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Just get the audiopipe 3k and run it since your at 2ohm anyway.

I dont have the funds to drop on another amp.

Truck 1 96 Silverado Ext cab

4 JL w6v2 12"s

2 JL 1000/1's

2 sets of JL XR components

RF 4 Chan

Blowthrough

141.5 @ DB drag street max 3-4

148.8 outlaw.

Truck 2 silverado 2500HD Ext Cab- Building this truck now

4 RE SE 10"

JBL BPX 2200.1

Soundstream 4 chan

JL XR comp

RF 3 ways

Subs under rear bench lifted 4"

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well, you either sell the subs or you sell the amp. your subs are new so might as well sell the amp and have all new stuff.

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If your nominal is at 2 ohms then you will easily be over 4 ohms reactive. I honestly see that box producing more than 2 ohms of rise anyway so you'll realistically probably be in the 5-6 ohm range when it's all said and done.

Also on the resin on the inside of the box thing, I always resin the inside of my boxes. Not only does it provide less resistance and drag with a slicker surface like you said it keeps the mdf from breathing. All mdf is is compressed saw dust and believe it or not air can actually pass through it from the super high pressure built inside a loud sub box. By resining the inside that keeps any pressure (which is very very little at all to begin with) from leaking out the "pores" in the wood. I've seen the resining of one coat help my spl by as much as .4 db. I've heard people say that maybe it's because I took away volume inside the box but it's been as little as 12oz of resin just enough for a thin coat on the interior of the box and there is a gain. So it's not even displacing .01cuft from the box so that tell me that the gain is from either both the slicker surface or sealing the "pores".

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If your nominal is at 2 ohms then you will easily be over 4 ohms reactive. I honestly see that box producing more than 2 ohms of rise anyway so you'll realistically probably be in the 5-6 ohm range when it's all said and done.

Also on the resin on the inside of the box thing, I always resin the inside of my boxes. Not only does it provide less resistance and drag with a slicker surface like you said it keeps the mdf from breathing. All mdf is is compressed saw dust and believe it or not air can actually pass through it from the super high pressure built inside a loud sub box. By resining the inside that keeps any pressure (which is very very little at all to begin with) from leaking out the "pores" in the wood. I've seen the resining of one coat help my spl by as much as .4 db. I've heard people say that maybe it's because I took away volume inside the box but it's been as little as 12oz of resin just enough for a thin coat on the interior of the box and there is a gain. So it's not even displacing .01cuft from the box so that tell me that the gain is from either both the slicker surface or sealing the "pores".

Well I guess I am gonna be ok then with the 2 ohm. Thanks for posting actual testing on the resin. I have heard its pointless and Ive heard its amazing. So either way if I gain or not its done. Every little bit helps. I might do a little more after I put the top on the box. I also plan on siliconing the cut outs on the aeros too. Make sure everything is extra air tight.

Truck 1 96 Silverado Ext cab

4 JL w6v2 12"s

2 JL 1000/1's

2 sets of JL XR components

RF 4 Chan

Blowthrough

141.5 @ DB drag street max 3-4

148.8 outlaw.

Truck 2 silverado 2500HD Ext Cab- Building this truck now

4 RE SE 10"

JBL BPX 2200.1

Soundstream 4 chan

JL XR comp

RF 3 ways

Subs under rear bench lifted 4"

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just bump them at 2 ohms. and i like using resin on the inside of boxes i use it because MDF "breathes", in my oppinion using resin makes a more solid box

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yeah.. your going to have some pretty good rise running 4 woofers... just make sure you have strong electical to help protect the amp...

and dont worry about silicone... the resin is your best bet.... it wont make the box any stronger without fiberglass... but it will make sure everything is sealed

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yeah.. your going to have some pretty good rise running 4 woofers... just make sure you have strong electical to help protect the amp...

and dont worry about silicone... the resin is your best bet.... it wont make the box any stronger without fiberglass... but it will make sure everything is sealed

So you wouldnt silicone around the ports where they were fed in? I would think that is the perfect place to loose air. I dont think I will need any internal bracing on this thing though. Its pretty solid as it is. Plus the seat is right on top of he box.

Truck 1 96 Silverado Ext cab

4 JL w6v2 12"s

2 JL 1000/1's

2 sets of JL XR components

RF 4 Chan

Blowthrough

141.5 @ DB drag street max 3-4

148.8 outlaw.

Truck 2 silverado 2500HD Ext Cab- Building this truck now

4 RE SE 10"

JBL BPX 2200.1

Soundstream 4 chan

JL XR comp

RF 3 ways

Subs under rear bench lifted 4"

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Keep the amp.

I think it will actually work out in your favor running it at 2 ohms, it will easily rise to 4+ at most frequencies outside of the tuned frequency. Those are pretty badass amps, I don't think you'll have any problem getting power from it.

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