Team_DC-Derrick Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 Wtf are you talkin about. Shit were comparing a l7 15 to an BL 18. I don't give a shit if its a suv, he's obviously doing something wrong...he should be louder hands down. At least twice the power and more cone area. you did realize that your comparing a L7 15 in the PROPER box, to a BL 18 in the WRONG box, and even if the BL is in a right box, a trunk car vs a suv, the suv will SOUND louder 95% of the time, unless you seal the 18 off from the trunk... *edit or ported through the rear deck i forgot to mention that... I know porting through the rear deck gets NASTY loud The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad4health Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 you did realize that your comparing a L7 15 in the PROPER box, to a BL 18 in the WRONG box, and even if the BL is in a right box, a trunk car vs a suv, the suv will SOUND louder 95% of the time, unless you seal the 18 off from the trunk... i swear i was just about to quote you saying that at least somebody knows what their talking about. second note: an i was reading that a L7 has more surface area then a regular speaker of the same size.....Class anybody know why? because of the square shape giving it around the same surface area of a what?? an 18 an a L7 is how many watts rms......1000 an how many watts rms id the BL?? 1000. and i havent seen many cars pull over 700-100 rms on a stock electrical. i bet the bass is loud when u 1st turn the car on, then gets a lil quieter....the stock alt might charge at 14.4 for the 1st coulple minutes then it will drop to 13.8 an stay there remember its a newer car they dont need 14.4 that often. and if the amp is rated at 14.4 which i kno it is then its not getting TRUE RMS anyways so maybe 700-1200 watt maybe. so like me an team dc derrick said b4 its the car an the box. i didnt think i would have to go through all this to get it though your heads but you guys on here talk sooo much shit it ridiculous soon as they see something they dont like or kno they call the person a dumbass or something http://www.youtube.com/user/bad4health?feature=mhw5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team_DC-Derrick Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 ok so today i took my box out and flipped it now it sits port and sub facing inwards the car..i get more front windshield flex,i actually feel a whole lot more air in the car BUT i still dont feel that hit that i know these subs can do.. should i get another hifonics of the same on and run one at each coil? no, you should build a better box thats not designed for the kicker and one that is more suited for the BL... The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tristan560 Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 *shakes head* by no means should the l7 be that much more impressive on half the power JUST because its an SUV.... <u>99 Jimmy SLT 4WD</u> Systemless. <u>99 Grand Prix GTP</u> DC XL 12 on 1.5k tuned lowwwwww. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
og407 Posted July 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 thanks allot tristan560 i know this thing can and will sound WAY better than the kicker but i need a new box design does anyone have any suggestions or dimensions i am willing to pay. and a port through the rear deck any pictures or ideas would be GREAT! thanks and i woul dlove to just go and tell audiotistics to build me a box but i REaLLY dont have 200+ bucks to just throw out like that so a new box design would be great!!! thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 Wow some of the miss information getting thrown around is such a joke... 7-1000wrms off stock electrical can easily be done...for instance... how about 3.5kwrms of a stock 105amp alt, with 3 batteries (2 small 1 big).... didn't drop below 12.6v.... or 1400wrms off an hc800 and a stock 90amp alt didn't drop below 13.6v or 1500wrms off a stock 105amp alt with an hc1400... didn't drop below 14v or 800wrms of a single spv35 with a 60amp alt... didn't drop below 14v... An 18" BL will dominate an L7 in every single aspect... from SQ, to low end, to high end, to excursion, to power handling... I'd put my 15" BL against an L7 on the same power anyday... Both in well designed boxes and both in the same car receiving the same power. I'd put my money on the BL taking more power for a burp aswell. Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawsen Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 1. That is not near enough airspace or port area for that sub 2. Set your gains with a DMM and if you have one, an oscope. 3. never wire a DVC sub on 2 separate amps. About 3 people have offered to design a box for you, yet you still ask if someone will? (they even asked for your contact info) GL 00' Nissan Xterra Always under construction :] HU: Pioneer DEH3100-UB Mids & Highs: Kicker DS Component Set & Crescendo tweeters Mids & Highs Amp: Rockford 150.2 Subwoofer: 2 DC Audio LV 4 18"s Subwoofer Amp: Hifonics Brutus 2005d you been hanging out with jeff and dustin with that green paint? its yellow so it has to be loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
og407 Posted July 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 ok so also with my stock EVERYTHING electrical.. your saying im only getting some not all my rms into my sub? damn that sucks im going to get a yellow top.. would that help out a BIT? and iraggi hopefully hopefully soon to come..idk i have a guy that wants to trade 3 sundown sa "8"... or another guy with 4 12 kicker cvx im kinda thinking those 12's would sound good in my car but idk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 Never wire a dvc sub on two amps? Huh... You can easily wire a woofer with two amp or 4 or 8 or however many you want as long as they are strapabled or have master/slave ability. Gain match or strap the amps... It's not that difficult... For a beginner yes.... for an experienced user no.... Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 ok so also with my stock EVERYTHING electrical.. your saying im only getting some not all my rms into my sub? damn that sucks im going to get a yellow top.. would that help out a BIT? and iraggi hopefully hopefully soon to come..idk i have a guy that wants to trade 3 sundown sa "8"... or another guy with 4 12 kicker cvx im kinda thinking those 12's would sound good in my car but idk? If you really wanna trade I have a 15" BL that would work alot better in your car... Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.