boomin Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 Well since I already have 7' of 1/0 and don't want to pull it out, could I just put a fuse and an extra 10' of 1/0 than another fuse and 1' of 1/0 to the battery? Using the fuse in the middle just to extend the wire? Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 use a distribution block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomin Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 OK sounds good if i go down that route. final question, will i be better off just forgetting about a 2nd bat, and upgrading to a yellow top or Kinetic under the hood? Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 i would still stick with a second battery, but you can upgrade the battery under the hood, it won't hurt a thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 Well since I already have 7' of 1/0 and don't want to pull it out, could I just put a fuse and an extra 10' of 1/0 than another fuse and 1' of 1/0 to the battery? Using the fuse in the middle just to extend the wire? yes that will work perfectly fine. you should fuse that 1/0 wire anyway if you are connecting a battery under the hood to another battery in the trunk final question, will i be better off just forgetting about a 2nd bat, and upgrading to a yellow top or Kinetic under the hood? just upgrade the front batt you dont need a 2nd batt on a stock alternator IMHO. i had a 70 amp alt on my car and i had dimming but i have HID's so its completely unnoticeable till the white dash lights dim a tad but i dont mind that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomin Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 What front battery should I get? I was told I should get a group 34 size, but theres so many brands idk what to go with anyone wanna help out? Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex K Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 go with xs batts. I got a 2400 in the front and its doin great. mechman.com has free shipping on them too. Quote 2006 Nissan Z Track. My Feedback Thread i used to think a band pass was something you were around your neck or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 What front battery should I get? I was told I should get a group 34 size, but theres so many brands idk what to go with anyone wanna help out? XS power in my opinion, great reviews from that company. i wouldnt use a group 34 unless your car uses one. call up the company and tell them your car info and they will tell you what battery they have that will fit your car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomin Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 I know for sure my car can fit a group 34 tops, nothing bigger. Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted August 11, 2010 Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 (edited) I know for sure my car can fit a group 34 tops, nothing bigger. As others have said get an AGM battery that fits (while everyone recommends XS which I also run, truth is get the best one you can afford). The main problem with going with an acid in the rear is those batteries do NOT like quick charge and discharge. When that happens they start to heat up and emit acid gas which is toxic. If the load is too high they can also boil over and smoke like crazy. You want your 1/0 run fused under the hood close to the front batt and IF you run a battery in the rear fused there as well. This way if the wire grounds out in the middle it will go dead. If you only fuse the one side the front fuse will blow and the rear battery will keep power going to the rest of the wire. If you don't run a rear battery, then 1 fuse is fine. The whole 4g thing is debatable. Will it work? Yes... But the reason you don't want to do it is because the run would have to be fused on either side of it which would cost more than 1 1/0 wire that will fit. Reason being if one of those 4g wires short out (4g melts down at less than half the amps 1/0 does) or one disconnects somehow that wire that is left connected will have way too many amps running through it, it will melt down, and could cause a fire. If it were me and I was short on loot... I would leave the stock battery where it is, get an AGM for the rear. Get 1/0 to run front to rear (one run no patch work bs) and use that left over 1/0 you have for runs to the amp, from fuses to battery, and if I had any left I would use it for big 2 (battery to frame and frame to alternator). Edited August 11, 2010 by UnderLoK Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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