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just saying bro.

Edit:

dont think im on the smds nuts. cause im not id rather have a 4xl over an smd anyday, but just saying the xl is louder then the smd everyday of the week, in every box, with every ammount of power is absurd if you ask me.

i understand and im not taking any offense. im actually enjoying the discussion, im bored as shit over here lol.

but... if an XL on 3000w does the same number as an SMD on 10,000w, are they really the same? (just an example obviously)

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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Omg this is freakin stupid I've done and seen test were aa's were louder than dc and dd and I've done a test were the dc's were louder I can make any of the named brands beat each other in swap out test I know the boxes each sub brand likes and guess what they all like differnt size boxes and ports

Stop being stupid and go with the company you like best

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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Not to start anything....

BUT BASHING AA and THEIR PRODUCT by saying another woofer is better isnt what this forum is about.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and i respect that. But please for the sake of keepin this forum away from BASHING companies can we STOP with the "this VS.That" and get back on topic. IF NOT i will be forced to lock this thread

no one is saying any product is bad. but there is always something better. isnt that the sole point of this forum? to learn about products and builds and what makes you louder? i mean, we all know not to spend a shit ton of money on a JL W7 because we can get the same quality cheaper. that was useful info for everyone.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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well we all know some subs get louder than others. otherwise we would all be running cheap stuff. some subs are more efficient even at this high level. a split 4" coil is very heavy and not very efficient so the test results dont surprise me.

the only test i know of was done by a great competitor, not just some guy that "thought" he knew what he was doing. it wasnt a difference of a few DB of course, but every tenth helps.

feel free to not believe me. i realize it is just hearsay and i cant give the exact, needed, details of the test or even give proof that it happened. but i do see tons of people talking about the SMD like it was a sub forged by the gods. they have no testing results... no one seems to question it... :shrug:

Stepping in here to correct the ill informed, so here we go.

psssst.

If it was that great...why would we even waste our time doing the SMD? We would just copy an XL and call it a day right? It would be much cheaper to do...and a heck of a lot easier...we've got all the parts and the machines to do it...lol.

You also have absolutely no idea how the SMD works lol :). Did you by chance do the testing on a watt to watt basis? Taking notes of the voltage and current and plotting out the impedance graph? You do understand with that much motor strength and linearity that your impedance shift during play is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off from 'normal' (XL) SGLC designs right? Why would we even waste our time in bringing supergauss into the car audio world?

You also do not know that in a 'peaking' situation you are looking for a woofer that has LESS motor strength..something where the Qts shifts to .4 where you get your peak. That is why old SE's whipped the MT's in any street install...they simply peaked harder. The SMD is NOT AN SPL WOOFER...it isn't..it's not designed for it. It's very probable that something with 3 poly cotton spiders on it and a much lighter moving mass with a inherently weaker motor that will be proned to peaking..be louder in a 'burping' environment. That's not what the SMD is made for. It is made to beat the immortal piss out of for hours and hours on end with music and not break.

In a daily driving, musical scenario there is absolutely no other woofer on the market that can even come close to the SMD. There are no 2 vehicles that are same in install...you cannot take a pinto piston and slap it into a kia rio and then slap it into a hummer and then into an old school airplane and then you say nope that piston sucks...you put it in every scenario except the one it was designed for.

I'll put the SMD up against any other sub in a musical..daily driving..beat the immortal piss out of environment. We haven't had one break yet...not ONE...which will happen in due time because stupidity reigns supreme in these parts.

Hope this brings things into perspective for you. We've already been there....and done that...with RE almost what...10 years ago now?

Regards,

Edited by NDMstang65

Authorized Ascendant Audio Dealer! Message me for information.

If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough -Albert Einstein

"I have a plausible excuse for not liking you. And you know why."

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lol

Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell

Kenwood H/U

1/0 wire,

136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily

2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts

Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's

3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz

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Omg this is freakin stupid I've done and seen test were aa's were louder than dc and dd and I've done a test were the dc's were louder I can make any of the named brands beat each other in swap out test I know the boxes each sub brand likes and guess what they all like differnt size boxes and ports

Stop being stupid and go with the company you like best

x2 Even if someone does have 10,000 watts if the box is not correct or the best box for that particular sub AND the particular vehicle its being used in then of course its not going to perform as well as it could.

TDH FTW !!!

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lol call me barney but i am a guy that just loves beat, whether its DC Fi,etc. lol to be real im too much a noob to know any dif really besides hearing them in person. and to get bac on topic id love to just see some of these beasts in person. my XL 15 was the beefiest sub ive seen in person and cant imagine how big the level 6 and all the other beats are inperson. northern MN FTL but im a tryin lol. i say BIG BASS FTMFW nuff said hahahaaaa lol ok im out... :drinks:

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mayhem's could get louder than the SMD's just because of the higher sensitivity

My Car Audio Setup:

Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone)

Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab

Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1)

Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge

Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge

Alternator: Stock 90 amp

Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery

Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale

HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP

Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp

Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial

Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial

Home Audio Setup:

Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)

2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears.

Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985

Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver

Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993

Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me

I do free box designs if anyone is interested

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psssst.

If it was that great...why would we even waste our time doing the SMD? We would just copy an XL and call it a day right? It would be much cheaper to do...and a heck of a lot easier...we've got all the parts and the machines to do it...lol.

You also have absolutely no idea how the SMD works lol :). Did you by chance do the testing on a watt to watt basis? Taking notes of the voltage and current and plotting out the impedance graph? You do understand with that much motor strength and linearity that your impedance shift during play is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off from 'normal' (XL) SGLC designs right?

You also do not know that in a 'peaking' situation you are looking for a woofer that has LESS motor strength..something where the Qts shifts to .4 where you get your peak. That is why old SE's whipped the MT's in any street install...they simply peaked harder.

In a daily driving, musical scenario there is absolutely no other woofer on the market that can even come close to the SMD. Period.

i guess you missed the part where i said "i didnt do the testing". other than that, you have no idea what i know. i didnt insult you so i dont see why you need to insult me.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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