BoxingBuffalo Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 FYI, if you haven't read any of my early posts, I'm a noob. Again. I first got into car audio like 16 years ago, lost interest for like 10 years, and now I'm back. So, I'm trying to catch up on what's what. Terminals for my box. Check the photo, that is what I'm rolling with now which was the standard back in the day. But I'm wondering if these are bunk. Should I just go straight from the woofer to the amp and pull my wires through the port and go no terminal or what? Does it matter? I'm running a 12" type x and as of tomorrow a T1500-1bd. I did a search on the forums for a discussion about this and didn't come up with anything. 1993 Chevy Suburban Optima Yellow Top Kenwood KDC X-993 Pioneer GM-X314 mids amp Kenwood KFC-4675's up front Kenwood KFC-415C in back Fosgate T1500-1bd Alpine 12" Type X (Coming eventually: Fosgate T400-4, T1652-S, XS battery, Big 3, h.o. alternator, 18"???) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 dont run the wires thru the port it looks like shit, get some 1/4 bolts/nuts/washers do bolt/terminal/washer/box/washer/terminal/nut My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barros57 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Dont run the wires thru the port. And I dont use these terminals/I dont trust them. They are so hoaxy and cheap. Im sure you loose power and sound quality. I would just drill 2 holes in the side of the box right next to eachother, just large enough for both wires to come out of. Then just seal it with caulk EDIT: or yea, you could always do the bolt method. haha just dont let anything touch both bolts sticking out of the box... My 93 chevy truck Orion HCCA 15's Build 6K HID's 2 orion HCCA 15.4 2 AP30001D's 2 optima yellowtops, 2 C&D 270fr's, all 3 tsunami 1/0, CS144 190 amp Rockford p200-2 Rockford p200-2 Rockford p300-1 Kole KX1 5500D -broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kl0wn Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 I'd go with what logan said. That's how I got mine ran and I love it. So much easier to remove the woofer and stuff than going through the box with the wires and caulking it. 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barros57 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 depends on the install...but either bolts or caulk methods are way betther than speaker terminals or wires thru port My 93 chevy truck Orion HCCA 15's Build 6K HID's 2 orion HCCA 15.4 2 AP30001D's 2 optima yellowtops, 2 C&D 270fr's, all 3 tsunami 1/0, CS144 190 amp Rockford p200-2 Rockford p200-2 Rockford p300-1 Kole KX1 5500D -broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hellbound Train Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Bolts or wire through box with caulk. Hell even the wire in port is better than the terminals because atleast then you dont have to worry about the shit blowing out of the box and having to glue it back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxingBuffalo Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Yet again, thanks guys. Does it matter what caulk I use? I always used GE Silicone II for pretty much all car audio sealing back in the day. I'm about to make a Home Depot run. Suggestions? 1993 Chevy Suburban Optima Yellow Top Kenwood KDC X-993 Pioneer GM-X314 mids amp Kenwood KFC-4675's up front Kenwood KFC-415C in back Fosgate T1500-1bd Alpine 12" Type X (Coming eventually: Fosgate T400-4, T1652-S, XS battery, Big 3, h.o. alternator, 18"???) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qu1cks1lver56 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 i'd either do the bolts or use some nice binding posts edit: ^ i use silicone I instead II. last time i used the silicone II it didnt seem to dry right. maybe i had a bad batch or something? First Gen Xterra: Always changing DNX 690HD RF 360.3RF T3002RF T4004RF T10001bdSilver Flute 6.5"s Tang Band 1" TweetersSundown X18 in 7cubes net tuned to 32hz Trust me .25 Blows your Load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxingBuffalo Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 i'd either do the bolts or use some nice binding postsedit: ^ i use silicone I instead II. last time i used the silicone II it didnt seem to dry right. maybe i had a bad batch or something? Crazy because I just used some II to repair a crack in a 6x9 and it dried like shit and didn't really do anything. I used to use that stuff for everything. I'll check it out. And again, thanks all. 1993 Chevy Suburban Optima Yellow Top Kenwood KDC X-993 Pioneer GM-X314 mids amp Kenwood KFC-4675's up front Kenwood KFC-415C in back Fosgate T1500-1bd Alpine 12" Type X (Coming eventually: Fosgate T400-4, T1652-S, XS battery, Big 3, h.o. alternator, 18"???) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pRoFsWiRlY Posted March 12, 2010 Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 What type of bolts are best for using the bolt method? Ride - 2006 Scion xB Equipment: H.U. - Kenwood KDC-X793 Amps - Memphis 16-MC2.100 Memphis 16-MC1.1100 Front Stage - Memphis 15-MCC6 6.5 Components with silk dome tweets Subs - Memphis 15-M310D4 10" Sub (x2) Custom box 3.02 ft3 after displacement, tuned to 37 hz Big 3 Second Skin Damplifier Coming soon: Kinetik HC1400 H.O. Alt AudioControl three.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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