chapo123 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 (edited) well if you saw my vid you saw how underpowered it is.. and thats a cheap autotek amp wired at 2 ohms. 1500rms supposibly. and im already dropping down to 13.1.. with a good sundown 1200 thats rated at 12v i could actually be pushing some cheaper subs to their limit and have more cone area. and like i said im not dumping more cash into this car elc wise. Edited September 1, 2010 by chapo123 Quote Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal? heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked. i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat 2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 ...you DO know you dont have to power a woofer to its fullest right? just give the btl what you have now power-wise and then use that money to get electrical upgrades. pretty simple no? i dont know how you would be louder without "killing your car" got to agree...other wise all you are doing is having 2 potential shitty systems, instead of 1 that is way more then halfway decent. Theres lots you could do. buy a good battery, get a 2nd amp, put money towards and alternator, build a more efficient box there is a endless abundant of ideas to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 well if you saw my vid you saw how underpowered it is.. and thats a cheap autotek amp wired at 2 ohms. 1500rms supposibly. and im already dropping down to 13.1.. with a good sundown 1200 thats rated at 12v i could actually be pushing some cheaper subs to their limit and have more cone area. and like i said im not dumping more cash into this car elc wise. oh lets buy another amp to output 200rms more which i wont even notice? just save your money man jesus christ. if you want to waste money go ahead, i cant force you. you can spend that money on good things like an alternator ffs. boohoo that you drop to 13.1. i can drop to 12.0 on idle easily and i dont complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 well if you saw my vid you saw how underpowered it is.. and thats a cheap autotek amp wired at 2 ohms. 1500rms supposibly. and im already dropping down to 13.1.. with a good sundown 1200 thats rated at 12v i could actually be pushing some cheaper subs to their limit and have more cone area. and like i said im not dumping more cash into this car elc wise. Fact: More cone area does not always equal louder. Fact: Going to a smaller amp rated at a lower voltage does not equal louder.. Theres other things that effect power and loudness all together. voltage is just one, you have impedance rise, port area, box size, tuning. Theres so many variables. There are upgrades you can still do to your current car that will be compatable with new cars. Such as your wiring, batteries, boxes etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 Fact: More cone area does not always equal louder. Fact: Going to a smaller amp rated at a lower voltage does not equal louder.. Theres other things that effect power and loudness all together. voltage is just one, you have impedance rise, port area, box size, tuning. Theres so many variables. There are upgrades you can still do to your current car that will be compatable with new cars. Such as your wiring, batteries, boxes etc. thank you, was waiting for a higher up to post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chode69 Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 ...you DO know you dont have to power a woofer to its fullest right? just give the btl what you have now power-wise and then use that money to get electrical upgrades. pretty simple no? i dont know how you would be louder without "killing your car" totally agree with this statement...why waste 300 dollars when that could be put towards something actually useful LIKE YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM…..if your car needs more power they why waste money on subs when its ELECTRICAL that you need Quote NoFearX18 said: Nick will bang just about anything.....LMAO....pun intended On 4/13/2010 at 9:51 AM, meade916 said: i was like DAMN, Chode is hardcore! he makes james look like a friendly person LOL! trainman0978 said: I dont know who is worse with the buttholes Chode or Big P... Team Deadly Hertz / Team DC Audio / Team XS Power 2010 DC AUDIO MEMBER OF THE YEAR!!! DuckretaryFEAR THE DUCK Durangho Chodes Blowthrough Build Youtube vids Muh Wife Need DC Audio? Hit me up for pricing!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisbasshead Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 just stick with the btl. you already have an xs power 3400 in the back and you've done the big 3 and i believe that you have a 90 amp stock alternator so i would just upgrade the battery under the hood and see if that helps any. but if you're going to eventually get a different car like you said. then i would take the xs3400 out of the trunk and the big 3 wires and move it into your other car that you said you were gonna get. then if the car has a nice decent alternator (like 110 amp alt or higher) then you would just have to get an upgraded battery for under the hood and you should be covered for about 2000 watts rms. and the best thing i would do is make a new box that will get louder off of less power and get a battery under the hood and it should be fine on the power you're running to it. btw i can design you a box that would be really efficient and loud just send me a pm. Quote My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 actually the dayton audio titanic mkIII subs will hit a little bit harder than the type r's and i would say that they are almost an equivalent to the dc audio level 3's except the dayton titanic's sound cleaner and move alot more air in my opinion. um NO talk about installation based Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 I don't understand what you need !!! If you have a weak electrical system in your car for 3000 watts rms, just turn the gain down on the amp. A btl is rated for 2000 watts rms, so you don't NEED 3000 watts ! Unless all you need is high db numbers, but for listening pleasure 2000 watts should be fine ! Keep what you have and be careful with the gain. Dropping to 13v is not a problem for the car and the amp. lol (Maybe you need a vcm, or an mla module) Keep working on the new car, save money to eventually buy a good HO alt for this new car. Don't waste money on cheaper/smaller sub(s). It is not a smart move at all !!! Quote black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 vcm/mla do nothing but increase the voltage...only helpful if your alternator can support the load you are giving it. stock voltage playing music is 13v then an MLA at 15v will still drop to 13v because your alternator cant handle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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