hzsogood Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Dayum.. How about you just make me a list of the best 5-10 bits I will need if you get some free time lol A kit would be nice, then I can add a few to it, if I need some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 This is what I use at my Dad's shop... This thing is a monster... Freud FT3000VCE 3 1/4HP Router Use this for smaller projects... Craftsman Professional 28084 2 1/4HP Router Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Just checking out Woodcraft now.. Little overwhelming considering theres 100s of bits. Are there general sets with the most commonly used, I cant find them.. Yet.. Another thing, when Tracing existing holes, Im gonna want a flush bit with a bearing, But like you said , to make notches for the carpet, obviously the bearing cant be on there, so what bit will I need to dig down that extra 1/8".. I see a bunch of flush bits with blades on the bottom of it, but without a bearing, doesnt it dog into the wood? Here is the ones i use. First is the down spiral cutting bit. This is used to cut the baffle as well as the cutout for the flush mount. On the flush mount, it will poke through a little to create a pocket in the sub baffle. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081560/31617/Freud-Downcut-Spiral-Router-Bit-12D-114CL-12SH-Freud-76108.aspx Roundover bits are to make all the edges of the box nice and purty ( side note ) Do not use these if you screw your boxes together. The bit will NOT like the screw heads http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2008063/WHITESIDE-Roundover-Bits.aspx Rabbet set is used for making a lip in wood. Like when having two existing baffles and you want to flush mount the sub. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001864/3420/Rabbet-Set-12-SH.aspx Flush trim bit is used for a few things. first would be making a second baffle over and existing cutout and wanting them to match in cutout size, but no flush mount. Also used to cut patterns using templates. Last thing to use it for it to trim any over hang on the edges of a box. For example, if you get everything together and the top overhangs a little bit, you can cut off the extra using the side of the box as a template http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004655/7487/Flush-TrimPattern-Cutting-Bit-12-D-x-112-CL-12-SH.aspx Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 There are a few others I use, but those are just for some trim and detail work I like to include in my box building. Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herrie_V Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 I always give good advise when it comes to woodworking tools since i work with it every day U all fail; http://www.festoolusa.com/products/routers/of-1400-eq-router-574267.html I know, i know... too expensive, but they work soo great haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hzsogood Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 (edited) Here is the ones i use. First is the down spiral cutting bit. This is used to cut the baffle as well as the cutout for the flush mount. On the flush mount, it will poke through a little to create a pocket in the sub baffle. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081560/31617/Freud-Downcut-Spiral-Router-Bit-12D-114CL-12SH-Freud-76108.aspx Roundover bits are to make all the edges of the box nice and purty ( side note ) Do not use these if you screw your boxes together. The bit will NOT like the screw heads http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2008063/WHITESIDE-Roundover-Bits.aspx Rabbet set is used for making a lip in wood. Like when having two existing baffles and you want to flush mount the sub. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001864/3420/Rabbet-Set-12-SH.aspx Flush trim bit is used for a few things. first would be making a second baffle over and existing cutout and wanting them to match in cutout size, but no flush mount. Also used to cut patterns using templates. Last thing to use it for it to trim any over hang on the edges of a box. For example, if you get everything together and the top overhangs a little bit, you can cut off the extra using the side of the box as a template http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004655/7487/Flush-TrimPattern-Cutting-Bit-12-D-x-112-CL-12-SH.aspx great list man, thank you! Questions.. The spiral bit seems like it would chew up on the wood on the flush baffle, unless the Jasper jig holds it perfectly in line? And what sizes should I go with for these, unless the ones you linked are the diameter, and depth sizes I would want Edited August 30, 2010 by comatoastedlush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Without a doubt Festool makes a kickass product, but unless it's in your hands everyday, it's not a cost effective solution for around most DIY builders or shops. I use the hell out of my router and in my years I haven't burned up enough routers to justify the cost of one Festool. Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 great list man, thank you! Questions.. The spiral bit seems like it would chew up on the wood on the flush baffle, unless the Jasper jig holds it perfectly in line? And what sizes should I go with for these, unless the ones you linked are the diameter, and depth sizes I would want The spiral works great. As you use your router more and more you will get a feel for speeds and movement to keep different kinds of woods from getting tearout. MDF is very forgiving. As far as size goes, you want bits that 1st match the router you get. I use mostly 1/2 shanks in my router. Depths will depend on the thickness you are working with. My spiral is 1 1/2 My rounder is a 3/4 for using MDF and my flush is a 2" for cutting 2 baffles in one pass. Bout the only thing I use my Rabbit for is plexi flush mounts to the box Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herrie_V Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Without a doubt Festool makes a kickass product, but unless it's in your hands everyday, it's not a cost effective solution for around most DIY builders or shops. I use the hell out of my router and in my years I haven't burned up enough routers to justify the cost of one Festool. Yeah Bill thats true i know, but he wants feedback, he gets feedback Im a festool-fanboy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hzsogood Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 (edited) Yeah Bill thats true i know, but he wants feedback, he gets feedback Im a festool-fanboy lol Ive used a few Frestool products.. Good , Hell yea.. Practical? lol not for me I have a 6 yr old Makita, and 2 yr old Craftsman circ saws with the thick shoe, and use them both on the job everyday , and they both work great, But I can still understand your fanboyism for frestool.. They make awesome stuff Edited August 30, 2010 by comatoastedlush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.