Cashdollar2009 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I'm probably going to be shut down real fast here, but whatever. Yes, I am 110% on the same page when the "recent topics" sections blows up with "Kicker L5 vs DC Level 5" and "Sony Xplod vs Sundown" shit. I agree, I understand, those bug the Hell out of me. But, my point to this thread is, that I do in fact find certain VS threads helpful occasionally. For example, I have seen a thread before in regards to someone deciding between a DC Level 4 and a Fi BL. The point of a VS thread here could be helpful as there is a big difference between a "stock" Fi BL, and a "fully loaded BL." Then, a lot of times people with have a Level 4 using Level 5 soft parts. Also, the Fi's have direct leads, which may be nice if you have had tinsel lead issues on the DC's and would feel more comfortable going in that direction. In each case, those could be the deciding factors that people may overlook, as dumb as it may seem... Another example. I know this one has occurred but I thought it was rather informative, was the Sundown SAZ-3000D VS Crescendo 3KWP. I never knew they were in the same build house. (at least the first batch.) Amp guts were brought into the argument. People who really knew amplifiers chimed in. This helped me really make up my mind on my Crescendo as opposed to running multiple Hifonics amps or settling with a nice 1500-2K amp. (budget) Another one, why should I go with an XS D3400 over a Kinetik HC2400? Legitimate facts, as well as opinions. I want to know why someone has chosen XS over Kinetik in a lot of cases? Can they find a better price? Is one more reliable than the other? What all Kinetiks have had swelling problems? Which would be better off of stock electrical? Not everyone, (Hell, no one but a select few on here who generally give this answer) can afford to go out and buy both of the products that they are asking about and tell the world which one was built better, which one has the better warranty, which one lasted longer, which one was more convenient to work with. This is a car audio forum, where the majority of us have played with car audio equipment before, actually, most of the products we talk about on here today we have played with. There is no better answer than that of someone who has really used the equipment before, whether it be either or even both on the subs/amplifiers/batteries/etc. Vast e-knowledge on products come in a close second. Talking out your ass with FTW FTW FTW FTW FTW answers when asking about a certain equipment brand only helps on occasion... Basically, I can understand locking a lot of the VS threads as they can get annoying, but possibly be a little more hesitant on the whole "We don't support your questions here, sorry for the inconvenience." I'm sure i'm not alone here. Nothing will probably ever be done in regards to my suggestions/rant but it's out there now. If anything, it was a nice vent session. Let me know your thoughts. Just trying to express mine in a nice way. Quote On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I agree with EVERYTHING you said. If subs, amps, or batteries have close enough specs, then they should be kept open. If one product is obviously better than the other (Kicker CVR vs AA Havoc), it should be locked. Recently in subwoofer comparison threads, people have been naming power (amps), enclosure size, tuning, and goal. Imo, if threads contain that and if subs are similar, they shouldn't be locked Quote On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000LaDe Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 my mom vs your mom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT.Smoke Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I'm probably going to be shut down real fast here, but whatever. Yes, I am 110% on the same page when the "recent topics" sections blows up with "Kicker L5 vs DC Level 5" and "Sony Xplod vs Sundown" shit. I agree, I understand, those bug the Hell out of me. But, my point to this thread is, that I do in fact find certain VS threads helpful occasionally. For example, I have seen a thread before in regards to someone deciding between a DC Level 4 and a Fi BL. The point of a VS thread here could be helpful as there is a big difference between a "stock" Fi BL, and a "fully loaded BL." Then, a lot of times people with have a Level 4 using Level 5 soft parts. Also, the Fi's have direct leads, which may be nice if you have had tinsel lead issues on the DC's and would feel more comfortable going in that direction. In each case, those could be the deciding factors that people may overlook, as dumb as it may seem... Another example. I know this one has occurred but I thought it was rather informative, was the Sundown SAZ-3000D VS Crescendo 3KWP. I never knew they were in the same build house. (at least the first batch.) Amp guts were brought into the argument. People who really knew amplifiers chimed in. This helped me really make up my mind on my Crescendo as opposed to running multiple Hifonics amps or settling with a nice 1500-2K amp. (budget) Another one, why should I go with an XS D3400 over a Kinetik HC2400? Legitimate facts, as well as opinions. I want to know why someone has chosen XS over Kinetik in a lot of cases? Can they find a better price? Is one more reliable than the other? What all Kinetiks have had swelling problems? Which would be better off of stock electrical? Not everyone, (Hell, no one but a select few on here who generally give this answer) can afford to go out and buy both of the products that they are asking about and tell the world which one was built better, which one has the better warranty, which one lasted longer, which one was more convenient to work with. This is a car audio forum, where the majority of us have played with car audio equipment before, actually, most of the products we talk about on here today we have played with. There is no better answer than that of someone who has really used the equipment before, whether it be either or even both on the subs/amplifiers/batteries/etc. Vast e-knowledge on products come in a close second. Talking out your ass with FTW FTW FTW FTW FTW answers when asking about a certain equipment brand only helps on occasion... Basically, I can understand locking a lot of the VS threads as they can get annoying, but possibly be a little more hesitant on the whole "We don't support your questions here, sorry for the inconvenience." I'm sure i'm not alone here. Nothing will probably ever be done in regards to my suggestions/rant but it's out there now. If anything, it was a nice vent session. Let me know your thoughts. Just trying to express mine in a nice way. We do it to keep the peace..You are totally justified in voicing your opinion so dont think im shutting you down I agree with EVERYTHING you said. If subs, amps, or batteries have close enough specs, then they should be kept open. If one product is obviously better than the other (Kicker CVR vs AA Havoc), it should be locked. Recently in subwoofer comparison threads, people have been naming power (amps), enclosure size, tuning, and goal. Imo, if threads contain that and if subs are similar, they shouldn't be locked We do this to keep the peace because no matter what products are being compared someone will come in and turn the topic to a bitch fest so its just best not to let it even begin because then it causes more headache for us MODS Quote Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000LaDe Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 my brother vs your brother. my brother will kick your brothers ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 my brother vs your brother. my brother will kick your brothers ass. Point taken. Quote On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepHittersMagazine Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 my mom vs your mom. lol Quote DeepHitters Website DeepHitters Facebook DeepHitters Youtube SuperBeast Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I think there needs to be some type of rules or guidelines for VS threads. Something along the line of whoever starts the thread needs to state specifics about what he/she wants to know between the 2 products in question. Not just hey whats better AA or DC. Maybe a set of basic questions to go along with the Products to help get a fair opinion. Example I actually started this one but SMD vs LVL 5 and now a list of questions for the OP to answer 1) Budget 2) Vehicle 3) Amps--how much power you plan on running 4) Electrical--what electrical upgrades are in the vehicle now/how many extra batteries and what Alts are being run 4) Space available for box Im sure there are many more questions that can be added but I think this would be a good start and would help get rid of brand nut hugging. With specific info about the build from the start it would be much easier to stay on topic and get the OP much better info about the products they are asking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedchild420 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Quote My POS Bass machine-2003 Hyundai Santa Fe on some shitty 22'sBed Liner Paint Job-Pioneer AVH 3200DVD4 DAD BD series 15's in a 4th Order (Bassheads ENT Design)4 Arc Audio XDI2000.1 for the woofers6 Cadence CVL68MBX 6.5's-Cadence CVL88MBX 8's-6 Cadence XT20 Supertweeters2 Arc Audio KS300.4's for mids and tweets1 Arc Audio ALD 10v Line DriverAll Audiotechnix Power wire1 DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator1 XS Power D3400 up front....6 XS Power D3100's in the rearAir Lift 1000 Bags in rear to help with suspensionIf your still reading this GFY....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I was just waiting for one of these. How appropriate it was you. lol Quote On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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