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true, i will replace the front battery since its stock and 4 years old.

However, as soon as i see 10.X or my amp goes into protect, it shoots right back into the upper 13's without hesitation.

Will this alternator work? Ive heard horror stories with DC alts and trailblazer SS's

http://powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=142988&navsid1=20&navsid2=99

i dno about that alt not familiar with TB talk to Mayo3lt on here about that

Also, i have the gain all the way down... like, cant go any farther, lol

you have it all the way down and it drops that low? wow not good most likely your grounds

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true, i will replace the front battery since its stock and 4 years old.

However, as soon as i see 10.X or my amp goes into protect, it shoots right back into the upper 13's without hesitation.

Will this alternator work? Ive heard horror stories with DC alts and trailblazer SS's

http://powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=142988&navsid1=20&navsid2=99

i dno about that alt not familiar with TB talk to Mayo3lt on here about that

Also, i have the gain all the way down... like, cant go any farther, lol

you have it all the way down and it drops that low? wow not good most likely your grounds

ya its weird because its still loud as balls, I have the headunit settings all the way up for the woofer tho.

im just saying a rule of thumb would a 250 amp alt be sufficient? I havent heard anything bad about powerbastards, just wanting input on the amperage itself.

thanks for the help guys.

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to run 2k, If you got big 3 0 gauge and if you get a new stock battery in addition to your back battery a 250 amp alt should work just fine.

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get a mechman alt. should be about the same price and they are much more proven alts.

what HU do you have? make and model

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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Measure the output of the amp at full (if it doesn't cut out first) and see what it is doing. There would have to be some strange shit going on for it to be giving out full output (or maybe clipping) with the gain right down.

I'm pretty sure you should check if the amp is faulty before buying electrical upgrades.

EDIT: just saw that you said the woofer setting is right up on the HU, turn off all EQ and loud settings on the HU and re-set the gains. Then see if it is still doing it.

Edited by bassl0va

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Measure the output of the amp at full (if it doesn't cut out first) and see what it is doing. There would have to be some strange shit going on for it to be giving out full output (or maybe clipping) with the gain right down.

I'm pretty sure you should check if the amp is faulty before buying electrical upgrades.

EDIT: just saw that you said the woofer setting is right up on the HU, turn off all EQ and loud settings on the HU and re-set the gains. Then see if it is still doing it.

he could have an 8v preout and an amp that only goes down to 5v. that would cause clipping with the gain all the way down.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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get a mechman alt. should be about the same price and they are much more proven alts.

what HU do you have? make and model

Mechman's quote was 2/3 of DC and Iraggi for my car. I cant mention and numbers though

Edited by hdorre
On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

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haha box rise effects the ohms not the current the amp will still try to put out the max power it can at that ohm load that its seeing from where the gain is set

:orly3:

LMFAO.

Are you high?

You contradicted yourself in the same sentence.

Let me try to break this down.

box rise effects "ohms".... true.

The load or "ohms" directly affects how much "power" the amp is putting out.

if 1 box had hella rise, than the amp would not have been putting out as much power as a box with little to no rise. (because the load stays low)

lower freq will cause less rise in most cases.

your old box prob didnt play 30hz like this 1 does, so you wouldnt have been trying to play those notes at full tilt, now your new box wants to play down there, and you are doing it at full tilt.

which all = more current being sucked.

Physics is actually very simple.

2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz
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