kirill007 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Posted December 7, 2010 The most important thing to keep the amp alive at low ohms is the person behind the knobs and the person that sets up the amp. I could wire a amp down to redicoulisly low ohm loads without blowing it up and i can blow up a amp at it's rated ohmage and blow it up (So n you're case it was probably the guy's fault that the amp failed.) Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
keepinitloud Posted December 7, 2010 Report Posted December 7, 2010 Cascade Omega, IA Death Penalty, SSA Xcon if your smart with the gain knob, RD Alpha Max, Cactus Sounds MK1, Crossfire XS, American Bass HD's, Atomic APX if you can find em. Thats what I could think of off the top of my head the atomic apx is rated at 1000rms the atomic apxx is the one that doesnt have an rms just a peak of 30,000 in a burp for the 15 sub the atomic ele is 2000 rms 06 chrysler 300C Hemi one mmatts dreadnaut 15 powered by a planet audio vx 2200d fosgate p200 running planet audio 8" midbass drivers and super compression tweeters stock battery and a stinger spv44 Irragi 300 amp alternator big 3 1/0 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/55075-system-in-my-300c/page__view__findpost__p__763656__fromsearch__1
TeamHT Posted December 7, 2010 Report Posted December 7, 2010 The most important thing to keep the amp alive at low ohms is the person behind the knobs and the person that sets up the amp. I could wire a amp down to redicoulisly low ohm loads without blowing it up and i can blow up a amp at it's rated ohmage and blow it up (So n you're case it was probably the guy's fault that the amp failed.) But now you're quoting the exception, and not the rule. Take for instance, you're very conservative with the gains at a lower than recommended ohm, you're adjusting the amp to output what the electrical will safely cover. Thus showing the electrical is still the most important factor when wiring down. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
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