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Second Skin Audio

Need Help on what 10" subs to get and amps


JORDEN_23

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OP you want a sub that sounds good and is rebuild able?

I'm going to do something I never do and recommend a FI driver

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154cbbabf030c66/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0030_Q/product_overview.shopscript

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previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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so actually knowing what your talking about and not just following every one else is nuthugging? and I don't run one because my amp would have fried it and my current sub is louder, and alot rarer

What sub and amp are you using?

2000 GMC Sonoma

AQ20 FTMFW!

4 DC XL 15's

Cadence ZRS-C9

Infiniti Kappa 3.5's and 6x8's

Bravox 6.5 components

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I don't own a w7 jack ass I own a sub that makes your xl look like a midbass. so shove it up your ass. how about you actually take your own advice and pull rusty's dick out before you chole

Go back to kindergarten and learn to read. I never once said I own one smartass, but your too busy being a nutthugger to realize that.

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the subs i run cost alot more then w7s and perform better as well. I dont run them because what i have performs better. since all that you guys seem to care about is price, why arent all of you running parts express woofers becuase cost to performance ratio is through the roof there

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the subs i run cost alot more then w7s and perform better as well. I dont run them because what i have performs better. since all that you guys seem to care about is price, why arent all of you running parts express woofers becuase cost to performance ratio is through the roof there

yeah who actually cares about price in car audio, it's almost as bad as guns with cost

Go back to kindergarten and learn to read. I never once said I own one smartass, but your too busy being a nutthugger to realize that.

yep you got me I'm a nut hugger for something I don't even own :shrug:

What sub and amp are you using?

tight gapped shocker signature series 12's and just sold my DD z1 so no amp in right now

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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the subs i run cost alot more then w7s and perform better as well. I dont run them because what i have performs better. since all that you guys seem to care about is price, why arent all of you running parts express woofers becuase cost to performance ratio is through the roof there

Actually James you were the first to post in this thread recommending he buy some bullshit Hertz subs because they were "Cheaper and will get loud" if I am not mistaken so it looks like we are all trying to offer advice on sounding good and saving money at the same time.

2000 GMC Sonoma

AQ20 FTMFW!

4 DC XL 15's

Cadence ZRS-C9

Infiniti Kappa 3.5's and 6x8's

Bravox 6.5 components

DCSig.jpg

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Actually James you were the first to post in this thread recommending he buy some bullshit Hertz subs because they were "Cheaper and will get loud" if I am not mistaken so it looks like we are all trying to offer advice on sounding good and saving money at the same time.

do you actually know what hertz is? far from bullshit

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previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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For my first system I went to an audio shop. I wanted to hear different speakers and I wanted to know the basics. The shop owner even gave me a demo of his car.

I loved his Polk mm6500 speakers so I researched. Couldn't find a bad review. So I bought them because A)They fit in my factory location B)They were priced well C)They took alot of power (the more power I could give, the louder they would go and I wouldn't need extra speakers)

You say you want two 10" subs? That's a good choice for either car, the box will definitely fit. I pick subs based on power handling. For you I would buy subs based on what amp you get. If you get a 1-ohm 1000RMS amp then you can get two 10's at 500RMS a piece.

You will most likely amp your door speakers. I bought a Rockford Fosgate T500.1 for my sub (Perfect match), and a Rockford Fosgate T600.1 for my door speakers (Too much power but I was thinking of a rebuilt already) The audio shop sold these and Steve ran them, so they must have been good.

My headunit I also got from the shop. I wanted USB and AUX in the front and RCA's to run the amps.

All the wiring is on a need to buy basis. Worry about that later. (Don't buy a 4AWG wiring kit when you will need 0AWG)

You have to start somewhere so start here. You system will sound awesome to you. Then later you will want more and that is how you will find yourself learning how to upgrade. You knowledge is based on a need to rebuild basis. You need a point of reference.

Google it

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do you actually know what hertz is? far from bullshit

I know exactly what Hertz is but not because they make great subs thats for sure. Their comps are great no doubt about it but I am not worried about getting my feelings hurt by someone with Hertz subs.

2000 GMC Sonoma

AQ20 FTMFW!

4 DC XL 15's

Cadence ZRS-C9

Infiniti Kappa 3.5's and 6x8's

Bravox 6.5 components

DCSig.jpg

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the subs i run cost alot more then w7s and perform better as well. I dont run them because what i have performs better. since all that you guys seem to care about is price, why arent all of you running parts express woofers becuase cost to performance ratio is through the roof there

There's a happy medium in there where its not over priced but not cheaply built

Edit: spelling

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