mikey634 Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 I've had to make a couple cutout's lately, such as this picture of my dash build (currently on day #1!) I had to cut the MDF to fit that hole in the dash, and then I had to cut the MDF to fit that headunit in it. Both times I traced the shape I wanted either directly onto the MDF or onto some cardboard, and transferred it to the MDF. Both times it came out wrong! The shape always gets a little jacked up, with some bulges here or there and a not-tight fit, etc etc. (You can't really see it with the head unit because I put the trim piece on to hide it :01nocomment8so: ) I'm after anyone's tips, tricks, help, etc. on how to make my shaped cut-outs better. Thanks for your time! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmitch Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 when u use the jigsaw dont make the saw cut let it cut u just guide cuz when u force it it tends to make the blade bend thats where ya bulges come from. I know a lil about everything so dont call me Mr. Know it All. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soloact Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 A router and some guide strips would be your best friend. And alittle Duraglass,Everglass,etc would further solve your issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 cut less sand more. lol THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey634 Posted December 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 A router and some guide strips would be your best friend.And alittle Duraglass,Everglass,etc would further solve your issues Hmm... you mean for example straight pieces of wood clamped down like an edge guide for the router? And yeah I'm working on everglass but all I've got right now is bondo and it doesn't want to work with me cut less sand more. lol Do you sand it by hand with just a sheet of sandpaper or with a dremel, etc. ? I tried using a block sander and it wore out before I even got close to making it even lol. I ended up taking the jigsaw and 'shaving' bits off but that didn't work for crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 what came out of the hole? router and a flush trim would make an exact copy. If nothing is available, I use construction paper then transfer to 1/4" mdf. your jigsaw blade will "bend" more in 1/2" so do the transfer to 1/4" ...once that is cherry, then flush trim to 1/2-3/4" 2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soloact Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hmm... you mean for example straight pieces of wood clamped down like an edge guide for the router? And yeah I'm working on everglass but all I've got right now is bondo and it doesn't want to work with me Do you sand it by hand with just a sheet of sandpaper or with a dremel, etc. ? I tried using a block sander and it wore out before I even got close to making it even lol. I ended up taking the jigsaw and 'shaving' bits off but that didn't work for crap. Thats exactly what i mean.You can use 3M double sided tape to hold the strips down(i prefer to use my pin nailer and tack it down). And do yourself a favor...lose the Bondo..yes its cheaper,but its also harder to work with,less time to work with it,it shrinks,and leaves far too many pinholes to contend with.It's not worth it. Another option (if you dont have a router) would be to cut the opening for the h/u...put blue painters tape around the cage for the h/u,slide it into the hole you cut,then fill in around that with Duraglass,Everglass,Kitty Hair,what have you..don't use regular body filler for this..pull the cage out before it sets completely up..alittle sanding,and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey634 Posted December 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Thats exactly what i mean.You can use 3M double sided tape to hold the strips down(i prefer to use my pin nailer and tack it down).And do yourself a favor...lose the Bondo..yes its cheaper,but its also harder to work with,less time to work with it,it shrinks,and leaves far too many pinholes to contend with.It's not worth it. Another option (if you dont have a router) would be to cut the opening for the h/u...put blue painters tape around the cage for the h/u,slide it into the hole you cut,then fill in around that with Duraglass,Everglass,Kitty Hair,what have you..don't use regular body filler for this..pull the cage out before it sets completely up..alittle sanding,and done. damn thats a good idea, using the actual headunit to get a perfect fit and ya i have a router but I'm brand new to it. Took me 4 passes to cut my subwoofer's trimed ring And bondo's all they stock at the local home depot so its easily available, whereas everglass is a UPS ground away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soloact Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 CarQuest carries Evercoat products ..kinda salty,but yeah And if you want to tidy up those cuts where the mdf fit the dash,put some of the 3M blue painters tape on your dash opening,all the way around...i'd put 2-3 layers on,then mount that mdf in the dash where you want it....then fill in around the edges again with Duraglass,Everglass,etc....then,sand it before it completely sets up(whats called the "green stage")..then sand fill,sand fill,primer,and finish with whatever texture/finish you want.Done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Cutting soething out with a jigsaw perfectly straight is not hard at all....like someone said cutless sand more and use a belt sander to perfect it. I know it can be easy b/c I cut this out completely with a jigsaw... Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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