Just a few general questions

[dwright27]

Panhard Bar - What exactly does it do and why is it important

Cantilever setup - whats the benefit or disadvantage of this versus a panhard etc.

Watts Link - how is this different from a 4 link, wishbone, triangulated link or even a 6 link etc.

Different Links - difference between 3 link, triangulated 3 link, triangulated 4 link, super pivot 4 link, 5 link, 6 link, trinagulated super pivot links, etc.

thanks guys in advance

[dwright27]

this is what im going for.

[n8ball2013]

this is what im going for.

as sexy as that is are you sure you want to get into a project like that? Its a ton of work. Which translates into the know how to do it yourself or paying a shop to do a ton of money to do it. Im not sure on the fords but on the chevys I'm fairly positive you have to move the firewall back to lay out on 24s. Be prepared to either invest a ton of time and money or a ton of money into it.

For your questions you can find most of those answers in wikipedia.

[dwright27]

as sexy as that is are you sure you want to get into a project like that? Its a ton of work. Which translates into the know how to do it yourself or paying a shop to do a ton of money to do it. Im not sure on the fords but on the chevys I'm fairly positive you have to move the firewall back to lay out on 24s. Be prepared to either invest a ton of time and money or a ton of money into it.

For your questions you can find most of those answers in wikipedia.

well, being as i have a great welder at my disposal, yes, im willing to get into this. ive been quoted $3000 for a local shop ( kinda local ) to bag it set-up for 4's without parts. and another $4000 to do a stock floor body drop .... pretty sure i can do that myself with the tutorials and how tos on the web.

nt sure if i have to tub the firewall or not .. ill look into it. i also have shaved emblems and handles and antenna. i know ekstensive built this truck as well.

link to more pictures http://www.streetsource.com/im/viewuser.aspx?id=LoDakotaRT

Edited March 9, 2010 by dwright27

[sully]

that truck is why my truck is still not done LOL, Ekstensive built it right before mine. That is a body drop with a 2 link/pan hard bar.

Your looking at 12-13k if you have that done right by the same people that built that one.

With a body drop you want a 2 link so you will not have the option to do side to side. Makes it ridgid and you won't have any flex or body roll. You can replace the pan hard bar with a watts link they do the same thing, except the watts link allows for zero left right motion of the rear end where the pan hard bar will have a slight left right motion durring travel. As for the cantilever setup you can go with that or just put the bags on the link bars, both are done for extra lift and better ride quality.

If you want more info on that truck and what it will take to lay out like that call Mitch at Ekstensive 281 442 1050

[LT.Smoke]

Damn D. That Shiz will look sick when you are done I cant wait to see it and hear it once your done

[sully]

and bring on the 2 link haters, people that aren't in the know immediately trash 2 links even though there is nothing wrong with running one. Even some stock heavy duty trucks come with 2 links so there is no reason we can't run them on bagged trucks too.

[n8ball2013]

well, being as i have a great welder at my disposal, yes, im willing to get into this. ive been quoted $3000 for a local shop ( kinda local ) to bag it set-up for 4's without parts. and another $4000 to do a stock floor body drop .... pretty sure i can do that myself with the tutorials and how tos on the web.

nt sure if i have to tub the firewall or not .. ill look into it. i also have shaved emblems and handles and antenna. i know ekstensive built this truck as well.

link to more pictures http://www.streetsource.com/im/viewuser.aspx?id=LoDakotaRT

Id honestly feel kinda sketchy with someone doing that much cutting and welding at that price dude. I know you are in GA and things are cheaper down there but its your suspension. I dont think id like a half assed job there you know what I mean? one thing that you can do is bag it yourself. Then do the little stuff to knock down the cost. I dont think bagging it is tough. I think the cost comes from the fabrication and the labor. Hacked up suspension work scares the shit out of me so I hope you do it right. I

[sully]

bag it yourself is cool, very few people can body drop a truck on their own the first time. Too much to handle, even most shops can't get a body drop right so it should go to a specialty shop.

Also on that truck if I remember right they had trouble with the AC blower motor kinda like they did on mine. The blower box needed to be notched and a new side was fabricated out of metal and then reassembled. No big deal for an experienced installer but a first timer could have trouble with it. The upper control arms are relocated and all new steering linkage is hand built, custom tubular control arms are built, the firewall and inner fenders are relocated and new ones are fabricated then all the electronics and misc stuff under the hood are relocated. The battery can go between the frame rails behind the front bumper or you can put it under the bed. I don't remember if they had to section the oil pan to shorten it for clearance.

Nobody can do everything needed to do it right for 4k and make enough money to keep the shop in business. Fabrication alone you will have a full time employee working a solid month or multiple employees a couple weeks to do everything. Call around to see what some of the major shops will charge for this job, I would guess you will get quotes from 10-15k start to finish for a bag and body drop.

[sully]

forgot about the hump in the transmission pan needed to get cut off and plated, it will save you a couple inches when you raise the engine up and should keep you from having to tub the floor and the cowl for the engine and transmission.