as my method, but pretining the wire makes a lil better connextion.. And also keeps strands stuck together for easier insertsion Quote
cmiller8006 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Posted July 6, 2013 I was trying to get my wire soldered and the wire wont take the solder. I have tried rosin core like Steve said, I have tried silver bearing, with and without flux, I even cut a piece of wire off and heated it until the rubber melted off and it will melt but wont take up the solder. Whats wrong lol? I thought I bought ofc but turned out to be cca from knuconceptz. Quote
cmiller8006 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Posted July 6, 2013 I don't take defeat good at all, so I went back out there and tried it again. Added some more flux to it and that seemed to do the trick. Still not perfect but alot better then before. Quote
Brandonbkd Posted July 12, 2013 Report Posted July 12, 2013 FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND! 1 Quote FI BL18 Build Log: CLICK HERE!! 2003 Explorer Sport: FI BL18 SoundQubed 2200 at 0.7ohm Pioneer DEH-2500UI Pioneer 6 x 8s Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9s 5 ft^3 box at 35hz Lots of Mega Mat
dharris2488 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Posted May 12, 2014 Flux is some serious stuff... Once I inserted my 1/0 into the closed end filled with molten solder, it was like an instant bond! Bonded so quickly that I couldn't get some of my wires seated all the way down to the end of the terminal. I tried pulling the terminals off as hard as I could pull, and it wasn't going anywhere! They are still good connections and don't seem to be coming loose at all. I noticed no one mentioned to sand the inside of the terminals for a better bond. I always sand out the inside with my Dremmel tool, then add small amount of flux, heat the terminal and fill it up with molten solder, then as quickly as i can keeping safety in mind, jam the wire into the lug. Solid hold withing 2-3 seconds. Quote 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere
ILuvJDM Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) When I did mine I decided to take a wire brush to the gold plated ring to clean up all the flame marks and the point where you melt solder. Question is did I just make my terminals susceptible to corrosion or rust? I see a small ring of orange around one of my ground connections on my passenger side battery that appears to be rust or corrosion (no picture). I did this for my Big3, or more like a Big 6 for my duramax, but it has only been on for about a week so I'm worried about the longevity of it. I bought techflex and more heat shrink so I have to pull the wires out anyways to dress them up but I'm wondering if I should buy new terminals and redo everything without brushing off the gold plating this time around. Here is a example of a terminal I did: Edited May 12, 2015 by ILuvJDM Quote
prodigal_son Posted June 10, 2015 Report Posted June 10, 2015 Definitely use flux, and if the solder doesn't flow, add more flux. It's not necessary to sand the inside of the terminal so it's bright, you're chemically cleaning it with the flux. I'm suprised that no one mentioned solder pellets for the big closed lugs? Or tin/solder pots for tinning wires? Tinned wires aren't always the answer though. If you twist em round and tin them for insertion into your amp outputs, you ultimately give up a lot of surface/transfer area versus a flattened cable, tinned or not. If you leave your twisted up cables bare, they flatten and spread out easier. Quote
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