mikey634

7100 lb. But are you gonna sit in it while its being weighed? Add 200 if you are!

If I remember right the two ways to 'verify' you are who you are is by using the ID number on a previous years tax return or by printing out a form with your name, social, etc. that you sign and mail in snail mail. Been a couple years since I did it like that, now I just go to H&R Block and have them sort it all out for 20$ Saves me having to deal with 'tax-free income' blah blah blah.

Nice man! I'm running Kinetik 1200 up front, 3x 3800 in the back, soon-to-install 2x300 Iraggi alts / 1x 320 DC alt, 1 Kicker Warhorse, + rockford amps / mids / highs, etc. !! Crazy similar.... O_o I'm planning on running all alternators to the front battery, then having runs of power wire going from the alternators to the back batteries. So instead of going alts -> front battery -> back battery it'll go: front battery <- alts -> back batteries Just cause that's alot of 0 gauge to be trying to fit onto a single battery terminal! Another thing to remember is if you skip the front battery directly connected to enough power to keep its voltage up, your car electrical will still see a voltage drop, resulting in dimming lights, slow power windows, etc. Nice to see another Warhorse around, I love this thing

I'm sorry, are you paying for forum space? No? Then how about you keep that huge ego somewhere else. You understood what kind of information I was after right? Yeah I had not mounted the tweets at the time just sat them on the dash, but just the sound coming out of them was dwarfing everything else. I had to play with the highpass for the mids because they did not like anything < 100 hz at all (think I settled on 120hz 12db slope) I'll keep messing with it, and if it's still a problem just use an equalizer to turn them down lol. EDIT: oh and speaking of active, what power ARE you running per tweet / mid? I'm not sure if the tweet and woofer are 4 ohms a piece, and the xover is turning it into 2 ohms, and they're rated at 75 W apiece, or...

Do you have your tweeters set on -3 or -6 db? I just got mine in the mail and they had probably about 215 W's going to the xover and those tweeters were kicking my ass Waaay too bright! But I only had them at -3.

Sorry double post.

Yes it would be safe. I have that same amp though, and watch out it gets really hot if you don't give it enough space. EDIT: oh and it doesn't have a crossover on the rear channel, I blew out my first set of speakers because I had full freq's going to them in the back. So if you buy this amp, make sure you have a crossover on your head unit or buy a seperate active or passive crossover.

http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merchan...e=Clear_Acrylic costs 18.50$

I also just bought some off ebay. Looks like the prices have gone up about 20$ in the last two weeks though, all the equipment is now 'New 2010' stuff

Did you seal them up in the door? Or are they still free air?

check out this post Modder's Guide to Acrylic you might have to register on those forums but it is well worth it! This is the blowthrough type box I'm in the process of making right now for the bed of my truck: The green will be mirron plexi on top of MDF, and the clear see through stuff is 1'' cell cast acrylic. It's all explained on that excellent post over on fiberglass forums. BTW this is where I buy my plexi: Devlie's Plastics Inc Post pictures! I love acrylic. EDIT: oh and to get a perfect fit with the acrylic and not have to worry too much about jacking it up, build the box in MDF first (same thickness if you can manage), then flush trim the acrylic to the MDF pieces. Routers are really good at cutting acrylic, jigsaw not so much as it will melt the acrylic from its fast sawing. Good luck!

Damn man that's awesome! That's very similar to my goal, a degree in biochemistry. I wouldn't mind doing the direct disease/microbiology research but I'm more a chemistry freak so I'd be making the medicine itself. I love working out a formula, mixing stuff together, and *poof* out comes something else! I love science EDIT: oh and I'd say try out for the DPT, that way you keep your options open. Even if you decide you don't want to do it later, you'll only be out the application fee and some time, but you can't not apply, and then change your mind later!

I've a model that looks exactly like this, with USB, though I'm not sure if its the exact same. It works very well for me, clips if you use too much of the onboard processor though. I don't regret buying it all

How long you think those would last before you have to clean them? That and price are whats pointing me towards aluminum instead of copper. Can't beat your price though, that's pretty sick!

Does the sub amp light up when the head unit turns on? If it does it eliminates power/ground problems... Otherwise are they both hooked up to the same power/ground source? Like 12v is coming from the same distributor block, and ground is going to a similar spot on the frame? Have you checked if all the wires are in there tight? Have you checked the remote wire going to the sub amp? If the amp IS turning on, is it going into protect? Is your gain and/or bass boost turned up too high? What kind of amp do you have? Have you taken a volt meter to your amp outputs (maybe its your subs?) So many questions and possible solutions, throw a bone over here will ya?

Guys like that piss me off. Oh, you want me to sit in garrison and do nothing all day? Sure I'll take the paycheck and the promotions, but wait... you want me to go do my job? Sorry, count me out. If you don't have the dedication to follow orders that you might not like, don't become a soldier.

R.E. makes some high quality subs, I'm running a 15'' XXX and it definitely slams to its rated wattage and then some. Their subs are just quite pricey imo.

You'll have one ground going from your engine block to your battery, one ground going from battery to chassis, and one power wire, preferably fused, going from alternator to your battery. And this step really does help a ton with lights dimming, you might want to let your buddy know Qts is 0.55 for that sub, so just going off that I'd say a sealed box, but if you go to Rockford Fosgates website it'll show you ported and sealed recommended enclosures.

Nice man that's an awesome skill to have, I was in school to become an 18D - Army Special Forces Medic, but didn't make it all the way through so respect for the dedication for such an essential skill set But remember that though you may be exhausted, there are people that really appreciate what you do (even if you never meet them! lol), so it's definitely worth it

Mmmmmm... Magic smoke. I'm hungry... And do you have one of these special funnels? I'm looking at buying a T400.2 x2

I'm getting it for 250$ in labor per seat for bucket seats + materials (about 225$ for fake leather and suede)

YES! The Big 3 is definitely well worth it! When I was installing mine, it turns out my alternator was connected to my battery with 8 AWG wire and all the grounds are 8 AWG! With only 40$ in wiring and terminals I turned voltage drop from 14.2->13.0V into 14.4->13.9V - it was awesome! And not so hard to do either...

I'm looking for anyone with a Rockford Fosgate 400.2 amplifier or some T1652 6.5'' power component sets '09 lying around. I'll be buying in mid-January, but I'm currently just looking around, maybe someone got some new speakers for Christmas and is looking to switch out I'm looking for 2x 400.2 amps 4x (pair of) T1652 You can PM me or post here, works for me! Thanks, Chris.

I hear ya, you just gotta be firm. Say hey, I love you and I want to visit you, but you don't have ownership of me or anything, so if I visit, that's all, I'm just visiting. I get it all the time in the Army. My girl's parents want us back in SC, but my folks want us in FL... A phone call goes a long way ok? Merry f'ing Christmas. *click*

Yeah, if the car isn't grounded, then no electricity will flow, and no sparking. Make sure the negative is completely disconnected, like, no grounding to chassis, engine block, etc.