OBI Posted January 20, 2010 Report Posted January 20, 2010 If you listen to anyone thats posted. Listen to Boon. He knows his shit.
Boon Posted January 20, 2010 Report Posted January 20, 2010 I forgot to mention... I didn't even do the Big 3. 1 0 gauge ground for the battery bank to the chassis and that was it. I mean, nothing wrong with a bit of overkill but damn, some people take it way overboard on the electrical front. I see people being told they need a 200A alt to run a 1kw monoblock and a 4 channel amp. Shit, your amp isn't going to burst into flames just because the voltage drops below 14.4 And before anyone gets at me about consistent power... take a look at a woofer's impedance plot and tell me what's varying more, the power input to your amp or the power output due to impedance rise... 10.x volts fo' life!
Torres Posted January 20, 2010 Report Posted January 20, 2010 For reserve power in the lanes, when the vehicle is OFF... so they do help...which is what i was gettin at
Percy Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Posted January 20, 2010 so.. honeslty this thread was a major success but i still havent gotten a clear answer to whether i should jus go with a couple extra batteries or a new alternator.. i aint gonna spend more then 500 on the electrical so i dk......
Percy Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Posted January 20, 2010 well guess i shouldnt say it was a success then.. haha but you guys have alot of good points
Torres Posted January 20, 2010 Report Posted January 20, 2010 i'd go alternator with an upgraded battery under the hood. and your electrical is the heart of the system. it shouldnt cost you too much to be able to supply what you need for the amp you want to run, but if you're not willing to spend the cash for it to keep up then the system (if you were to go bigger in your case) should be downgraded.
Percy Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Posted January 20, 2010 but its only 2k rms, if even, wont be playing for very long periods of time, so do i really need to spend the money on a batt AND an alternator?
Percy Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Posted January 20, 2010 what if instead of the aq 2200 that runs 200 amps, i get a hifonics 2010 that runs 150 amps? would i be fine with jus an upgraded battery in the front?
Percy Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Posted January 20, 2010 actually i think i might go with a MB quart DSC-2000.1D
kryptonite Posted January 20, 2010 Report Posted January 20, 2010 When i first had my 1501D in my ranger, i had a pair of Yellow Tops and a stock 130 amp alternator. 1/0 Kicker wire from the front battery to the back battery and from the battery to the amp. No big 3 and no H/O Alt. Massive voltage drop into the low 12s with the truck running and the alternator was brand new and charging at full potential. With the system off i was charging at 14.1-14.3. Currently i have a Powermaster 200 amp alt, one Yellow Top under the hood, Big 3 in Kicker 1/0 and a pair of HC2400s in the cab under the box. I have my defroster at high, my headlights on and the truck idling with the system at full tilt and i barely drop below 14.4. System off i'm charging around 14.6-14.7. I still have an MLA that needs to be wired in as well. Find a H/O alternator and a decent battery, something that'll fit in your engine bay, Kinetik has a good calculator on their website to figure out which battery will fit your needs. I've had good luck so far with Kinetik, I plan on getting 3 more once i get my second amp. Do what your budge allows, but know that you'll need an alt and a decent battery to make the best of a system DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGERCurrently Own 4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option 2 - DC 5k lvl 4 motor lvl 2 motor On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said: this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.