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Can anyone help me !?!

i just bought a whole new rockford system , (2 - T1D212's) & (1500-1bdCP)

This might sounds really stupid , but i'm trying to keep it as "stock-looking" as possible .. so i didnt buy a head-unit..

I drive a 1996 ford tauras sho(wagon) is there any possible way of hooking the subs and amp into my stock headunit ..

I've heard of running your RCA's to the rear speakers , but obviously there has to be SOMETHING that runs to the head-unit ?

can someone please explain to me how to do that , if its even possible ! THANKS FELLA'S

google 'line output converter' but don't hi jack this thread please



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If you have enough power behind the signal, it won't matter if it is square or sine wave, the sine wave will rip a stiff spider loose from the basket if not loosened up. I have personally done it on several woofers. Yes the average run of the mill sub doesn't need break in, but a multi layer spider setup will need to be loosened up before taking the driver to isn't full potential. If you don't do this then be prepared to be removing the woofer from the enclosure and putting some epoxy around where the spider attaches to the basket.

what about the people who recone woofers during comps just to mount them and burp them with an ass ton of power? or do they just beef up the said weak points to prevent such things from happening? such as the spider joints to the basket? just curious

I can't speak for everyone, but in my own experience, I had one come loose, ca glued it, did a 3 sec burp, it came loose again, ca glued it, burped again, it came loose again, the same cycle about a dozen times cuz the spider was so damn stiff it keep ripping loose off the basket. You just hope for the best and fix it and burp and fix it again. That is really the only spot I have seen a fresh stiff spider come loose at the basket not at the cone.


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Holy shit dude that helps out alot i have been resechering everything little by little for about 2 years and man if i would have seen soemthing like this 2 years ago it would have made my life easier



Had an estimate of 6400 for an alpine/clarion setup dealer said it "should" hit around 160db with the custom boxes he was going to make for me..doubtful with so much area to move but, budget is way below that :( any ideas on cheaper brands for that kind of Spl setup? really didnt want to try any Boss or soundstorm, thinking Quantum figure around $150 per speaker "$1800 total" and $1700 to power it, first actual big setup for the van.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Sup guys,

Been doing a lot of audio work on my truck (2000 Chevy Silveraldo 1500)

I took out the stock speakers and installed some old-school Pioneer 6x9's in the front (which I'm changing out) just did these to get by, and Pioneer 6.5's in the back...which have an amp running too.

got the subs under the backseat...

I want to make this bitch loud as hell...

i plan on switchin the 10's out and puttin in 2 12's under the seat and 2 shallow 10's behind the seat...

I want to install 8inch mid-bass in the front doors, and tweeters all around. I see a lot of potential in her. Have a Kinetik HC1400 just sittin around I need to use,

Anyone have any reccomendations to make this mother loud?...I want clearity as well as loud

I am pretty good with fiberglass so I'll get the speakers and subs in first then, clean it up.



skittlez- the coolest most awsomeist person everDefination of the name

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  • 4 weeks later...

For my charging system (besides the upgraded alt) i bought 2 sounstream SCELL-1000 (1000 amp capsell) Would those be good to replace my stock battery on my jaguar as 2 of these fit in that spot perfectly or should i use a battery and then add these??

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  • 2 months later...

Thanks for the info!!!! REALLY HELPED OUT!!!! your a BEAST!!!


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  • 4 weeks later...

Bump for some updates. =]

I'm back in the swing of things at home so I can finally update this regularly as intended.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]

Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]


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