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LOWEST FREQUENCY SUBS AVAILABLE!


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Posted

I would go for the driver with the most excursion.

No lows if you cant move air.

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Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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Posted

ppl say the Idmax is a killer for low bass and extension. i know a sub is only as good as the enclosure its in but it wouldn't hurt to enquire. Whats your views on Audiocontrol's Epicenter? My power is a Hifonics Brutus 2600.1.

Posted

Look at the FS of the sub the lower it is the better the sub will like the lows, although Box plays a huge factor as well, and every car will act different too.....

Minus Fs has absolutely nothing to do with frequency response.

:)

If you want something to hit "low"..then build a ported enclosure and tune properly. If you drop 1 octave in frequency range your displacement must raise 4 times to keep the same output. If the sub doesn't move...it is not going to be louder on lower frequencies.

Edit: Most consider certain subwoofers to be "low end monsters"..which is somewhat of a false reality...

What is really going on is a woofer with a floppy 2 spider suspension, and a monster coil that has an asinine amount of inductance as long as moving mass giving it an "Ultra low Fs". In reality this means it may have "huge low end"...but really because of the inductance of the coil it starts rolling off at 50-55Hz...which if it rolls off on the top end and the bottom end is VERY exaggerated in comparison. In turn, making people think they have a woofer that is a "low end monster"...but really they just have an inductance tank that misses the upper end of the spectrum...the bottom end will appear to be exaggerated, if the top end does not exist.

A subwoofer is designed to play 20-80Hz. That's it. If you want low end, tune your box to 25Hz...but keep in mind after 50Hz or so and beyond it is going to be absolutely worthless.

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Posted

ppl say the Idmax is a killer for low bass and extension. i know a sub is only as good as the enclosure its in but it wouldn't hurt to enquire. Whats your views on Audiocontrol's Epicenter? My power is a Hifonics Brutus 2600.1.

I'll agree with that. The best mainstream brand I can think of that will get you loud with your power is Memphis. I like the way the M3's sound with the small amounts of power they take. My buddy has 2 of the older M3 15"s on a JL1000.1 and that shit will make you throw up. I was told the IDMAX was one of the only things that could match them in output on small amounts of power. But I would say get some Mojo 12"s. They can be had cheap on different forums or craigslist. Oh and the epicenter sounds like a sub killer.

2012 Honda Accord

Radio: Pioneer AVH-4200NEX

Posted

Minus Fs has absolutely nothing to do with frequency response.

:)

If you want something to hit "low"..then build a ported enclosure and tune properly. If you drop 1 octave in frequency range your displacement must raise 4 times to keep the same output. If the sub doesn't move...it is not going to be louder on lower frequencies.

Edit: Most consider certain subwoofers to be "low end monsters"..which is somewhat of a false reality...

What is really going on is a woofer with a floppy 2 spider suspension, and a monster coil that has an asinine amount of inductance as long as moving mass giving it an "Ultra low Fs". In reality this means it may have "huge low end"...but really because of the inductance of the coil it starts rolling off at 50-55Hz...which if it rolls off on the top end and the bottom end is VERY exaggerated in comparison. In turn, making people think they have a woofer that is a "low end monster"...but really they just have an inductance tank that misses the upper end of the spectrum...the bottom end will appear to be exaggerated, if the top end does not exist.

A subwoofer is designed to play 20-80Hz. That's it. If you want low end, tune your box to 25Hz...but keep in mind after 50Hz or so and beyond it is going to be absolutely worthless.

I have to say listen to this guy he is very knowledgeable about woofers and how they work...THere are plenty of nice brands out there that will slam the lows but from my experience anything below like 25hz just shakes not really a lot of output IMO

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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build

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Posted

a guy I new had a truck tuned to 28 hertz but when you were inside the truck it was funny it sounded like it had no beat but outside it shook the shit out of everything around it and you could feel the bass as it approached just not inside

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fosgate p200 running planet audio 8" midbass drivers and super compression tweeters

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Posted

Forget the epicenter, it's not needed anymore with aftermarket head units.

But I know English Carribean people loves epicenter for long time !!!!!!!!!

With your amp (2600 watts at 1 ohm, I think so) you could try a BTL ot a Ascendant audio Mayhem in a box tuned to 30-32 hz.

Ask NdmStang for infos!...

Another solution is to buy 2 SSA Icon (2010 models) or even Xcon's in the same kind of box.

Good luck.

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers :  Audison AP 8.9 with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a sealed box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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