chapo123 Posted June 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 im gonna try the nuts. im 90% sure its gonna work now. i have to wait until tommorow for results Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal? heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked. i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat 2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Lane Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 just grow a pair and solder them bitches up. OR do this. Drill 2 holes in your box, slide bolt through each hole. ring terminal on each side and silicone caulk it all up on the inside. Sorry that was brief pm me if you need a better explanation. x10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 If I dont have a distro block I use a bolt and nut with two washers and locktite.. strip a bunch of wire, wrap them together, wrap that around the bolt between the washers, then tighten it down a bunch and wrap black tape around, or use bigass heatshrink. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotloud555 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Is the sub still working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Honestly, based off what you're saying.... I'd say you move on from car audio. If you couldn't take that little fire as a learning experience, then I don't think you will. I caught my first car on fire because I wasn't taking the time to do things right and listen to people. This is even with everything in the car soldered. If you're too lazy to even solder the wires, your chances of catching your shit on fire are even greater. You saw how easy it is to make a mistake. Sometimes there aren't even reasons why things happen the way they do. I suggest doing it right or not even doing it at all. You'd have all those wires soldered up, heat shrinked and ziptied all proper and safe within an hour and a half..... including the time it takes to buy heat shrink, solder, and a soldering iron. I'm not trying to be a dick about the situation, but you should listen. It'll save you some time and money. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdblue Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Is the sub still working? he ran out to go hose down his trunk...haha jk man, just listen to these guys. dont use those damn things. what does your car do? move. a moving vehicle is constantly shaking and vibrating just going over bumps, then you add bass to the mix. I wouldnt be surprised at all if the wire nut created too much resistance by getting loose. Id never use wire nuts for any connection. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7jezuz7 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Just run direct, that's what I did and it's all Better now ! I used to have those little Black round things with the red and black tabs that push back down and it was a pain getting in there to do anything. Now I just unscrew from amp and take out the box. An Audio Technix 18" Strato on a Kicker KX120.2 My Youtube Bass Vids Updates When Possible... I've bought from JBurt09, OrionStang, bcpballer64, LoudNLow931, audioman21, and CJ18 from here (as refs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 ya....run the wires threw the port 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaNQuisH Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 ouch Currently: * Hybrid Audio Legathia 3-Way Active Front Stage * (2) Morel Ultimo 12's * (2) Arc Audio 1100.1 XDi v2 (Strapped @1ohm) * (1) Arc Audio 1200.6 * RF 360.3 DSP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chapo123 Posted June 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 distro block? thats a good ass idea! im about to go buy one Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal? heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked. i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat 2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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