Amp Standards

[dwright27]

really? i never heard of this, thats cool as hell. any chance i can get a link?

i didnt know until around a week ago.

ill see if i cant find one for you.

[HHR Ed]

wat the hell does ur battery have to do wit the car running... if anything u need a better alt inless ur runnin the amp wit the car off then u need a big batt. becuz when the car is running ur power is comin frmo ur alt. not the batt

What Klown said.

when choosing a proper electrical system you should choose batteries adequate to power the amps for an extended length of time without dropping below 10.5v. Thats what I call the damage point.

Then you should choose what alternators are adequate to charge those batteries.

[k3n12ock]

So amps dipping to low 12's with the car running is "okay"?? I'm also waiting for Phatryan69 to reply since he got owned.

[HHR Ed]

So amps dipping to low 12's with the car running is "okay"?? I'm also waiting for Phatryan69 to reply since he got owned.

While its OK, because damage usually happens below 10.5v, It can be better.

Most cars charge between 13.5v and 14.4v.

So it is to be expected to dip into the 12s and there is no problem with that.

If its going into the 11s, you can beef it up to get you back to the 12s, but to stay in the 13s at full power would require switching to a high amp alternator and regulating it at a higher voltage, which isnt good for daily driving and battery life.

[STEvil]

Actually he didnt get owned. When the vehicle is running the power is coming from both the alternator(s) and batterie(s), one as charging cycle and the other as charged capacity. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and will not go from alt to battery to amp. It will pass across the terminals of the battery due to wiring configuration and excess amperage draw that the alternators cannot cover will come from the batteries. Lean amperage draw will mean charge capacity for the batteries.

[HHR Ed]

Actually he didnt get owned. When the vehicle is running the power is coming from both the alternator(s) and batterie(s), one as charging cycle and the other as charged capacity. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and will not go from alt to battery to amp. It will pass across the terminals of the battery due to wiring configuration and excess amperage draw that the alternators cannot cover will come from the batteries. Lean amperage draw will mean charge capacity for the batteries.

Well I think PhatRyan just doesnt fully understand this.

And he doesnt know that there are much more knowledgeable people here. So if he doesnt fully know what he is saying, he can read and learn a bit.

And what you said is correct and should be mentioned.

Lets say you have a 120A alty. with the vehicle running, the car's electrical may draw 20-30A

so you have 90-100A capable left. thats peak performance at a certain RPM BTW.

a 2000w amp will draw about 200A.

so the batteries must be capable of supplying that extra current.

The alty will charge at 14.4v, with any current draw it will drop significantly. Once it drops below 12.6v (which is the batts resting voltage) The batteries will be supplying current to the batteries.

When the current draw ceases, the alty will continue to charge the batteries.

[STEvil]

Ed - I agree, just attempting to straighten it out a bit, the "owned" thing I find a bit childish and unproductive.

[HHR Ed]

Ed - I agree, just attempting to straighten it out a bit, the "owned" thing I find a bit childish and unproductive.

Thats true, we can all be civilized and have a nice knowledge sharing thread

[Boon]

Wanna take your battery(s) out and try to turn your car on please?

The power is coming from your battery, your alternator is recharging the battery(s) so these thing(s) can continue to feed off of the battery(s).

Errr.... when my battery mount snapped I started the car, pulled the battery out then drove ~10 miles home without a battery in the car... with the headlights on. Worked well enough for me

[treossi]

yep that's possible.. i wouldnt do it all the time