meter higher

[Maxim]

im sure you can get some 6 inch aero ports online somewhere..i seen them just gotta look and see if i can find them again

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-354

[fecupe2001]

Well, if you don´t want to spent money on sonotubes, you can always go to a printing company and ask them to give you their cardboards tubes, they are 8" tubes, i have a printing supplies company and all our products comes in this tubes, i use them for testing and works just great, after i´m done with the retuning, i just resine it a lot on the inside and that´s it. About the tuning, once again, it´s way easier with aeroports than a slot port, you just cut the lenght until the number starts going down on the meter, if you are looking to burp on the mids 50´s i would start with a 45 hz tuning and just cut down the lenght.

How much power are you gonna use?? for a 15" sub and mids 50´s , i would use between 2.5 c/f and 3 cubic feet if you are giving it a good power, but of course, it´s always easier to shrink a box than doing a new one, try to make the box as square as you can, i would do it 18 x 18 x 18 (internal measures) , you also can move it around the trunk to find the sweet spot, point the port and sub in other directions, etc etc.

After you finish doing all your testing, get some 45´s , a lot of resine, flares, duct tape on the subs surrounding, move your seats, close the a/c vents, open the glove, visors and all the funny stuff that can raise your score

Edited April 25, 2010 by fecupe2001

[chewie]

THE power im gonna be working with is sad.. hifonics brutux bxi2008d i will have strong electrical though. and will be wiring to .5 ohms..

if i can get sonotube in 7 inch thats the magic number i need i will start a 13 inches for a 40 hz tune.. then cut down at half inch increments till i find the sweet spot..

heres the bugger.. that 16 inch box height is a cunt hair away from being above windowline.

if i build the box 16hx16dx26w thats 2.8 cubes after displacement. and i will be able to test sub up sub forward. or sub back. and still be in the window line compliance. and will be able to use a 6 inch port

will start at 12 inches for a 40 hz tune and do the same work my way down.

Edited April 25, 2010 by chewie

[fecupe2001]

First of all, the brutus line can hold a 0.5 ohms burp?? are you sure isn´t gonna smoke??

Well, you have very little power, you defenitly need a bigger box than 2.8 c/f IMO, besides that, 7" or 8" it´s way to big for that small power, but you never know. I would start with a 6" port and cut down the lenght until the meter starts going down, after that, i would change to 7" port and repeat the process, if i scores better than the 6" then go to a 8" port, or, you can jump to 2 6" ports, i dunno what size of port would be better because once again, you have a very small power, that doesn´t mean you can´t get a very nice score.

About the box size, as i told you in my last post, it´s always better to shrink the box than making a mistake and start with a small box that you can´t get bigger later, i would get then 3.5 c/f before sub displacement, meaning, about 3.3 c/f and just start shrinking down the box, try something like 16 x 16 x 30 then...

Edited April 25, 2010 by fecupe2001

[chewie]

ive ran my old 06 brutus at .5..

after box rise it should be fine.

even if it smokes. i only paid 150 for it..

the woofer is a dc level 4 with level 5 coil and spiders.

Edited April 25, 2010 by chewie

[fecupe2001]

I haven´t played with a DC Audio, but it should score very nice, nice to know that about the brutus line, i was planning on using 2 strapped @ 0.5 ohms for a burp but was a little worried because readed somewhere that they smoke at that impedance; if you manage to get the impedance veryyy low i know you´ll get a very good score dude, remember to use a lot of resine, flares, 45´s , etc. Besides that, get the boot of the sub out, play with a lot of duct tape, box positioning, box direction and all the other stuff, and of course, lots of pics

When are you planning to start this project??

[chewie]

plannin on starting it as soon as i feel comfortable enough where i wont be chasing boxes. i know i will have to build a few.. thats the name of the game but somone on here. has to know if what i described above will remotely work.

im thinking im gonna stick with the 3.5 cubes. just use round port.. and try sub up and sub forward and sub back.

please somone tell me if im going the wrong direction with this.

i also plan on filling any bracing gaps/voids with great stuff foam..

i will also be buying at least one layer of deadner for the roof and back quarter panels. and gotta figure out a way to stop the rear hatch

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/stclairriverblaster/car%20audio/?action=view&current=DSCF0337.flv

the side windows also flex out about 1 inch and release a ton of pressure even with the windows down. but duct tape can fix that.

Edited April 25, 2010 by chewie

[fecupe2001]

Exactly! nice thinking, also, you can change the port to one side or the other side, that way, you can try 6 different directions with a single box, that rules!

Let´s wait for someone else to give some inputs...

[Boon]

1. Don't just guess your resonant frequency, get a termlab and find out what it is. 3hz off my peak was 6dB down in my old SPL car.

2. Sub up port up in that shape car. Port as far from the meter as you can get it. When you burp at your peak the woofer's excursion will be minimal (theoretically at least) and the port velocity will be maximum. The wave mostly comes from the port. You don't want a 'straight shot' to the meter, often you want the longest possible route to allow the wave to develop. Also allow for 'loading' the woofer and the port, you gain a lot by doing this. Not many cars are loud with the woofers forward. Many in fact are loudest with the woofer and port ~3" off the tailgate, then get 3 big guys to lean on the hatch

3. Use 1 6" aeroport, or an 8" if you have a badass sub like a DD 9515.

4. You can't fill voids with foam, it's illegal in Street B, if your car gets scrutinized suddenly you'll be in Super Street 1-2 against people with 40kw and 2 18's.

5. Don't just dive in and deaden the whole car. It can hurt your score and will lower your resonant frequency.

Get some termlab time and see what happens when you press on individual panels. If pushing on it when you burp gains then you'll probably gain a little by deadening it. Some panels will lose you dB.

[Mr. Darkjustice]

ive tried both the 2008 brutus and the 2010 brutus at .5 ohm before box rise before. neither got warm or went smokey. and chewie you paid 150 for a 2008? i dont recall this