jojo42 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) Instead of using the normal terminals any prefab box would have, not positive if you need to insulate them or not but how would one go about using bolts instead? I'm about to build a box for a Fi BTL 18" and I figured bolts would be better. Edited February 19, 2010 by jojo42 Quote 2012 Ford Ranger: Build comming soon! Kenwood DNX-6160 DC 175.4 2 sets of O2 AR63 3-way Comps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) Bolts work fine, just make sure you mark them to know which is positive and which is negative, and make sure they're a decent distance apart and really tight. Ring terminals would probably be the easiest way to connect the speaker wire to the bolts too. Edited February 19, 2010 by Ndnkobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fokus2tone Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Oh man, I just finished my bolt setup for 4 12s on Friday, dude PM me and Ill give you my number and all the details. Wasn't too hard but it can be if you do it alone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Destram Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Bolts work fine, just make sure you mark them to know which is positive and which is negative, and make sure they're a decent distance apart and really tight. Ring terminals would probably be the easiest way to connect the speaker wire to the bolts too. x2 It's not hard, and it's pretty cheap too. Quote 2006 BMW 325i My feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/77301-official-destram-feedback/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fokus2tone Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 It's not that its hard it can be demanding especially here in Wilson, NC when nobody around here has any ring terminals... lol... Had to go to advance in Raleigh just to get them, so I bought out their stock. 6 Packs of 10 in a pack. Used 4 packs for the full wiring. Wires on the subs have them, wires to the bolts, and wires from bolts to Amp. It's so nice to not have to worry bout your wires comin loose all the time. My stereo place here doesn't do a good job of wiring stuff and crimping so I went with the bolt idea. Works Great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojo42 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Would there be anything special I need to do to these bolts, like insulate them or anything incase they might flash. Never done a bolt set up b4 but I figured with a beast like the BTL 18" itd be safer to use bolts Quote 2012 Ford Ranger: Build comming soon! Kenwood DNX-6160 DC 175.4 2 sets of O2 AR63 3-way Comps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 (edited) no you wouldnt have to insulate them as long as they arent near any metal and your box moves around a lot you're safe, and i dont think you'd have to worry about any sparking or flashing. Just as long as you drill the bolt in and its firm in the box, slap your wire to it with the ring terminal on it and screw a nut onto the bolt to hold the wire in place, you should be all set. Edited February 20, 2010 by Ndnkobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogers Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 (edited) no you dont need any insulation... there is nothing in mdf to transfer current... unless that part of the box gets soaked for some reason... i use 5/16" hex head bolts, 5/16's wing nuts, a couple of flat washers, a couple of lock washers... i also have a lid from a storage tote that i cut pieces out of to make a beauty pannel behind the "terminals"... i use a 5/16's drill bit... mark and drill the holes... make sure its a good clean hole... then i just thread the bolt in... the mdf is soft so it pretty much cuts its own threads but i normally have to back it out a couple times to clean out debris... you will have to use a socket wrench to get the bolt through... this was from a previous build... notice how i painted a wing nut in black primer... that way i can tell which is positive and which is negative... also notice the "beauty pannel"... imo... it just makes things look nicer... and its just another detail to take pride in... although i did have people asking me if it was metal..haha... no its plastic painted in primer...lol Heres one i did the other day with bolts i had layin around... havent gotten a chance to make the plastic cover or get to the hardware store to get the wingnuts yet.... on this one i did a set of bolts for each voice coil... that way i dont have to take the woofer out to change the wiring configuration... at the moment ive got this hooked up to my house stereo for testing purposes... its not quite done... Edited February 20, 2010 by Rogers Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojo42 Posted February 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 Thanks for the help guys Quote 2012 Ford Ranger: Build comming soon! Kenwood DNX-6160 DC 175.4 2 sets of O2 AR63 3-way Comps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 good help here gave me some ideas too Quote REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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