Eagle Talon TSI FI BTL + DAT 2500.1

[rusty959]

Yea it will be on a DAT 2500.1, so you decide how much power it will actually be getting, lol.

Anyways, im in the process of doing some more building, still trying to decide how to make the port. Hopefully ill have it made before I have to leave for work tonight. And maybe a layer of fiberglass on.

[kirill007]

Yea it will be on a DAT 2500.1, so you decide how much power it will actually be getting, lol.

Anyways, im in the process of doing some more building, still trying to decide how to make the port. Hopefully ill have it made before I have to leave for work tonight. And maybe a layer of fiberglass on.

Yes, Reading > me.

I would do about 2.3cubes with 45sq inches of port area tuned to 34Hz.

And set the subsonic at 30hz.

That's what i would recommend.

[rusty959]

This was all done Thursday. Unfortunately where I am for work my internet messed up last night and I couldn't post them. But here we go.

As stated, all wood for this comes from my last box. So, here is the front piece marked out.

and cut and put in place(ish).

Last template was a bit small so I made a new one

Marked out and partially cut

And close enough

An old 17 cubic foot box makes a great workbench...

If anyone happens to remember my old mustang restoration thread... I still have it. Been doing some work but nothing worth making another post about.

The port only ended up being 6x6. A bit smaller than I would have liked but after several test and checks it seemed about the best I could do without having to have monster length. (and get it to fit under a notch in the back)

test fits-

Obviously a bit close to the wall but I meant for it to be that way

Box is getting pretty cut up...

Marked out for cut

I was originally going to mount the port behind the front, but decided not to because of the fact I forgot to subtract the .75 from the marks. But, it probably ended up being for the best anyways. Its exciting, on this build I am not following the measure twice cut once rule... Im more of measuring slightly maybe, then cut shit up. Mainly because so much will be fiberglass I figure it will all fall into place eventually somehow. Worked pretty well so far. Heck all lines Ive drawn have been with a 24inch square and I have been free-hand cutting everything with a circular saw. Pretty obvious when you look at the piece beside the seat compared to the front baffle but ill trim that up later.

As mentioned before the port is a bit long. only about 3 inches of clearance

Now trimmed for the full 6 inch width of the rest of the port.

From what ive calculated, the actual port will get me tuned to 35 hz or so depending on the final volume of the box (which I have roughly calculated to somewhere between 2.3-2.5) If the effective port is what I think it should be, my tuning should drop to 32 or so where I want it. Ill be curving stuff out a bit to further help with this.

At this point I work another day, but I should be back at it sunday. Should move pretty quickly into getting a layer of glass on it. Fun times.

[CheezyMane13]

Good shit bro...now get to glassing

[chevyman217]

Nice build man.

Moar Pics!

[Gotloud555]

I would have used blue tape..

[rusty959]

lol, more pics will come tomorrow. (or later today depending on how you look at it)

And yea blue tape isn't a bad idea. Ill probably ad some to the corners since you mentioned it, but I will have foil over the tape before I glass. Somehow. and the tape is pretty light on stickiness so im not too worried about peeling it off.

[chapo123]

damn port looks weird lol. i heard your supposed to have ports atleast 4in from any walls or subs?? and 35hz? thought you said 32 lol

[rusty959]

Uh, thanks? No there is no 4 inch magic number, depends on various stuff. That being said, mine is 6 inches away, as the pics and caption say. But yes, I did say 32hz. I also said 35 hz.

[rusty959]

Smaller pics this time hopefully it works better for people.

Started off the day by marking off where the box sat. This way I could drill through so I had a spot on the bottom to screw up perfectly. (not pictured)

Painted the port with a cote while it was off

Top on and screwed down

I wanted to wait as long as reasonably possible to cut out the sub hole but now is that latest point. (since the router can't pass by with the bottom attached and Im not sure if im going to take it all off or not)

My obviously home made circle guide and old router

Obviously not the best but it works.

Since I have access to a nice sandblaster for my mustang, I decided to make use of it and blast the parts that will be attached to fiberglass for hopefully a better bond. Its hard to see unless you notice that all the previous marks are gone.

This makes it a little bit more obvious. This is a closeup of regular mdf

And here is a part I sandblasted. Much more rough.

Glued and clamped down in places that needed clamped.

while it was drying... sammich time!

Yea you are hungry now...

Time for glass. More tape and foil laid down.

In place

And a layer of glass down in some of the corners. I didn't want to do too much cause I was practicing a bit with mixture. Plus the resin is fairly old now... But when I checked it a while after I had started it seemed to be doing alright so ill be back on it tomorrow