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2 smds 1 kicker warhorse?


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So should you guys stop posting since you have displayed no knowledge of how to scope your output and apparently glossed over the rest of the thread where I and multiple other users were telling the person to not run at 1 ohm and how his subwoofer VC configuration will not be optimal for the amplifer?

I didnt say you can or should run it full tilt at 1 ohm. I only said it is possible with proper attenuation. Given that you guys dont seem to realize this i'm going to say you guys shouldnt as you would probably fry the amp.

Here is the phone number for Kicker Tech Support, why dont you give them a call and see what they say about running the warhorse at 1 ohm per coil!!!! 405-624-8583

Make sure before you order your subs that you are completely familiar with how the warhorse powers your subs. To power 2 subs at 2 ohms per coil you will need to get Dual 1 ohm subs.

After my experience with my 2 SMDs and my Warhorse, you dont have enough airspace to get maximum performance out of the SMDs. I had mine in 3 different boxes. 5.5, 6,and 6.5 per sub after displacements. I did not have the room to go any bigger than the 6.5 per sub after displacements. If I had the room to do what I wanted to do, I would recommend giving the SMDs 7.5-8 ft3 after displacements. The 2 SMDs will take the 10k of the warhorse with NO problems.

I can tell you from what I have done myself that I have just switched from the 2 SMD 18s to 4 DC XL 15s. With basically the same airspace, the XLs (In my opnion) beat the SMDs hands down. Obviously cone area has alot to do with this, but for overall sound quality and performance I am happier with the XLs.

One other thing to think about before buying SMDs is if you decide you dont want them anymore, SMDs are not the easiest things to sell and you wont get anywhere close to your money back for them.

If you have any questions about he warhorse feel free to PM me.

hey CJ, the smd i own now is 2 ohms its wired down to 1 ohm tho, can't you just wire 2 ohm subs to 1 ohm them connect them into series to make them 2?

heres the link that proves this

im thinking about putting a 12 cubic box tuned to 28 hertz get 4 more d3100s and then later just keep adding to my electrical. i have read that u can adjust the wattage on this amp so first i'll have it down and then turn it up as the electrical gets better.

right now i have 2 optimas up from 1 xs d5100 in the back. and a DC 270xp alternator(2nd one will be added later on)

Here is your basic wiring guide for a warhorse

1 Sub- D2

2 Subs- D1/D4

4 Subs- D2

8 Subs- D1/D4

As you can see each time you double the amount of subs the ohm subs just flip flop from D2-D1/D4

When you are wiring 2 subs to the warhorse you have to look at the coils separately. If you have 2 coil 1s then they have D1s or D4s to achieve a final ohm load of 2 for that coil. You just do the same for coil 2.

yah i guess ima have to sell my D2 and get 2 D1s now. because the amp is here. and i was looking at the training video and it shows you how i think it is 4 2400 is equivalent 8 batteries so that means 4 xs d3100 is perfect.

did you sell ur d1s?

Yeah Ive sold both of mine. Just to give you an idea about how many batteries and alts you will need, I have a single Mechman 270 amp alt dedicated to charging my 8 XS D3400s (32000 watts of power handling). At full tilt my voltage drops to 12.5v at the batteries and 12v at the amp.

If you would be interested I have made a set of 6 input terminals for my Warhorse to help get more current to the amp and help with the voltage drop at the amp. I have yet to hook the last 3 inputs up, I just finished making a fuse block for 6 250amp fuses.

You can, you just end up with a 1 ohm load (turn the gains way down!), or a 4 ohm load..

You cannot run at 1 ohm load on the warhorse at all. The amp will not function. At 2 ohms per coil it will put of 10k and with 4 ohms per coil it will put of 5k.

So you got 1 alternator? because im thinking about putting my stock alternator back in and have my DC one. intotal they'll make 410 amps. and like 220-240 amps at idle (my stock alt is 140 amps DC one is 270)

I am running a dual alternator setup on my truck. I have my stock location 260 amp alt charging my front XS6500 and in cabin rear XS680, these batteries and alternator run my truck and my 2 4 channel amps. My dual alternator is a Mechman 270 (soon to be a 350 SMD Spec alt is on order), Which is charging my 8 XS 3400s which are in the bed of my truck and only have the warhorse hooked up to them.

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So should you guys stop posting since you have displayed no knowledge of how to scope your output and apparently glossed over the rest of the thread where I and multiple other users were telling the person to not run at 1 ohm and how his subwoofer VC configuration will not be optimal for the amplifer?

I didnt say you can or should run it full tilt at 1 ohm. I only said it is possible with proper attenuation. Given that you guys dont seem to realize this i'm going to say you guys shouldnt as you would probably fry the amp.

I know exactly how to scope a NORMAL AMP! If you have first hand knowledge of this amp and how it works then prove it. From my stand point it just looks like you are talking from whatever experience you have with your amp, which isnt a warhorse. If you ahve one then lets see the proof and lets see how you ran it at 1 ohm per coil!

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I dont see the Hype over the Warhorse personally.. You can get a much smaller amp that puts out more power and is more efficient for the same price

Im in no way bashing Kicker its just that is a BIG ass AMP...The actual amp itself not the power output

I hate the amp personally

Lol.

Its ok to hate something you personally don't understand how it works, or something that you will never have.

Grow up. You have no reasons why you hate it, cause you prolly do not have any facts.

Honest 1299 is a STEAL for that amp, if I had the extra money laying around, I would grab one up in a heartbeat.

all I'm going to do is laugh at you, you don't even know who I am.

Yeah, you would take a brand new car and "unbolt" the mufflers.

You don't look like nobody special? Or did you state any reasons behind why you "hate" that amp.

Go ahead big boy.

I didn't post the reasons because I didn't want to start a fight with you faggot nut huggers but here we go

it's not efficient at all when your not using it at full power

it's gigantic

it's ugly as hell

and it used to be ungodly expensive

they tried to copy fosgate and couldn't pull it off

you like the amp go ahead and use but don't do it under the guise of "I have the most efficent amp in the world" when you don't realize how much current it pulls at idle

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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I dont see the Hype over the Warhorse personally.. You can get a much smaller amp that puts out more power and is more efficient for the same price

Im in no way bashing Kicker its just that is a BIG ass AMP...The actual amp itself not the power output

I hate the amp personally

Lol.

Its ok to hate something you personally don't understand how it works, or something that you will never have.

Grow up. You have no reasons why you hate it, cause you prolly do not have any facts.

Honest 1299 is a STEAL for that amp, if I had the extra money laying around, I would grab one up in a heartbeat.

all I'm going to do is laugh at you, you don't even know who I am.

Yeah, you would take a brand new car and "unbolt" the mufflers.

You don't look like nobody special? Or did you state any reasons behind why you "hate" that amp.

Go ahead big boy.

I didn't post the reasons because I didn't want to start a fight with you faggot nut huggers but here we go

it's not efficient at all when your not using it at full power

it's gigantic

it's ugly as hell

and it used to be ungodly expensive

they tried to copy fosgate and couldn't pull it off

you like the amp go ahead and use but don't do it under the guise of "I have the most efficent amp in the world" when you don't realize how much current it pulls at idle

I aint nut hugging at all. And how is 1300 a bad price?

I mean come on, 10k watts is gonna pull current, you are not going to get a miracle amp. And how did they try to copy RF? Its totally different. That was a stupid statement.

Your argument is stupid. And I'm still trying to figure out who you are...

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I aint nut hugging at all. And how is 1300 a bad price?

I mean come on, 10k watts is gonna pull current, you are not going to get a miracle amp. And how did they try to copy RF? Its totally different. That was a stupid statement.

Your argument is stupid. And I'm still trying to figure out who you are...

It was never intended to be an argument, if you weren't so stupid you would have read that earlier, also I said they used to be at an ungodly price, once again your to stupid to read correctly. Not once have I ever seen you say anything constructive at all, it's either try to pretend you know what your talking about and troll the hell out of people and destroy threads or follow along with who you think is the smartest in the thread. form now on I'm just going to ignore your clueless ass so I wouldn't even respond because I won't.

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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So should you guys stop posting since you have displayed no knowledge of how to scope your output and apparently glossed over the rest of the thread where I and multiple other users were telling the person to not run at 1 ohm and how his subwoofer VC configuration will not be optimal for the amplifer?I didnt say you can or should run it full tilt at 1 ohm. I only said it is possible with proper attenuation. Given that you guys dont seem to realize this i'm going to say you guys shouldnt as you would probably fry the amp.

I know exactly how to scope a NORMAL AMP! If you have first hand knowledge of this amp and how it works then prove it. From my stand point it just looks like you are talking from whatever experience you have with your amp, which isnt a warhorse. If you ahve one then lets see the proof and lets see how you ran it at 1 ohm per coil!

Did I say I had access to information more than whats on the net? No. Have I ever, or will I ever run MY warhorse at 1 ohm? No. Do I have a warhorse? No. I will have a warhorse as soon as I can, though :)

As to operation at 1 ohm, I didnt say it is advisable nor that it would be good for the amp. Its just possible is all.

edit

Also for your education the amplifier should act (relatively given there is no "output stage") close to a normal amplifier on the output side allowing you to scope the output power an attenuate the input signal (gain) to keep from throwing full power of the amplifier at your subs 24/7/365. The volume knob on your head unit helps a bit too.

It was never intended to be an argument, if you weren't so stupid you would have read that earlier, also I said they used to be at an ungodly price, once again your to stupid to read correctly. Not once have I ever seen you say anything constructive at all, it's either try to pretend you know what your talking about and troll the hell out of people and destroy threads or follow along with who you think is the smartest in the thread. form now on I'm just going to ignore your clueless ass so I wouldn't even respond because I won't.

Still hiding behind the waggling finger. :popcorn:

edit

Out of curiosity, anyone got links to some warhorse testing at "less than full power" to back up their statements that it is inefficient at "less than full power"? I'm rather interested in the numbers.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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no I'm not, I am who I am and no need to say it over and over again. you want to ride my ass you can find out for your self. Like I said 4 times now, I didn't want to get in a pissing match with you guys, you are the ones who wouldn't drop it. So stfu already and stop clogging the thread up already

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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I aint nut hugging at all. And how is 1300 a bad price?

I mean come on, 10k watts is gonna pull current, you are not going to get a miracle amp. And how did they try to copy RF? Its totally different. That was a stupid statement.

Your argument is stupid. And I'm still trying to figure out who you are...

It was never intended to be an argument, if you weren't so stupid you would have read that earlier, also I said they used to be at an ungodly price, once again your to stupid to read correctly. Not once have I ever seen you say anything constructive at all, it's either try to pretend you know what your talking about and troll the hell out of people and destroy threads or follow along with who you think is the smartest in the thread. form now on I'm just going to ignore your clueless ass so I wouldn't even respond because I won't.

I'm clueless? Lol.

This whole argument is stupid cause of your a hater. Only way I can see. There wasn't any need for you to say, I hate this amp personally, without stating nothing else. That right there is asking for a fight.

I don't follow nobody, if somebody makes a good point, I'll agree, simple as that. If I think your wrong, I call you out. But regardless I don't "hate" on anybody.

But who are you? You still never stated that... You acted like your special? I'm still waiting to find that out.

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