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Keeps goin into protect HELP! (really found THE PROBLEM this time pg 6)


Jared420

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Posted

i still think its the amp

How come? just suspicion or you have any ideas?

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

Posted

Ok I feel like I am just running in circles now. I realized that It seems to work when I play a song with "smooth" bass and turn it up after the bass is already hitting, such as thug motivation 101 or air forces like a constant bass that stays the same, I am able to turn it up as loud as I want to, this must explain my discovery at the very beginning that I was able to play test tones. If i crank it and try to start those songs or tones with it up already it cuts right out but I can turn it up after its hitting. Any punchy notes or changes in bass make it cut out does this mean anything to anyone? I am back to thinking it could be the amp.

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

Posted

the rca's could be touching metal or getting pinched when you push the deck into the dash is what im thinking

I thought this was very possible too until I tested it today with the headunit out of my dash looking at the rcas nothing touching no pinches in them, cuts out like I just said anything punchy or sudden changes, I can start off low with constant bass that doesnt change and turn it up but cant take the same song and start it loud to begin with.

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

Posted

and N8ball I know you want me to swap out my alt and I plan to next weekend when I have a bit more free time. I will test it just to make sure but I have had 0 voltage issues so far. So in the meantime I am still trying to rule out other things. Tomorrow I should be meeting up with a friend who has a line out converter so I am going to run my spare rcas from his converter to my amp just because its such easy access, its hooked up in his truck to his rear speakers so that should completly rule out my headunit if I run it off his music and everything.

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

Posted

and N8ball I know you want me to swap out my alt and I plan to next weekend when I have a bit more free time. I will test it just to make sure but I have had 0 voltage issues so far. So in the meantime I am still trying to rule out other things. Tomorrow I should be meeting up with a friend who has a line out converter so I am going to run my spare rcas from his converter to my amp just because its such easy access, its hooked up in his truck to his rear speakers so that should completly rule out my headunit if I run it off his music and everything.

honestly id do an amp swap first. its way easier than pulling an alt out.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Posted

Wish I could, I dont really have access to a good sized amp. None of my friends are into this stuff really I have one friend with a 12'' kenwood typhoon woofer on a kenwood 800something amp probably does like 500 watts at best, another friend with a kenwood 9013d amp says it does 900 rms Highly doubt it, and another one with a JL 500/1. Wouldnt trying to push my 4 subs hard make any of those amps go into protect? But will my idea about running my amp off my friends line out converter work? that will at least rule out my head unit and any electrical problem? If it works off his stuff that is, If it doesnt work off his then I guess that still leaves me with electrical amp and subs but if it works I can be pretty safe to say my problem is my hu or rcas i think

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

Posted

Ok so I have just realized the amp will play when my voltage is not above like 14 volts. Sometimes when I start my truck I start at 14.4-14.8 then when I get to the end of my road it will be in the low 13s then in a couple minutes of driving it works back to over 14. I noticed when it seems to play without cutting out my volts are in the 13s when I start the music the. Drops a little when I turn it up when it works it's way over 14 it cuts out the second I turn it up. This morning I played a song with punchy and changing frequencies alot worked fine when my volts were low cut out after I turned it down for a minute and got my voltage up I feel like I have finally made some progress I just don't know what this means any ideas?

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

Posted

Few Ideas...

Possibly alt regulator, false reading of volts?

Voltage reader in the amp is fried?

Parts inside replaced with inferior parts/different from factory spec and cant handle the higher voltage that your particular amp gives out after the power stage herby going into protect?

Transistors cant handle they're input voltage?

Just a few ideas... Open the amp and look for burns, shorts, or different components, particularly the transistors and mosfets.

I may be spouting shit, but just a few ideas :)

1988 Honda City E

  • Big 3 in 1/0
  • Venom 6x9
  • Venom 6.5 Components
  • Response 4x100 midz and highs amp
  • Fusion NV 2500.1: STOLEN
  • 2 x 12 inch fusion nv subs
  • 10 inch 5 doller subs in my doors

PM me if you want help with electrical

Posted

Few Ideas...

Possibly alt regulator, false reading of volts?

Voltage reader in the amp is fried?

Parts inside replaced with inferior parts/different from factory spec and cant handle the higher voltage that your particular amp gives out after the power stage herby going into protect?

Transistors cant handle they're input voltage?

Just a few ideas... Open the amp and look for burns, shorts, or different components, particularly the transistors and mosfets.

I may be spouting shit, but just a few ideas :)

No I appreciate the help man, from all of you. Some of that makes sense. I am yet to test my alternator but will this weekend when I have the time. Other than that, I happen to know something internal on my amp was replaced with something that was not original on the amp. I was told he did not have access to that specific part but he was going to research it and find replacements and I was told the new parts put in were even higher quality than before, I can go through our messages in dbrs ticket system and try to find exactly what part it was and exactly what he told me. I have periodically been updating DBR with the tests I am doing because not that I have asked yet but it sounds like if I want the amp shipped back there to be rechecked I will be expected to pay, this is why I am trying to be 100% positive its the amp and not something else so I shouldn't be responsible to pay another 80 bucks to ship it down there and back here again. It doesn't sound promising either way since He told me about 4 or 5 times "I tested it here at 1 ohm and it worked fine sounded very clean" and "you can ship it back here to have it retested but it doesnt sound like I will be able to duplicate the problem your having"

So since this problem directly relates to voltage I think its pretty safe to say my issue is either my alternator or my amp since I have checked all fuses grounds and power connections multiple times and everything seems to be very solid. everything is grounded to my frame which I drilled tapped and sanded.

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

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